Hanoi Vietnam Vlog
Egg Coffee & Culture in Hanoi
The travel time is nothing to shake a stick at, but totally worth it. Hanoi will excite all of your senses and have you reaching for food that you never knew existed.
Leave me your questions of comments below!
Top 10 Reasons To Visit Northern Italy
Ten Quick Tips
Italy is not short on things to do, places to see, and things to try, but here’s my top ten favorite things about my time in Northern Italy.
Lake Como, Italy
(Click image for more about my time spent around Lake Como)
#1. Lake Como
Romance.
Milan, Italy
#2. Duomo di Milano
Massive, majestic, and worth a viewing, the floors of this cathedral are some of my favorite of any of the cathedrals I’ve toured in Europe.
Everywhere in Italy
#3. Cappuccino
My husband was proud of NOT being a coffee drinker prior to our visit to Italy, however, the cappuccino’s in Italy brought him over to the dark side ;)
Everywhere in Italy
#4. High-speed Trains
Train travel in Italy is a breeze and help make visiting multiple cities a snap!
Burano, Italy
#5. Burano Italy
A small island off the coast of Venice, Burano is known as the “lace” island, but should be known for it’s picture perfect color pallet. Spend a day visiting both Burano and Murano, and don’t forget your camera!
Everywhere in Italy
#6. The Cannoli
While available in lots of places at home, there’s something validating about having one in Italy.
Venice, Italy
(Click the image for more about my time in Venice)
#7. The Doge’s Palace
Infinitely easier to get into than St Mark’s Basilica, the Doge’s palace is history rich, and well worth a half-day.
Venice, Italy
#8. Cafe Lavena
Venice is packed with tourists during the day due to the cruise ship passengers, but sitting out in from of Cafe Lavena in the evening while listening to live music and sipping a beverage or eating a sweet treat as the sun sets… it doesn’t get much better.
Bologna, Italy
(Click image for more information about my time in Bologna)
#9. Le due Torri (The Two Towers)
Bologna is a hidden gem in Italy. Largely overlooked by tourists, Bologna is a slice of authentic Italian life, mixed with the energy of being a college town, and some of the best food we ate in all of Italy!
Everywhere in Italy
#10. Caprese Salad
Unlike the pasta heavy way that Americans approach Italian food, pasta was not the center of attention at any of the restaurants we visited. Consistently available was personal pizza, caprese salad, cured meats, and other delightful things. Given the heat, I practically lived on caprese salad while we were there, because it was refreshing and light.
Questions of Comments? Leave me a note below!
Barcelona Spain Vlog
A 3 Day Tour of Barcelona
Action-packed, follow us as we tour the Sagrada Familia, a Barcelona Soccer game, and find an enormous vending machine!
Tarifa Spain And Tangier Morocco Vlog
Join Us On Our Tour of Tangier
It was a short visit but definitely made our list of places that we want to return to.
Visit Stirling Castle
The Scottish Struggle And Braveheart?
In addition to my love of all things Harry Potter, is a deep abiding enjoyment of Historical Dramas. Granted, history adapted for the screen is no substitute for actual study, as some directors take more artistic license than others. However, in my opinion, to gain exposure to significant events in history, making them come alive on the screen is an excellent place to start reaching the masses!
If you’re in your late 30’s or 40’s, chances are high that you’ve not only seen the movie “Braveheart,” but also that either you or a friend of yours, was obsessed with it back in the late ’90s or early 2000s. While I enjoyed the film, the guys in my college social circle at the time were obsessed with all things “epic,” so to say that I’ve "seen" the Braveheart and Lord of The Rings films is a gross understatement. That said, while much of the Braveheart film was not historically accurate, it was great at capturing the essence of the struggle that did occur.
Fast forward to 2019 and our trip through the Highlands of Scotland where we took a side trip to see Stirling Castle. Why all the Braveheart buildup? Well, if you recall the film (spoiler alert), William Wallace (Mel Gibson) dies, but the film ends with a setup for yet another surge of resistance by Robert the Bruce, whom in the film changed from supporting the English to that of finally taking up the Scottish cause. While not accurate in the film, the setup for Robert the Bruce to become a significant figure in Scottish history does begin where the closing credits of Braveheart end.
Enter stage right, Stirling Castle and Robert the Bruce.
Stirling Scotland
First off, the little village nestled at the feet of this castle is adorable. Second, it’s all on a hill, so don’t forget to use your parking brake!
I’ve been fortunate to have been able to tour a good number of castles around Europe, all from different periods of history, as well as levels of splendor, but this one is special. Not comfortable and luxurious such as what Walt Disney personified, but rather, cold and hard while being deeply rooted in cultural identity and struggle for survival. If there was ever a castle that was haunted, it’s this one.
