3 Grand Days in Granada Spain
Dreams of Spain, are all made in Granada.
It’s a rare and beautiful thing when your hopes and expectations of what a place will “feel” like, actually materialize into reality.
I didn’t choose to visit Granada because I had any real experience with that particular city, but research seemed to conclude that it might be a nice place to visit. Little did I know, that Granada would prove to embody the experience of Spain as a whole, that I had hoped to obtain. Intangible to be sure, and different for everyone, but Granada was perfect to me.
Additionally, did I mention that it is customary in Granada ONLY, to provide a complimentary tapas when you order a drink? Yep, you heard me correctly, they just bring you something to eat, for FREE. That said, you don’t get to choose what it is, so it might be a bowl of snails, or it might be sardines in oil, but it’s all yummy, and part of the experience.
That lofty Airbnb life…
We stayed in the Albaicin neighborhood, in the central old town, which was the perfect home base, for easy walking access to all the sites. Not to mention, that if there was ever a place that you want to walk everywhere, lest you miss a single square inch of the city, it’s Granada.
Our Airbnb, while small, was super charming, and the host available to us whenever we called (we had trouble with the lock on the door). It had two lofted beds and a sleeper sofa, a cute little kitchen, and a rooftop patio that we GREATLY enjoyed. Not only did this place meet our needs in every way, but it was very cost-effective.
It’s a Flamenco way of life…
I’m a huge fan of Anthony Bourdain (R.I.P. Tony), and when planning a trip, I often refer back to episodes of one of his shows, for tips and inspiration. With that in mind, in his Granada episode, he visited a flamenco club set inside of a cave-dwelling, of which there are many surrounding Granada, and so I set my heart on doing the same.
Flamenco was born here, out of a cultural “blending'“ (people known as Gypsies) that were at the time, not well-liked. To escape some of the hostilities, they took to the hillsides, where they carved out whole communities into the rocky cliffs above the city. Gypsies are still prevalent in Granada, albeit more made up of young Europeans, even to this day.
Whatever the nationality, Granada is home to artists, musicians, and students, a recipe for simmering energy, which can be both seen and heard. Due to the landscape of Andalusia, which is very rocky and hilly, Granada sits in a bowl, providing natural amplification to the music being played by the gypsies throughout the day.
Gypsies and dancing aside, Granada is a vibrant place, filled with colors and pleasant sounds. The history is rich, and it’s reflected in the ornamentation of not just the historical sights and grand buildings, but also in the homes of the people that live there. Elaborate flower boxes, porcelain tiles or even plates, all show a love for the place they live.
The Alhambra
There’s very little I can say about the Alhambra which would do it any justice. The history is very interesting, but to see it in person…it’ll change you.
We were VERY lucky, we were able to scoop up some tickets by arriving at the entrance at the butt crack of dawn, but had I known, I would have booked well in advance of our arrival. We lucked out, but I wouldn’t advise anyone to try our method, rather, you should book several months in advance, and get an audio guide with your ticket, HERE.
Also, some people will tell you to budget 4 hours to tour it, but if you really want to see and appreciate it, take your time, it took us about 8 hours and I can’t imagine having done it in less.
About the Gypsies, a word of advice.
Unlike displaced people in America, you’ll encounter two distinctly different groups of transient people in Spain. Specific to Granada, are the gypsies. Gypsies are nomadic artists, seeking to earn income through the playing of music, selling jewelry, or telling of fortunes. The latter can happen without your consent, so if they grab your hand or arm, don’t hesitate to pull away with a firm “no thank you,” and keep moving, or they will demand that you pay them for the service they provide without your having asked for it. However, the jewelry is not bad quality (at least the jewelry that I purchased), and they are largely harmless.
The second group of people is more akin to what we call “panhandlers.” This group is much more aggressive than what we experience in the US. People from this group will come up to your table while eating at outdoor restaurants and shove a cup in your face. Typically the restaurant staff watches out for you, but sometimes you’re on your own. I’m not going to tell you what to do, in terms of giving them what they are pressing you for, but I am just telling you that it took me by surprise the first time it happened.
One evening in Granada
I distinctly recall an evening, probably our second day, sitting on the rooftop terrace of our Airbnb. The sun was starting to set, the colors of the city were vibrant, and birds were swooping in the air snatching up their dinners. Somewhere in the city, someone was playing a guitar and singing songs, and while I don’t know what they were singing about, I remember thinking that they must have been happy. This is how I will remember my time in Granada.