Canal Du Midi Cruise Vlog
Follow our experience of cruising on the Canal Du Midi by watching how we spent our time, or you can read more about it Here.
A week cruising from Carcassonne to Beziers.
Birthday Cruise on The Canal-Du-Midi
If the past few years have taught me anything, it’s to treasure the value of reaching milestones. Far too many milestones missed their moments in the sun due to the pandemic, and despite being a bit of an introvert, the significance did not escape my notice. To that end, there’s no occasion quite like turning 40, to take a trip and to share that experience with friends, so it is with this in mind that I planned our recent trip to southern France.
The Canal Du Midi
If you’re never heard of it, I (nor any French person) am totally not surprised, but this gem of a UNESCO site should go on your exploration list. Built during later half of the 17th century, this marvel of a man-made ingenuity, links the Atlantic ocean to that of the Mediterranean, through a series of locks and water bridges that is not only beautiful, but also caught the attention of one Thomas Jefferson, while he was serving as the newly minted United States envoy to France.
River Vs. Canal Cruise
I’ll be the first person to admit that the idea of a “cruise” elicits very different feelings and mental images for people. I, for one, have no desire to spend my precious vacation time trapped on a floating city at sea, with a bunch of people that consider a three hour excursion to a port town, a cultural experience. However, I’m NOTORIOUSLY judgy, so ignore me, and lean into the concept that getting out of the house is better than nothing at all.
That said, outside of ocean-liners, there are those amazing river cruises that we advertised on television, which seem like the perfect opposite of the aforementioned travel nightmares, at least until you go to book one. Most cruises, ocean or otherwise, are basically all inclusive style resorts, but on the water. You can expect to pay upwards of $2000 or more (much, much more), per person, for a week. If the money isn’t a deal-breaker, you can expect a romantic vacation on the water and you have my envy. However, if you don’t have thousands of dollars to spend, or you feel like this option might still be a little too “manufactured,” a canal cruise might be just the ticket for you!
Canals are man-made waterways for the purpose of transporting goods from city to city within a country (think of them as a water highway). Largely out of service for their original purpose, canals are now a lovely way for people to leisurely travel at a much slower pace. In fact, many of the barges which are now retired from service as cargo boats, have gotten a new lease on life as small cruise ships, and when I say “small,” I mean small. For reference, a river cruise may have anywhere from 50 to 200 passengers, but a canal cruise would be a maximum of roughly 20.
So, if you’re looking to unplug and relax, but still want to spend the majority of your time off of the boat, a canal cruise is the perfect balance, and comes in a wide array of options from “self-drive,” all the way up to luxury excursion.
Before it retired and became a cruise ship, this is what the boat we took looked like while it still hauled grain.
A Seven Day Barge Cruise on The Canal Du Midi
If you’re still reading this lengthy post, good job, you finally made it to the reason why you probably clicked on this post, to begin with.
My experience while researching this trip, was that helpful reviews of french canal travel were in short supply, and even fewer were available from English speakers or fellow Americans. Adding fuel to my research frustration (where advice was concerned), where the sheer number of people I encountered that attempted to assist me with second-hand accounts of the "canal" trips that their friends had taken, not realizing that they didn't understand the difference between a river and a canal.
First and foremost, the experiences and bodies of water are different... full stop.
Another worry I had before this trip was my concern about the looming threat of water-induced nausea. I (like many) suffer from the dreaded travel curse of motion sickness. Motion sickness in the car, sickness on the water, and sickness in the air, which I’ve largely learned how to mitigate for the short duration of time in which conditions may aggravate my symptoms, but a multi-day water excursion made me nervous. The possibility of feeling nauseated for a week, or sleeping away the majority of a week (due to side effects of motion sickness medication), was a HUGE deterrent, for me, toward any water-borne adventure that had been proposed in the past, but this trip felt different. Ultimately, I chose to gamble that the proximity to land afforded by being in a small canal on a very large boat would help me find my sea legs, and fortunately, the bet paid off. Not a single moment was spent nauseated, and absolutely nothing on the barge had to be secured for movement.
I can’t speak for every kind of boat on the canal, but those converted barges are wide, heavy, and going nowhere fast, so in the words of our captain (who spoke very little English) regarding the movement of our boat, “she is big, but she is heavy,” and I'm inclined to agree.
Day 1 of 7 - Boarding in Trebes, France
After spending a few days in Carcassonne, we took cabs the short distance to the nearby canal port town of Trebes. Charming, with a small entertainment district facing the water, Trebes is also a hub for the very popular boat rental company, LocaBoat. Equipped with modest amenities such as a decently sized grocery store, Trebes also served as our meetup point to board Le Haricot Noir. Family-owned, this boat is not part of a fleet and is not managed by any large rental company, it’s lovingly cared for and maintained by the daughter of the couple that converted it from a grain barge in the 1970s, into what it is today (take a video tour HERE.
The cruise option we had selected for our week-long journey on the canal was that of self-catering. We would have a captain and a deckhand for navigation, but we were on our own for meals. I (being a bit of a cook) was very much up in arms about not knowing what the kitchen would be like or what our options at the grocery store would be before boarding, so I hope this helps you.
The market was great and we found everything we would need there, so don’t worry about that. We purchased all of our basic supplies, plus salmon and wine, and brought everything on board with us. The kitchen was chef ready with everything necessary. The fridge is large, a more than adequate freezer, dishwasher, coffee maker, oven, and stove, not to mention pots, pans, and even a mixer!
We were a party of eight adults (four couples), so we only needed four of the six bedrooms and had plenty of space to spread out in the 90-footlong barge but it still didn’t take us long to get unpacked and settled in after our initial orientation upon boarding the ship during the late afternoon. After boarding, we did just a very short stint of navigation on the canal, to get through the three locks (known as an “eccluse” in French) before they shut down for the day, after which we moored at the edge of Trebes and then got back off of the boat to walk into the village for dinner that evening.
Day 2 of 7 - Trebes to Marseilette, France
Our first full day on the boat was cool and rainy, but the excitement of being at the start of our journey prevented our spirits from being dampened by the weather. The crew began navigating us shortly after breakfast, and we made our way to the tiny village of Marseilette, which while being cute, is very small. It appears to have had other shops at some point that were now vacant, but it still had a scenic cemetery, a village church with excellent views over the countryside, a little tiny little convenience shop, and one cafe/tavern/restaurant. We did a quick walk around, ate lunch at the cafe, and then spent the rest of the day on our warm and cozy boat as we chugged toward our end destination for the day. Meanwhile, below deck, we cooked a family-style dinner and toasted my birthday in our pajama pants on a boat in France… I’ll treasure that memory forever.
Day 3 of 7 - Marseilette to Homps, France
The navigation pace of the previous day had been rigorous to ensure our arrival in Homps by 2 pm (not easy to do on a boat as it turns out), because I had made reservations for a cab, and a photography team, to meet us at the marina and then to travel to a nearby town for a wine tasting. Fortunately, the sun was out and everything ran like clockwork.
(I’ll discuss the winery experience in a separate post.)
