Relax in Hallstatt Austria
A Romantic Mountain Escape
When you’re short on time, it can be challenging to know in advance, where you will want to spend more time at places you’ve never been previously. Sometimes, the places that you think will be fun, aren’t, and sometimes the places you think you’ll get bored, surprise you. There was never a doubt in my mind that we wouldn’t enjoy the scenery of Hallstatt, but with it being so small and our overall trip to Austria so short, I gambled on the conservative side of spending just two days and a single night. Sadly, Hallstatt won the bet and we had to leave before we were ready, but for those reading this, feel free to make a better choice and stay a little longer.
Two Days in Hallstatt
Day One - We arrived in Hallstatt at around mid-day, got checked into our hotel, had a late lunch on the balcony of our room, and then did a preliminary walk around the main shopping area before everything closed for the evening, and then it was dinner and bed.
Day Two - Showers, breakfast, photo shoot, checkout, and then it was off to Vienna.
As a general rule of thumb, anytime you’re extremely limited on time in a place that you want to see as much out of as possible, take a tour from a local, it has been my experience that it doesn’t even really matter what kind of tour it is because the guides will be able to provide you with valuable information that you wouldn’t otherwise have as a tourist just breezing through. My husband and I love to have photos taken in the more picturesque places that we visit, and for us, our photo session was also a walking tour and historical education from the point of view of someone who had grown up there. In just an hour and a half, we were ushered around the town to the most iconic places it had to offer, all while learning the historical and cultural highlights of the place. At the end of our tour, we were armed not just with amazing photographic souvenirs, but also tips on shops and stops we should make, the information and navigation of which saved us valuable time due to the shortness of our stay.
Getting There
There are a couple of ways to get to the remote lake town of Hallstatt, but only one of these options will add to your overall experience. The first of these options is by bus or car, which will take you directly into Hallstatt, but if you’re willing to take on a little bit more of a hike, the other way with usher you into Hallstatt in an unforgettable manner.
Take the train to Hallstatt
From Salzburg, we boarded a morning train bound for Lake Hallstatt with only a general understanding of what might happen when we arrived at the end of our journey. The Hallstatt station is an unmanned platform across the lake from the actual town, where you then must board a ferry (at an additional cost) to reach Hallstatt. The ferry is called the Stephanie boat, and the schedule is synced with the train, so there's no need to swim for it. Be sure to have euros as the tickets must be purchased at the boat and the cost can fluctuate depending on the season, but two roundtrip tickets (for my husband and me) cost us about 21 euros.
Where to Stay
Hallstatt is very small and terraced (meaning that it expands up a hill with no roads), so while the distance from the city center is not a concern you should have, you need to keep in mind your uphill climb for possibly more cost-effective accommodations.
We lucked out HARD with our little hotel because the photos online didn’t do it justice. Located lakefront (the easiest walking level), there was a rustic charm on a scale that American boutique hotels can only aspire to (due to the relatively “new” nature of even the most historical of our structures in the US). Having a “higgledy-piggledy” floor plan, resulting from the connection of rooms and hallways of no fewer than three former salt processing homes, gave this hotel a unique character that would be nearly impossible to replicate.
What was this charming architectural wonder you ask? The Bräugasthof Hallstatt Hotel was also where we ate most of our meals due to most local restaurants in town (most of which are also attached to small hotels) were only offering service to their guests (I’ll come back to this detail). Fortunately, the vibe at the restaurant at our hotel was wonderful, the food was great, and the location couldn’t have been better.
Don’t expect a five-star luxury hotel, but I’ll make a case for places like this being even better. Very comfortable, this is a charming experience that you’ll never get at a more polished establishment. The guest's “front desk” was merely a chalkboard with guest's surnames and room numbers alongside skeleton keys hanging on hooks. Emphasizing the “story-worthy” nature of our stay, was an exchange I had while sitting in the lobby waiting for my husband. An elderly woman came near to where I was sitting and was watering the plants (given the seemingly small staff at the hotel, I made some assumptions about it being a family-run place and then extended that assumption to her) and I asked her if she was the owner of the hotel, she replied (in very broken English) that she was, “the grandmother of all,” made a sweeping motion with her hand, smiled, and then went about her business, I asked no further questions.
Why Visit
As I mentioned earlier in this post, restaurant service was limited to guests staying at the adjoining hotels, and it’s important to note the time at which we visited. Due to the ever-evolving travel restrictions resulting from the Covid-19 pandemic, Austria had just lifted a total ban on tourism just days prior t our arrival. For that reason, the number of tourism-based services was very low in an already very small town. That said, our guide informed us that in “normal times,” it’s not uncommon for this town of just 800 residents, to see thousands of visitors per day and that those visitors would often have to wait for hours in a queue to take pictures in the most iconic locations. Fortunately for us, while much was closed, we had no competition for views or service.
Everything about Hallstatt is charming; the swans on the lake, snow-capped mountain peaks, historic landmarks, and romantic vistas make for a dreamy escape from all the trappings of modern life. Take a visit to the Salt-Mine, or ice cave, or perhaps meander your way through the winding paths through town to visit the unique cemetery (with an even more interesting burial practice), or tour one of the two beautiful churches. No matter your plan, Hallstatt is a transporting place to spend time as a restful escape or romantic interlude.