Just outside the entry gates is a statue of Robert the Bruce, from here you can (on a clear day) also see the Wallace monument which was built on a solitary hilltop nearby.
Stirling Castle
One of the largest and most important castles in Scotland, which is saying a lot when you consider that there are more than 2,000 castles in an area that is roughly the size of the US state of Maine.
Most of the buildings that comprise the castle date from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, with a few even dating back to the fourteenth century, and the outer defenses facing the town dating from the early eighteenth century!
Before uniting with England, Stirling Castle was also one of the most used of the many Scottish royal residences, several Scottish Kings and Queens were crowned at Stirling, including Mary, Queen of Scots, in 1542.
There have been at least eight sieges of Stirling Castle, including several during the Wars of Scottish Independence, with the last being in 1746, when Bonnie Prince Charlie unsuccessfully tried to take the castle.
Largely destroyed by English forces to break the will of Scottish separatism sentiment, the castle has been fully rebuilt and lovingly restored to all of its former glory.
Questions or Comments? Leave me one below!
Top 10 Reasons To Visit Spain
Trip Planning Highlights
If you plan trips the way I do, you find a few things that you might want to see or do and then you plan a trip around those things. To hopefully save you some research time, here’s a short list of my top ten favorite things from my trip to Spain.
Granada Spain
(Click on image to read more about my time in Granada)
#1 - Granada
This city was hands-down my favorite city in Spain. Full of color, energy, and historical charm, Granada is somewhere worth spending four our more days.
Granada Spain
#2 - The Alhambra
Located in the already lovely city of Granada, the Alhambra Palace is a visually stunning walk through history. Be sure to designate an entire day to walking though this place, because it’s massive and you’ll not want to miss a single square inch!
Granada Spain
#3 - Traditional Flamenco Show
Taking a page from the late travel guru Anthony Bourdain, we took in a traditional flamenco show while in Granada. Shows are readily available, but decided to see one held in the historical cave buildings in the hillside above Granada.
Barcelona Spain
(Click the image to read more about my experience in Barcelona)
#4 - The Sagrada Familia
I’ve been fortunate to tour some of the most beautiful churches in Europe, but THIS one will take your breath away. I recommend the guided tour as well as booking several months in advance of your arrival.
Day Trip From Tarifa Spain
Tangier Morocco is just 45 min away by high-speed ferry from Tarifa Spain!
#5 - Day Trip to Tangier Morocco
As lovely as the southern coast of Spain is, the draw of Morocco was too much for us to resist. just a short boat trip away, organized day trips of Tangier are a great way to spend a day!
Seville Spain
#6 - Chocolate Churro’s
As odd as it may sound, churro’s with chocolate are a favorite treat in Spain. We noticed a considerable number of churro places in Seville, so I would suggest taking the time to try one while there rather than waiting to try one in another city.
Seville Spain
(Click on image to read more about my time in Seville)
#7 - Plaza de España
You might recognize this place if you were a fan of the HBO series Game of Thrones, or have researched the locations of the Worlds Fair. It’s a beautiful place to walk around, doesn’t cost anything, and is surrounded by nice parks and gardens to stroll through.
Everywhere in Spain
(We tried it for the first time in Seville)
#8 - Paella
Available all over Spain and in an endless number of different combinations and flavors, paella was a highlight of our food journey.
Everywhere in Spain
#9 - Helado (ice cream)
I’ll admit to having not been a big ice cream eater before this trip, but somewhere in the combination of the heat, the variety of flavors, and the appealing vendors everywhere you look, I got on board and haven’t looked back.
Barcelona Spain
#10 - Park Güell
Barcelona has some of the most unique architecture of anywhere i’ve ever been, and a walk through this park in Barcelona is NOT to be missed.
Milan Italy Vlog
A lightning fast trip to Milan Italy
Serving as both our starting and ending location for our tour of Northern Italy, Milan deserves more time than we had to spend there. Take a look at what we were able to do while there, and tour the Duomo di Milano with us!
Questions or Comments? Leave them below!!
The Kelpies of Helix Park
Mystical Water Horses & Other Spirits
Something magical exists in Scotland and the people that live (and have lived) there, know it. Spiritualism, mysticism, and magic, or even just the belief in ghosts, are things you might expect to hear discussed among certain social groups here in the U.S., but the reference to these subjects is just part of a normal dialogue in Scotland. So the next time you’re chatting with a local while sipping on a glass of scotch in your hotel lobby and they start telling you about the ghost in the last hotel they stayed in, don’t immediately think of them as being “on the fringe,” think of them as being Scottish
The Water Kelpies of Falkirk
Less than an hour west of Edinburgh is the Helix Park of Falkirk. Not normally one to stop at roadside attractions, I would urge you to make an exception for this one. I stumbled across a picture on the internet, which I then sought out and added a stop to see in person, but if you find yourself driving west on the M9 from Edinburgh toward Glasgow, you’ll not be able to miss it!