Sadly, our time in the actual town of Homps was super limited, which was unfortunate because, by all observable evidence, Homps is a charming town with multiple restaurants and other amenities.
Day 4 of 7 - Homps to Le Somail, France
With the most highly planned scheduled day of our trip now behind us, we determined to soak up every last ounce of relaxation that the canal had to offer us. Despite my insistence on being the first of our group to rise each morning, sipping hot coffee and eating a croissant on the top deck of the boat as the crew started the motor and once again resumed navigating us down the canal, was a truly zen-like experience for me. On our fourth day, however, we arrived in the postcard-perfect village of Le Somail. This village has art galleries, boutiques, an AMAZING used book store, and charm coming out of every nook and cranny. We decided to take the recommendation of our crew, however and did a tour of a nearby olive cooperative (which we enjoyed much more than we expected to) and we’re so glad that they suggested it to us. Also in this town, is a small, floating, market barge, on which we placed an order for croissants to be collected the next morning (as is the case with many of the markets in the small towns, bread must be ordered a day in advance). That evening, we had a very lively dinner at a restaurant in town, followed by more late-night shenanigans on the boat.
Day 5 of 7 - Le Somail to Capestang
After collecting our croissant order from the grocery barge, we once again fired up the engines and continued on our journey down the canal. We passed through the final lock that we would encounter during our cruise (a bittersweet reality), which also afforded us the chance to try our hand at the captain's wheel. I was the only soul brave enough to give it a go, but the result was a newly found appreciation for the job that our captain performs. Our deckhand, Estelle, when not working on other barges, lives on a converted barge that she owns with her husband and their two children, which was moored right outside of Capestang (her husband was on their top deck as we passed and greeted us and his wife as we passed). Capestang is a town much larger than any of the other villages we had encountered in days past and was also much less focused on the canal as a revenue source. We enjoyed the more lively “city” feel, however, we were there over a holiday in which most shops were closed. Again on the recommendation of our crew, we visited a restaurant that did not disappoint, although we did get lost in the dark while attempting to make our way back to the boat later that evening. A challenge of mooring in a different place every day is that you never get the opportunity to familiarize yourself with where your home base can be found.
Day 6 of 7 - Capestang to Beziers through the Malpas Tunnel
Today, we passed through the Malpas tunnel, which is a marvelous feat of engineering, but was more than a little nerve-wracking. The tunnel was blasted through solid rock and allows only a single ship at a time to pass. Fortunately for us, all smaller boats must give way to allow larger boats the priority, but it can be difficult to see who might already be in the tunnel when you approach it. After a brief sojourn off of the boat on the other side of the canal, we continued to Beziers. By far the biggest city we encountered, Beziers was both exciting and a little overwhelming given the size and with a much more ethnically diverse population than any other place we had encountered on the canal to that point. After the boat was moored, we marveled at the Fonseranes locks, which are a series of 9 locks that our poor crew would have had to traverse if we had opted for the longer 12-day cruise option. While some of our party utilized the e-bikes available to us on the boat, half of us opted to trek to the highest point of the city, where we toured the cathedral and then mused over our regret at having not rented the bikes as we sipped cold beers at a small cafe. Eventually, we arrived back at the boat and then made our way to a nearby restaurant for the final dinner of our week-long cruise.
Day 7 of 7 - Beziers to Colombiers, France
The final morning was a rush of packing as we traveled back a short distance to a small port town that we had passed the previous day. Let me tell you, the experience of this barge needing to turn around was no small task and one which many passersby also chose to stop and watch. Eventually, however, we covered the short distance and then were whisked off the boat as the dock would not allow us to stay but for just a very short time. We were deeply saddened at our choice to have booked the seven-day cruise because none of us was ready to leave. The experience of having spent a week on this boat, with this crew, with these friends, was truly the most fun travel experience I’ve ever had the privilege of experiencing.
Questions about something I didn’t cover, or questions about something you want more details about? Leave me a comment below!
Relax in Hallstatt Austria
A Romantic Mountain Escape
When you’re short on time, it can be challenging to know in advance, where you will want to spend more time at places you’ve never been previously. Sometimes, the places that you think will be fun, aren’t, and sometimes the places you think you’ll get bored, surprise you. There was never a doubt in my mind that we wouldn’t enjoy the scenery of Hallstatt, but with it being so small and our overall trip to Austria so short, I gambled on the conservative side of spending just two days and a single night. Sadly, Hallstatt won the bet and we had to leave before we were ready, but for those reading this, feel free to make a better choice and stay a little longer.
Two Days in Hallstatt
Day One - We arrived in Hallstatt at around mid-day, got checked into our hotel, had a late lunch on the balcony of our room, and then did a preliminary walk around the main shopping area before everything closed for the evening, and then it was dinner and bed.
Day Two - Showers, breakfast, photo shoot, checkout, and then it was off to Vienna.
As a general rule of thumb, anytime you’re extremely limited on time in a place that you want to see as much out of as possible, take a tour from a local, it has been my experience that it doesn’t even really matter what kind of tour it is because the guides will be able to provide you with valuable information that you wouldn’t otherwise have as a tourist just breezing through. My husband and I love to have photos taken in the more picturesque places that we visit, and for us, our photo session was also a walking tour and historical education from the point of view of someone who had grown up there. In just an hour and a half, we were ushered around the town to the most iconic places it had to offer, all while learning the historical and cultural highlights of the place. At the end of our tour, we were armed not just with amazing photographic souvenirs, but also tips on shops and stops we should make, the information and navigation of which saved us valuable time due to the shortness of our stay.
Getting There
There are a couple of ways to get to the remote lake town of Hallstatt, but only one of these options will add to your overall experience. The first of these options is by bus or car, which will take you directly into Hallstatt, but if you’re willing to take on a little bit more of a hike, the other way with usher you into Hallstatt in an unforgettable manner.
Take the train to Hallstatt
From Salzburg, we boarded a morning train bound for Lake Hallstatt with only a general understanding of what might happen when we arrived at the end of our journey. The Hallstatt station is an unmanned platform across the lake from the actual town, where you then must board a ferry (at an additional cost) to reach Hallstatt. The ferry is called the Stephanie boat, and the schedule is synced with the train, so there's no need to swim for it. Be sure to have euros as the tickets must be purchased at the boat and the cost can fluctuate depending on the season, but two roundtrip tickets (for my husband and me) cost us about 21 euros.
Where to Stay
Hallstatt is very small and terraced (meaning that it expands up a hill with no roads), so while the distance from the city center is not a concern you should have, you need to keep in mind your uphill climb for possibly more cost-effective accommodations.
We lucked out HARD with our little hotel because the photos online didn’t do it justice. Located lakefront (the easiest walking level), there was a rustic charm on a scale that American boutique hotels can only aspire to (due to the relatively “new” nature of even the most historical of our structures in the US). Having a “higgledy-piggledy” floor plan, resulting from the connection of rooms and hallways of no fewer than three former salt processing homes, gave this hotel a unique character that would be nearly impossible to replicate.
What was this charming architectural wonder you ask? The Bräugasthof Hallstatt Hotel was also where we ate most of our meals due to most local restaurants in town (most of which are also attached to small hotels) were only offering service to their guests (I’ll come back to this detail). Fortunately, the vibe at the restaurant at our hotel was wonderful, the food was great, and the location couldn’t have been better.
Don’t expect a five-star luxury hotel, but I’ll make a case for places like this being even better. Very comfortable, this is a charming experience that you’ll never get at a more polished establishment. The guest's “front desk” was merely a chalkboard with guest's surnames and room numbers alongside skeleton keys hanging on hooks. Emphasizing the “story-worthy” nature of our stay, was an exchange I had while sitting in the lobby waiting for my husband. An elderly woman came near to where I was sitting and was watering the plants (given the seemingly small staff at the hotel, I made some assumptions about it being a family-run place and then extended that assumption to her) and I asked her if she was the owner of the hotel, she replied (in very broken English) that she was, “the grandmother of all,” made a sweeping motion with her hand, smiled, and then went about her business, I asked no further questions.
Why Visit
As I mentioned earlier in this post, restaurant service was limited to guests staying at the adjoining hotels, and it’s important to note the time at which we visited. Due to the ever-evolving travel restrictions resulting from the Covid-19 pandemic, Austria had just lifted a total ban on tourism just days prior t our arrival. For that reason, the number of tourism-based services was very low in an already very small town. That said, our guide informed us that in “normal times,” it’s not uncommon for this town of just 800 residents, to see thousands of visitors per day and that those visitors would often have to wait for hours in a queue to take pictures in the most iconic locations. Fortunately for us, while much was closed, we had no competition for views or service.
Everything about Hallstatt is charming; the swans on the lake, snow-capped mountain peaks, historic landmarks, and romantic vistas make for a dreamy escape from all the trappings of modern life. Take a visit to the Salt-Mine, or ice cave, or perhaps meander your way through the winding paths through town to visit the unique cemetery (with an even more interesting burial practice), or tour one of the two beautiful churches. No matter your plan, Hallstatt is a transporting place to spend time as a restful escape or romantic interlude.
W Hotel Aspen - A Review
“A Little Place Called Aspen…” Part Two
If you read my previous post about our stay in Aspen (available HERE), this is the second installment and official review of our stay at the W Hotel in Aspen Village.
The W Hotel
I think a dream job for my husband and I both would be to visit and stay at hotels, at least hotels that put forth as much care and attention to detail as what Marriott does. From the moment we pulled up our car out front we were greeted with helpful, smiling staff, that volunteered information to questions that they knew to anticipate me asking, they make everything easy. Once inside the door, the front desk staff offered us chilled champagne and assistance with our luggage, and helped ease our transition from being “in transit” to “being on vacation.”
The Room
An advantage to loyalty member programs is the fact that when you hit certain milestones you receive hotel perks when available. In the case of this particular stay we were upgraded to a room with a “partial mountain view,” which in reality was just a peekaboo view above the roof line of the neighboring building, but sometimes can be a substantial improvement.
Outdoor Spaces
The reason for staying at the W Hotel is the combination of the rooftop and the physical proximity of the hotel to Aspen Village. The hotel offers two lovely rooftop common spaces, one offering pool/ hot tub and bar, and the other offering a more serene breakfast and cocktail environment. We made great use of the hot tub and ate breakfast in the fresh morning air each day of our stay and if afternoon treats are more your style, you’ll love the super cute little ice cream stand out front!
In conclusion
Aspen is a must and if you’ve got points, I recommend the W for quality and location but would still be open to staying elsewhere on future trips back.
Questions or Comments? Leave me a note.
A Weekend Escape To Springfield
Vacation Close To Home
When you don’t have a ton of time or can’t afford to go very far, consider a weekend in exotic southwest Missouri, more specifically, Springfield Missouri.
Where To Stay
Hands down the Vandivort is the place to stay for a great change of pace! For a full review of the Vandivort Hotel, see my other post HERE.
Where To Eat
One of the best parts of vacationing is eating at new places and Springfield has a fantastic mix of startups, established eateries, and everything in between.
Starting with breakfast, here are two great options worth checking out that fall on different ends of the ambiance spectrum.
Gailey’s Breakfast Cafe
Located downtown and across the street from the Vandivort, Gailey’s has traditional breakfast foods served up in a classic Americana diner, the coffee is good and biscuits are warm, but you might want to call ahead as the wait for a table can get pretty long.
2. Tea Bar & Bites
This place is as cute as a button and is tucked away in the charming Raintree neighborhood (not far from downtown by car). Despite a limited rotating menu, this place will NOT disappoint, but get there early as seating is limited and the pastry items sell out fast!
3. Rountree
Located at the intersection of Pickwick Avenue and Cherry Street is a collection of eateries and taverns so tasty that you may find yourself going back day after day. With at least eight different places to choose from, this is a great option for anyone wanting a variety of different things to eat ranging from kimchi fries to kombucha.
4. The Cow’s Pajamas
This mobile frozen treat vendor is cute as a button, and while they do move around, we paid them a visit at the Route 66 Food Truck Park which was definitely worth a stop on its own!
5. Cafe Cusco
This delightfully colorful Peruvian inspired eatery will have you feeling like you’re a jet setter!
What To-Do
Having been built since I finished college, I’d never taken the time to visit the Wonders of Wildlife on any of my return visits to Springfield, but this being more of a mini-vacation made it feel like the time to go.
In Closing
There are a thousand other little things I could suggest, but at the end of the day, I have to bring this post to a close. With this in mind please feel free to ask questions in the comments below or shoot me an email!
Oban The Gateway To The Isles
Tour Argyll and Spend Time By The Sea
If you’re planning to do a semi thorough tour of the Highlands, a visit to the county of Argyle should be on your list for several reasons.
An Itinerary
We chose to rent a car and drive from Edinburgh to Oban and make a few roadsides stops along the way, but we didn’t anticipate the slowness of the roads in comparison with the more direct interstate system that we have in the United States. Knowing what I know now, here is what I would suggest as a better alternative:
Pick up your rental car in Edinburgh first thing in the morning
Stop at Helix Park and check out the Kelpies
Stop in Stirling and tour Stirling Castle (which closes in the late afternoon)
Drive through The Trossachs National Park and catch a glimpse of Loch Lomond
Then call it quits for the day and hunker down in a nice little B&B for the night
Continue the journey the next morning and make your first stop at Inveraray Castle and take a tour of the home still occupied by the Duke and Duchess of Argyll
Complete the remaining distance to Oban during the daylight and in time for dinner (things close early there).
Plan to use Oban as a base for island hopping, and be sure to book your island ferry tours WELL in advance of your arrival. The only island we were able to book standby tickets for was the Isle of Mull, but we waited until the day before we wanted to go, to attempt booking the tickets. I recommend that you look into visiting:
Mull
Iona
Staffa
Where To Stay
There is no shortage of B&B’s or other small hotels here, but you’ll not find much in the way of larger chains. However, the Oban Bay Hotel is part of a small, local chain of hotels, and is ideally located on the water’s edge. Dripping with Victorian charm, the hotel common areas had been recently renovated to a very comfortable and charming standard, while other areas of the hotel were still closed (as of the time that we stayed in May of 2019) for renovation. That said, while we were very excited that they offered a small number of family-style rooms that were a lifesaver on our budget, the room was very basic, the carpet was threadbare, and the water in the shower was either ice cold or melt your face off hot. I would suspect that room renovation was probably on the “to-do” list for them and if so, would stay here again.
What To Do in Oban
As mentioned previously, there’s not a whole lot to do here, and most of the shops were very touristy. However the town is not without charm, and we never did take advantage of two of its main attractions. The most famous being McCaig’s Tower, an unfinished project resembling a Roman Colosseum. The second attraction, which we didn’t even realize was there until we were about to leave, was Dunollie Castle, which is a castle ruin overlooking the water and is open to the public.
We did, however, pay a visit to the Oban Distillery, which is both interesting and relatively unique among the plethora of distilleries in Scotland.
The Show Must Go On
Our time in Oban marked the half-way point of our time in Scotland, so there’s lots more to come as we continue our journey north, up the west coast of the Scottish Highlands.
Questions or Comments? Leave me a note below.
A Little SoHo in SoMo
The Vandivort Hotel Does Springfield Proud
Whatever you might think about southwest Missouri or towns like it, first-class boutique hotels probably don’t factor into your opinion, that might need to change.
With many folks making heavy revisions to their summer travel plans such as replacing a trip to Greece with something closer to home, now is the time to take a look at cities that have largely flown below the travel seekers radar. Springfield Missouri, home of Missouri State University, the birthplace of the comedic geniuses behind the viral “Instagram Husbands” video, and headquarters of Bass Pro is also home to a first-class boutique hotel called the “Vandivort.”
Boutique or Bust
2020 has been a year of disappointment and much anxiety for a lot of folks and even if illness or other financial concerns haven’t factored into your daily life, the general stress of changing regulations, social limitations and political upheaval has us all feeling a need to escape our everyday routine. If you also had your summer plans dashed by COVID19, it's still possible to take a break and get out of the house, in a place you might not have previously considered.
My husband and I love to travel and typically it's to places like Paris and New York, but sometimes a night in a nice hotel is just what the doctor ordered to scratch that "travel itch.” Just a short three-hour drive from Kansas City is the third-largest city in Missouri and what I would argue is the best boutique hotel in the state.
My Hotel Review
An issue I have with many hotels is that often the lobbies and common areas are beautiful and welcoming, but then you enter your room (queue the wah-wah trombones). Generic carpet, generic wall art, bed linens that feel like they are intended to last for the long haul, and is entirely devoid of the charm seen at the hotel entrance.
The Vandivort is different, it’s been thoughtfully appointed from top to bottom and from the inside out. The flooring and lighting fixtures are designer quality, and the decoration is carefully curated. Two buildings make up the entirety of the hotel, the original building which houses “The Order,” the in-house restaurant, the main lobby, and a series of bathrooms that have a surprising life of their own.
The second building referred to as “V2,” is a new construction building that was built to the same level of charm and high-quality finish of the original and historical main hotel. The bonus space in V2 is a beautiful rooftop cocktail bar known as “Vantage.”
Having stayed three times at the Vandivort, twice in the original building, and once at V2, I’ve had the opportunity to experience three different kinds of rooms from different price points. I can say without hesitation that regardless of the room, you’ll receive a quality room with first-rate amenities. The one thing worth noting, which is in no way a criticism of the hotel, is that the location of the hotel is in the heart of downtown Springfield and is near nightlife, so be prepared for a moderate amount of noise depending on the night you stay.
Vantage Rooftop Lounge
#Vandivortbathroomselfie
As I mentioned above, the restrooms located in the main hotel lobby have something special worth mentioning. Intended or not, these individual bathroom pods have PERFECT selfie lighting which has morphed into a “must do” when visiting the Vandivort!
Big City Dreams
Don’t get me wrong, I love coming to Springfield and reconnecting with my college days, but the Vandivort is a higher class experience than what you’ll find anywhere else in Springfield. So, if you’re itching to go to New York but don’t have the time or budget to get that far, try a visit to Springfield! Stay tuned for my post about suggested things to do during your stay.
Questions or Comments? Leave me a note below!
High Tea Fit For Royalty
The Goring Hotel
On our most recent visit to the United Kingdom, we found ourselves with 24 hours in London that also coincided with my birthday. With a desire to capitalize on the occasion, we chose to celebrate with a traditional High Tea service, but the question of “where” resulted in hours of reading TripAdvisor reviews as well as other travel blogs, to try and find a place not overrun with Instagramers and fellow tourists. Ultimately, I discovered The Goring Hotel, which perfectly fulfilled my birthday wish.
Searches By A Self-Loathing Tourist
When traveling abroad, there’s a certain level of “tourist stench" which can’t be easily escaped by American travelers. We're typically larger, louder, and for a variety of reasons, showing our teeth. However, careful planning can help to mitigate a certain amount of our "cliche" behavior and provide those of us that are aware of our "presence," a more authentic experience.
With a desire for a tourist-free, high-class birthday tea, several places rose to the surface in terms of popularity among travel bloggers and Tripadvisor reviewers. Fortunately, it quickly occurred to me that I was taking these suggestions from the same people I was wanting to avoid and that I would need to broaden my search. Changing gears, I decided to research significant places of business to the royal family and as a result, found options largely unmentioned in my previous searches. Eventually, I made my way through the list to The Goring Hotel and it was love at first click.
“The closest hotel to Buckingham Palace, The Goring has been a firm Royal favorite for many years, since it first opened its doors. The coronations of George VI and Her Majesty The Queen saw the hotel filled with royalty attending these great occasions from all over the world. The Queen Mother also famously enjoyed Eggs Drumkilbo – a lobster and egg-based dish that remains one of the most popular dishes in The Dining Room.
In 1990, George Goring accepted an O.B.E. from Her Majesty The Queen at Buckingham Palace for ‘services to the hotel industry’. This was followed by the appointment of a Royal Warrant to The Goring in 2013 - the only hotel to have been awarded a Royal Warrant for hospitality services. Royal Warrants of Appointment are a mark of recognition to those who supply goods or services to the Households of Her Majesty The Queen, His Royal Highness The Duke of Edinburgh or His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales. “
If having the warrant wasn’t cool enough, it’s also the hotel used by Kate Middleton (see HERE). Moral of the story is that if it’s good enough for royalty it’s good enough for me ;)
What To Expect
After choosing where I wanted to go, I turned my attention to details such as what the ideal time for tea is, what the dress code was, and if there was a set length of time per reservation.
Details to Know:
High Tea traditionally starts at 4 pm
Most high-end establishments (including The Goring) do have a dress code
Men are required to wear a sport coat or dinner jacket
No shorts or jeans
Reservations are 1.5 hours in length
Make your reservations in ADVANCE
High tea isn’t an inexpensive activity, and the prices typically vary by location and then there’s usually a range of tea service options. Our service was on the upper end of the spectrum, but the quality was worth every penny of the $70 price (per person) tag.
Happy Birthday to Me!
We had such an amazing experience during our time at The Goring, and despite the lack of photos (because this really wasn’t a place to act like a tourist), it was an absolute highlight of our time in London!
Questions or Comments? Leave me a note below.
Five Days in Hoi An Vietnam
Some people take vacations for relaxation, while others (like myself) attempt to fill every waking second with activities in foreign places, for fear of missing out on something life-changing. Five days in Hoi An is the cure to being busy.
Planning Your Stay
While planning our time in Vietnam, the advice I found regarding the recommended amount of time to spend there varied wildly. What was consistent, however, was that if you wanted to have tailoring done while there, you should stay AT LEAST three days, which was ultimately proven to be sound advice.
That said, the first third of our trip was shaping up to be pretty busy, and had us moving locations every third night, so we decided to embrace the essence of what Hoi An was touted to be (a small fishing and beach town) and slow down for an extended stay of five days.
Getting From Hanoi to Hoi An
Normally, avid train travelers we decided to maximize our time by flying from Hanoi (in the North) to Danang (Central coastal, and the nearest airport to Hoi An), as the difference in time between traveling by train or air was more than eight hours difference. Adding to the advantage of flight, was the relatively low cost of just $60, making the travel time saved well worth the price.
After a short one and a half hour flight, we arrived at the Danang airport where we charted a private car (from one of the authorized services within the airport) to drive us the 40 minutes from Danang to Hoi An, as well as for the return service at the end of our time there. Without a doubt, we paid more to do it this way (it cost us about $80), but we appreciated the ease of having door to door service, as well as the relative security of the arrangement.
The ride from Danang was very pleasant, being almost entirely along the coast, but left us feeling good about our choice not to spend time in Danang itself, which by all appearances had a very "generic" feel from what we observed from the car. However, while I was unable to capture a quality image myself, I’ve reposted an image of an amazing bridge we saw from a distance, known as the Dragon Bridge, for obvious reasons.
Little Hoi An Hotel & Spa
We LOVED our time at this hotel, and we would stay here again for multiple reasons. There’s no shortage or lack in variety of accommodations here, but this little hotel won the day by having the BEST location, and value for money (we paid about $90 per night). It’s not a five star “western” hotel, but it’s very comfortable, very cute, and has amenities such as daily laundry service, a full-service SPA, pool, transportation to a private beach, and a great restaurant on site.
Speaking of the spa, it took us about 30 seconds after check-in to decide that we wanted to make a spa appointment. In reality, the hotel is SO much nicer than we had expected from the website and pictures, so we jumped at the offer of a two-hour couples massage with facials and full body scrubs for just $70 (yep, the total for two people), and it was magical.
The Service
Among the many qualities of the hotel which I’ve already mentioned, was the quality of the interaction we had with the staff during our stay. Not only did the front desk personnel remember us by name and assist with booking tours or making reservations with services not provided by the hotel, but the restaurant staff also referred to us by name and was aware of the details of our stay.
A somewhat comical example of their attention to detail (for which we'll be forever grateful), was a lapse in awareness of our itinerary on the fourth day (of a five-day reservation) of our stay.
On the morning of our fourth day, we began by sitting at our usual table for breakfast when our usual server came to take our orders. She proceeded to inquire as to our plans for the day but was seemingly confused when we replied that we were reluctantly preparing for our imminent departure shortly after breakfast. Fortunately, she went and confirmed this detail with the front desk and thereby helped us avoid making a mess of the day due to our case of "travel brain."
To this day, we refer to that particular day as our "extra day" in Hoi An and it brings a smile to our faces.
How Many Days Should You Stay in Hoi An?
An ongoing theme among our travels is an apparent obsession with time maximization. Some people take vacations for relaxation, while others (like myself) attempt to fill every waking second with activities in foreign places, for fear of missing out on something life-changing.
In an attempt to find a balance between these two competing travel philosophies, I opted to pad our list of desired activities with an extra day to nap or do whatever it is that people do when they don’t have a plan.
I’ll cover our various activities in other posts, but for now, you can see the way our daily schedule was broken down:
Day One - Arrival > Hotel Check-in > Commission Tailoring
Day Two - Explore Old Town Hoi An > First fitting for tailoring > Attend the Night Markets
Day Three - Private Half-Day Tour of the My Son Sanctuary > Refinement Fitting or Tailoring Pickup
Day Four - Open Day > Pickup Tailoring > Beach?
Day Five - Open Day > ??
Day Six - Morning Departure
Exploring Old Town Hoi An
Walking through the streets of Old Town was one of the highlights of my time in Vietnam. The architecture, the colorful lanterns, and the variety of shops and restaurants make turning every corner into an adventure. Something to be aware of, however, is that buses of day tourists (largely from south Korea) arrive every afternoon and transform the otherwise peaceful town into a bustling destination.
Likewise, after the sun goes down the night market opens, shifting the center of activity from one side of the river to the other. We enjoyed the night market for the stunning variety in streetfoods much of which isn’t available earlier in the day. The market itself pops-up near where the bars and “clubs” are largely clustered, making a trip to the night market a destination for your entire evening.
New Years Eve in Hanoi Vietnam
After breakfast, we went back to our room with just enough time to watch the ball drop in Times Square. It was really strange watching everyone celebrate something that to us, had happened the day before, but we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to celebrate a second time.
Arrival in Hanoi
In a previous post, I mentioned that this trip opened my eyes to what my limitations are, as they relate to travel duration. No flight to Europe can equip you for the toll which 27 hours, three airports, and a twelve-hour time difference will do to your mental and physical state.
That said, my self-gratified attitude toward my travel skills, had aspirations of us arriving in Vietnam on New Years eve night, taking some pictures that say “we’re so awesome,” and ringing in the new year a full 12 hours before all of our friends back home would be able.
Ha!
I’ve never been more deliriously tired in my entire life, and the best we could do after landing was to try and stay awake long enough to take a shower.
JW Marriott Hotel Hanoi Vietnam
From the moment we got through customs at the airport, the staff of the JW Marriott was there assist us in our transition to being in Vietnam. My husband (the angel of hotel research), discovered while reserving our room, that they offered a private car service for picking you up from the airport, and had taken the step to arrange it before we had departed, and was THE BEST DECISION.
Completely bedraggled, we arrived at the airport and were met by both a driver and a guest service liaison, who scooped us up in a beautiful Audi and whisked us away to the hotel. It was was like being Cinderella and discovering your pumpkin carriage for the first time. We felt like royalty that was in desperate need of a shower.
Nonetheless, through the darkness of the night, we zipped along, too tired to notice anything outside of the backseat of the car. That is until we reached the long winding driveway of the hotel, which is impressive, to say the least.
There’s no place like a Marriott
Entirely focussed on the immediate necessity of a shower and bed to sleep in, I don’t recall much about my first impressions of the hotel, the check-in process, or anything before stepping into our room, but I tell you what, it could have been the delirium, but I’m pretty sure that angels began singing when we stepped through the door.
Needless to say, I took one look at that bathtub and turned the water on before I had even set down my luggage.
This very tired bird has finally landed, and just in time to watch the clock strike midnight.
Waking-up At the J.W.
After some MUCH needed rest, we were able to begin exploring our new digs, which were SO NICE. Anxious to start looking around, but VERY ready to eat something other than airplane food, our priority became making our way to the complimentary breakfast.
Happy New Year - USA
After breakfast, we went back to our room with just enough time to watch the ball drop in Times Square. It was really strange watching everyone celebrate something that to us, had happened the day before, but we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to celebrate a second time.
The Spa
Hotels are not typically known for their reasonably priced spa services, and neither was this one, but the difference is that after the journey we had to get there, I wanted a massage. However, the spa was fully booked and so we decided to “make do” with a hot tub and pool.
So the pool is amazing, and views from the pool-deck are awesome, but it was the hot tub we were on the hunt for…
Located inside of the locker room for both men and women, is the largest hot tub I’ve ever seen. Not being able to share the experience with my husband was a bummer, but a clothing-optional hot tub was worth it. That said, for the same reason, there are no pictures I can show you of the room containing it, but the rest of the space was great, and I took FULL advantage.
The Lobby
The lobby was lovely, and when we went to inspect it, we realized that this hotel is MASSIVE! Multiple restaurants, and conference facilities, this place is a city unto itself!
Tea Time
We had a great breakfast, then a leisurely soak, and then it was time for tea. A typical practice in Vietnam, high-tea begins in mid-afternoon and involves any number of tasty treats.
Vietnam Awaits
As lovely as it was, we didn’t fly to Vietnam to just hang out in a hotel. We were super grateful to have had such a wonderful experience for our arrival in a new country, but the next leg of our journey was going to be one of a more “authentic” nature, and containing zero stars from any hotel ranking system.
To the staff at the J.W., thank you for helping to turn two weary travelers back into humans again! If we’re ever in Hanoi again, we’ll be sure to stay here again.
Questions or comments? Leave me a comment!
Visiting Versailles - Part 1
Visiting the Palace of Versailles is almost mandatory for many travelers visiting France. The gilt gates, extravagant fixtures, and fantastical gardens are unmatched, and so is the volume of tourists that swarm it every day.
Storming the Palace
Visiting the Palace of Versailles is almost mandatory for many travelers visiting France. The gilt gates, extravagant fixtures, and fantastical gardens are unmatched, and so is the volume of tourists that swarm it every day.
If there’s one thing that I dislike more than anything else, it’s probably being crowded by people. I don’t enjoy attending concerts or crowded bars, having strangers bumping into me, or standing so close that I can smell their deodorant (or lack of it). It stands to reason, that I struggle with my desire to avoid high volumes of tourists, against getting to see the things that draw them in the first place.
Why Visiting the Palace is Worth the Effort
Of all the people I know who have visited Versailles, almost all did so as a day trip from Paris. Just a quick 45 minutes on the train, makes it a very convenient way for people staying in Paris, to do as a day trip. However, attempting to cram a place like this into a single day, sounds almost as stressful as dealing with the massive amount of people that are also attempting to do the same thing. The solution, fortunately, is as easy as “slowing down,” and spreading it out.
We decided to stretch this typical “day trip,” into a two-night stay, and break the palace experience into two parts. This provided us with a chance to catch our breath between touring the palace, the EXPANSIVE gardens, and the stables (now a premier riding academy). I highly recommend this methodology to anyone with more “introverted” tendencies.
Points To Live By
As I’ve mentioned before, “points” make it possible to stay in places that aren’t traditionally within reach for budgets like mine. Fortunately, my husband treats the accrual of credit card points, like a high stakes game of chess, which always pays off when we travel. In the case of France, we decided to cost mindful for the bulk of our trip, and then cash them all in on just a few nights, at a nice hotel.
Trianon Palace, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel
Probably more common than what is apparent to me, I tend to dress for comfort and practicality when traveling. On the rare occasion when we stay in luxury hotels such as this, however, simply placing my hand on the door handle makes me suddenly become aware of my need for a manicure and a hairbrush. The staff at Trianon Palace was warm and welcoming, but must have been thinking “here comes a ‘points’ redemption stay.”
My inner cynic aside, we were treated like royalty and after we got checked-in, we fully immersed ourselves in the “Versailles experience,” and did our best to look the part.
To Live is to Dine
Checked in and showered, we met some of the friends that had been traveling around France simultaneously, in the hotel lobby. With the assistance of the concierge, we were able to get last-minute dinner reservations for a party of nine, at a nice restaurant that wouldn’t break the bank.
La Tour - Restaurant Edition
I’ve often mused, that the best experiences in life, are rarely the experiences that you anticipate having. A trip to France, while memorable, still leaves large holes, in terms of the details, like what I ate for breakfast on the fourth day of the second city we visited.
However, what was a hastily planned dinner, became one of those memories that carved out a little space for itself in my memory. That said, I still don’t remember what I ate, but I remember every detail of the dining room, how the table was set, where each person in our party sat, and those details are recalled with what I can only describe as a “warm feeling.”
Be sure to visit them, or visit the website in advance, by clicking HERE.
The Palace
As I mentioned before, a MASSIVE benefit of actually staying in Versailles is that it allows you to take breaks from the crowds, and sorta spread the activities over a larger period. That said, touring the Palace itself, still requires some personal fortitude.
The morning of our second day, we rose bright and early, to go get in line before the palace gates opened. Fortunately, we had purchased tickets in advance, but despite arriving before opening for the day, we still had to stand in line for well over an hour, as they attempt to regulate the number of people entering.
Versailles Academy of Equestrian Arts
Probably not the first activity that jumps into your mind when you consider visiting Versailles, but a wonderful experience none the less!
We booked our tickets in advance, because seating is very limited, and we purchased the basic ticket for just the show (there is more than one option for these purposes). They don’t allow photos during the show, but even if you don’t care that much about horses, it’s a worthwhile experience to go watch.
A couple of the friends we were with, purchased tickets that included access to watch a practice session, which is where this photo was taken
To keep this post from being any longer than it already is, I’m going to cover the Palace Gardens on their own, because there’s A LOT to cover.
Been to Versailles? Leave me your thoughts below!
Time in Tarifa Spain
Tarifa, a refreshing departure from the hustle and bustle of large cities.
Not just a postcard stop
We didn’t spend hardly any time at all in Tarifa, but it’s a refreshing departure from the hustle and bustle of large cities. We came with the intent of taking a day trip to Morocco and only spent two nights in Tarifa to sandwich the tour.
Limited as it was, the charms of this little community, with all of the whitewashed buildings and narrow cobbled lanes, it still managed to make an impression on me. I had one of my most memorable pub experiences I’ve had in all of Europe, and all it took was a power outage and some strangers.
What the Greek?
As I mentioned, we spent VERY little time in Tarifa, but in the evening we arrived in town, we also discovered a great little tavern called the Moby Dick. Tucked away in the center of old town, we wandered into this rather elaborately themed bar and proceeded to make some great travel memories. For whatever reason, the power kept turning on and off, and rather than leaving all the patrons sitting in pure darkness, the staff lit candles on all the tables, which set a “mood” that helped to cement the evening in my memory.
Adding to the charm, was the fact that many of the other guests that night, all broke out into song, which while in Spanish, still produced a smile on the faces of everyone sitting close enough to the candles at our table, to be seen.
That same evening, we were joined by three, random Greek twenty-something men, that were wanting to practice their English skills. Being that you can hear Americans in Europe from a mile away (or at least you can hear me), they sought us out and we proceeded to have a lively conversation, mixed with a few shots of who knows what.
Ahh, travel memory magic.
Let's get old…
Typically when traveling abroad, we choose accommodations in the older parts of whatever city we’re in. Particularly in Europe, this translates to staying in buildings older than our own country (weird to think about)! We do this partly to experience the traditional culture and architecture of a place, and partly because it tends to yield a higher concentration of things we want to do.
While the little hostel (or Guest House) we stayed in during our time here was rather non-distinct, the Pensión Correo, was still a gem of old-world Spanish charm. If you’re ever looking for a little place to stay in Tarifa, perhaps to do some Kite Surfing, or to take a day trip to Tangier, you should book a night with them, HERE.
A French Countryside Vacation
If you want a place where you hear church bells on the hour, see white doves just casually hanging out in the back yard, and nothing else…this is a place where you can just, be.
3 Days in Saint-Martin-de-Sanzay
I’m a HUGE fan of historical docudramas, and Masterpiece Theater has filled my weekend calendar on more than one occasion. All that to say, I have a soft spot for “old-world charm.”
Visiting the larger cities of a given country (such as Paris) might be logistically easier, but you can learn and experience SO much about the people and history of a place by visiting the small towns and villages.
Why visit Saint-martin-de-sanzay, you ask? Equal parts random choice, regional location, and just the right amount of “unimportant to other tourists,” is what made it the perfect place for us to stay.
Where to Stay in the Loire Valley
Located in central France, it is best known for world-class wine and the stunning chateaus. I can’t recommend highly enough, spending some time exploring this area and sampling the many treasures that it has to offer.
Like anyplace that has wonderful things to see and do, there are going to be people that want to see all those wonderful things, and as a result, more touristy things invade the area. However, it’s possible to both see the things, and not so many of the “people,” by simply staying just off the beaten path.
The third part of this equation is the “random choice,” element. As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, we regularly utilize Airbnb when we travel, and in keeping with the “close, but not too close” guidelines, I simply opened up my search preferences to “Map View,” and started looking at properties in the general area of the things and places I wanted to see.
Voila, Saint-Martin-de-Sanzay yielded the result I was looking for!
Saint-Martin-de-Sanzay
Population 900, has a pub/convenience store and a post office. If you want restaurants and shopping, you’ll have to hop over to the neighboring village, which is just a few minutes away by car.
I adore this picture of my mother playing the piano, we were all laughing, drinking wine, and truly celebrating our time together in that house.
If you want a place where you hear church bells on the hour, see white doves just casually hanging out in the back yard, and nothing else…this is a place where you can just, “be.”
What “French Village” Dreams are made of
Want to open the shuttered windows and listen to some music on vinyl (we did)? Perhaps you just want to take a nap with the windows open? My father-in-law did, and when he woke up, a tiny kitten had climbed in through the window and curled up to sleep on his chest. I don’t know whom it belonged to, but I will forever affectionately call it, “le meow.”
Just a short drive to the many vineyards and chateau in the region, this countryside home has forever created a space in my heart, a space in which I mentally return to when I think of resting.
*Side Note: I also got married in this house, which I’ll share in another post.
The owner is an absolute sweetheart, and we have every intention of returning to this home again someday. If you want to reserve it for yourself, you can find the listing HERE.
Questions or comments? Leave one for me below!
My Spanish Sleeper Train Experience
First of all, I want to go on record as having said how much I enjoy train travel in Europe.
It’s what old Hollywood films are made of…almost.
First of all, I want to go on record as having said how much I enjoy train travel in Europe. It’s cost-effective, it’s comfortable, and much more liberating than being stuck in your seat on an airplane. You could argue that even with the utilization of a high-speed train, it’s still not as fast as flying, but the main difference is that you can still create memorable experiences while on a train.
No matter what, you’re gonna have to pay to sleep somewhere.
Yes, a sleeper train might sound a little pricey at first glance, but if you then consider that you would have to pay for a night at a hotel or Airbnb, I think you’ll find that whatever that cost might be, coupled with the cost of a traditional train ticket the following day, it will ultimately add up to be the same or less money.
Further, a traditional train journey, during the day, means that you’re spending the day traveling, rather than on the ground exploring an area. What if you could kill two birds with one stone, meaning that you could sleep in a bed, and wake-up where you want to be? Sleeper trains for the win!
We booked the Trenhotel provided via the Renfe service, found HERE.
A train trip includes more than your cabin or seat.
After our journey got underway, and our lengthy cabin tour (shown above), we migrated through some of the other cars on the train, until we made our way to the dining car. I don’t know why I didn’t take any pictures, but we proceeded to spend an evening that the four of us argue about to this day.
In the dining car, we set up camp in a four-person booth and proceeded to bust out a couple decks of playing cards. I thought it would be a great idea to implement a rule, where whoever won the hand we were playing, would also be saddled with buying a snack for losers of the hand, that way even if you lost, you still won a snack and therefore everyone wins. Alas, despite having a wonderful evening of snacking and playing games, the ensuing arguments about my snack purchasing rule, have been a legacy that plagues me to this day.
All is well and good until the snacks run out.
We woke up in Barcelona
We were already in Barcelona when we woke the next morning, and with all the traveling already out of the way, we were free to spend the entire day exploring the city! Well rested, and without the typical anxieties associated with jumping from city to city within a day, taking a sleeper train is something I’ll definitely do again.
Questions or Comments?
Two Sweet Days in Seville Spain
If you’ve ever been to Kansas City Missouri, chances are good that you visited the Country Club Plaza, a treasured outdoor shopping district, modeled upon the one and only, Seville Spain.
Did you know, that Seville smells like citrus?
I’ll never forget the smell of Seville, either because I had just spent multiple hours on a bus and was desperate to be anywhere other than that bus, or because the city smelled as strongly of citrus as how I remember.
Arriving in Seville, was an odd mix of relief, excitement, and familiarity. If you’ve ever been to Kansas City Missouri, chances are good that you visited the Country Club Plaza, a treasured outdoor shopping district, modeled upon the one and only, Seville Spain. A mere shadow of the real thing, it still elicited a feeling of unconscious familiarity, walking past the actual structures themselves, for the very first time.
But back to the citrus. Lining the streets of Seville, are orange trees, oranges not for eating, but commonly used for making marmalade as they are considered too bitter for eating. The trees provide shade to the buildings and sidewalks, from the relentless Spanish sun, with the bonus of a sweet citrus smell wafting through the air.
Sometimes, less is more.
If you ever attempt to plan a trip for more than two people in Europe, you’ll quickly discover the challenge of finding multi-person rooms. Additional challenges might also be for stays of less than three nights, which was a hugely limiting factor for us while in Seville.
However, all things being equal, we opted for a four-person room at a hostile, in the area which we hoped to concentrate our limited time. Some rooms had private bathrooms, while ours only had communal, but all had access to laundry service and the location was AMAZING. If you need to save a few bucks, and still want that gold star location, I’d suggest giving them a try.
*Point of fact, we were still able to book this hostile room through Airbnb (HERE)
My experience of Seville, albeit limited by time, was very pleasant. Something I observed, was how clean the core of the city was, no trash or foul odors to be found. Trash was collected each day, and the trash trucks were followed by cleaning crews which would wash the dumpsters and surrounding areas. I’ve never observed something like this in any other place I’ve ever visited.
This is not a game.
But parts of Game of Thrones were filmed here.
Built for the Worlds Fair in 1929, the Plaza de España is a wonder to behold, and I can’t recommend it highly enough, taking the time to tour it.
Gotta get some of that church…
The Seville Cathedral, still a functioning church, regularly holds services which you might observe while wandering through its chambers. More than just a church, it’s also the final resting place of Christopher Columbus, which is available to view from an exterior entrance.
It was short but sweet, and I would consider returning to Seville. I would choose it again over visiting a larger city, such as Madrid.
Iberian Peninsula: Post 2 of 6
Questions or comments, leave them below!
Porcelain, and Pastry in Portugal
One of the best value destinations in Europe, Portugal should be on every travelers list.
A Best Value Destination, Portugal should be on every traveler's list.
Porcelain tiles cover the buildings of Lisbon, bold colors, elaborate doors, artfully designed stone walkways, and colorful graffiti, make exploring Lisbon a pleasure for the eyes and senses.
From the moment you arrive in Lisbon, you’ll be enchanted with all things Portugal. The landscape is hilly, streets winding and views impressive. Music drifts from the doorways of small cafe’s and tucked away restaurants, “Fado” (the traditional music of Lisbon) is a beautiful, albeit sad sound, telling stories of hardship and loss, which only a place as rich with history, can do. This place will endear itself in your memory.
Cork, port, and pastry
The primary export of Portugal is cork, which you’ll see in all shapes and sizes, and a variety of uses, being sold at tourist shops.
Perhaps a cork Christmas tree ornament as a little memento?
Seafood is also in abundance here, sardines caught fresh and prepared in innumerable ways, are a food of choice, alongside a small pour of another popular export, port.
Perhaps a particular point of pride for the people of Lisbon is a small custard tart by the name of pastel de nata. The most popular place to experience one of these tasty treats is the famous Pastéis de Belém, located near the waterfront and monument to the Explorers.
Home away from home
While in Lisbon, we stayed at a charming little B&B, by the name of the “Lisbon Rooftop Guesthouse.” The proprietor was beyond accommodating, and despite our arrival not occurring until well after midnight (due to delay), he met us personally, to help get us settled upon our eventual arrival at the door.
Breakfast was provided each morning, and the personal attention was exceedingly helpful with not just planning our daily outings, but in general, setting us at ease in the space.
At less than $60 per night, I can’t imagine staying anywhere else, if I should ever return to Lisbon. A true value among accommodations.
So much to see, so little time…
It’s safe to say, that it takes more than two full days to truly see a city, and two days in Lisbon is an injustice. Striving to make the most of our limited time (cut short by an entire day, due to flight delays), we still managed to fall in love with the city.
Iberian Peninsula: Post 1 of 6
Feel free to ask questions below!
Milan, The Gateway to Italian Gelato
Flight deals and hotel points, just add romantic destination and you’ll have a recipe for vacation success!
Tiny cappuccinos, Caprese salads, and all the wine you could want
just some of what Italy has to offer
For some, the process of deciding where to go, once you know that you’re ready to go “abroad,” can feel daunting. On the flip side, there can be SO many places that you want to go, it can feel impossible to narrow it down to a single country. However, Italy is one of those places that even a seasoned traveler, would have a difficult time passing up an opportunity to visit, and when a really good flight deal presents itself, one needs only to say “Si!”
Our Italy story begins early in the year, when Emirates Airlines, runs their Valentine's Day specials. *Tip, for those of us that don’t live near to a major international airport, it can often be much more cost-effective, to fly to another city, and then jump across the pond from there. Emirates sometimes offers 2 for 1 flight deals, and while you may be able to find more traditional flight deals for the same or even less cost, I GUARANTEE that the flight experience won't be as nice as the coach experience on an Emirates flight.
For the price of $850, for two people (you heard me right, $425 pp), we flew round-trip from New York to Milan Italy, and we redeemed Southwest points to fly from Kansas City to New York, so it was a win-win for us. I would encourage you to sign-up for their email, so you can take advantage of this, and their other promotions.
I don’t have any photos from our flight, but it was the most elegant flight experience I’ve ever had! The flight crew was amazing, the seats were roomy and comfortable (even in coach), and the food was served with linen napkins and chilled silverware…better than some restaurant experiences.
There are a few train options to get from the airport to center of Milan, we chose the slower and cheaper option which took around an hour, but helped ease the chaos of arrival and allowed us to collect ourselves and game plan for next steps.
Milan is GORGEOUS! Also, if you’re not a coffee drinker when you arrive, you’ll be one by the time you leave.
Points are a travelers best friend.
The most expensive part of traveling isn’t the flights, it’s the accommodations. Despite the variety of affordable options available that can significantly reduce this particular pain point, there is still a benefit to nice hotels, which is priceless when travel weary.
Loyalty points are a lifesaver where hotels are concerned. To this end, I recommend putting all of your eggs in one basket where hotel chains are concerned and take advantage of available multipliers that may be offered. For us, Marriott is where it’s at, and point redemption has allowed us to stay in hotels MUCH nicer than what we could otherwise afford.
With that in mind, stumbling off of an overnight flight, groggy, in need of a shower, and luggage in tow, a nice hotel that can easily be found and has a staff that’s ready to assist you when you’re not thinking clearly, is the best way to arrive in a new place. Arriving at the Boscolo Milano was like having someone give you a glass of cold water on a hot summer day, and then offer to think for you. I struggle with decision making, until after I’ve been able to shower and change my clothes, so the fewer hoops I have to jump through after my flight lands, the better.
UPDATE: The Boscolo Milano is now the Palazzo Matteotti Milan
What trip to Milan would be complete without a visit to the Duomo?
Our time in Milan was very limited, but it would be remiss to visit such a city and not pay homage to at least one of the jewels in its crown. Fortunately for us, the Duomo di Milano was just a short walk from our hotel. Unfortunately, it was pouring down rain, and the line to get inside was more than an hour-long, but the floor by itself, was more than worth the wait!
View of the Duomo from our hotel rooftop.
With our feet firmly planted on the Italian soil, and a lovely day and a half in Milan under our belts, we’re ready for our next destination, Lake Como.
Do you have questions or need advice? Comment below!
Italy - Part 1 of 4