A “Kelpie,” or in this case a “Water Kelpie,” is a shape-shifting water spirit that lives in the waters of Scotland. Most typically shown as a horse or human figure, the two kelpies at Helix Park are impressive both in size and design. You can read more about kelpies HERE.
Helix Park, just opened in 2014, is a canal connection between the Forth and Clyde Canal with the River Forth. Longboats traveling the canals can be found here.
Roadside Stops in Scotland
Ordinarily, we prefer to travel by train, but while Scotland does have train connectivity to major cities, a lot of the historical and countryside attractions can not be accessed via that method. For our visit, we picked up a rental car in Edinburgh and decided to take the scenic route.
Less than an hour away, and on our way to visit Stirling Castle, a visit to see the Kelpies is worth making a stop to see.
Questions or Comments? Leave them below!
Seville Spain Vlog
Video Diary Of Two Days Spent in Seville Spain
Follow our family tour of Seville and experience our first attempt at eating snails.
Lisbon Portugal Vlog
3 Days In Sunny Portugal
Watch our home video documenting our time in Lisbon while my husband does his best as a video tour guide.
A Harry Potter Pilgrimage
A Potterhead Visits the United Kingdom
My love of the Harry Potter franchise began somewhere between the second and fourth films, so sometime between 2002 and 2005. I wish I could say that I had read the books first, but the truth is that I was in college at the time, and let’s face it, ain't no one got time for elective reading.
Never the less, my young adult years of my 20’s and early 30’s were bombarded with the typical stresses of personal identity, romantic entanglements, and rigors of establishing a career track. Adding to the chaos, was the complications of the economic crash of 2008 and the ensuing hangover, many people of my age had just entered the workforce when it happened and had not yet established themselves with any particular employer. However, with a world uncertain and full of daily anxiety, there was Hogwarts to escape to.
In May of 2019, my husband and I took my mother-in-law on a two week trip to the United Kingdom. We started in London, where we stayed in an Airbnb that could have been lifted straight from the set of one of the films before we set off by train to spend the majority of our vacation in Scotland (read more about our experience here).
From London to Edinburgh by way of Platform 9 3/4
While the platform was set at Kings Cross Station in the books, the visual inspiration was that of London’s Euston Station, an embarrassing mix up which J.K. Rowling admitted to in a 2001 interview with the BBC (you can read more about this train experience by clicking HERE)
The Harry Potter Universe Exists in Edinburgh
Considering that much of the first book, and parts of the ensuing books, were written in Edinburgh, the city played no small part in influencing elements of the world that became home to Harry Potter. In the span of just a few short blocks, you see places that will immediately transport you to the wizarding world and where you’ll come face to face with the inspiration for many of the central characters in the story (more about Edinburgh here).
Must-See Places for Harry Potter Fans
The Elephant House - Spoon Cafe
This is where J.K. Rowling (then a very poor, single mother) would go while writing the first couple of books in the series. Many details in the books are places, names, and various other elements of the city directly located near or around this coffee shop.
The Greyfriar’s Kirkyard
More than one character in the series received a name from a headstone located in this grave yard.
Victoria Street
The odd angle of this downward sloped street was the inspiration for the name “Diagon Alley.” Full of life and color, the real-life “Victoria Street” is home to many lovely shops, at least two of which are nods to the Harry Potter series.
The Next Best Thing
Probably the closest thing to Ollivander's Wand Shop is the Museum of Context. The space itself, “No 40 Victoria St,” was formerly Robert Cresser, Brush Shop, founded in 1873, and made and sold paint brushes and brooms.
A step through the door is all that is needed to transport you to the magical world of J.K. Rowling, as the environment of the store is both a striking visual match for what you would expect to see in the world of Harry Potter, but the merchandise is also an array between officially licensed merch from the franchise, as well as actual antiques and oddities.
While there, a wand may have chosen me but I’ll never say which one.
All Aboard For Hogwarts
An absolute nerdgasm experience for me, came much later in the trip when we navigated our way further up into the Highlands. Operating for only portions of the year and running just twice daily, you can take a ride on the Jacobite train, otherwise known as the Hogwarts Express. I’ll go into more detail later in another post.
That’s All Folks
If you have questions or comments or let’s face it, just want to talk about your Harry Potter adventures, leave me a note in the comments!
How To Spend Three Days in Edinburgh
The Friendliest City in the United Kingdom
Edinburgh Scotland, the city you didn’t know that you always wanted to visit, is a delightful place for experienced and novice travelers alike.
A city with visually stunning architecture, lively mood, plenty of walkable attractions, and hands down the friendliest people in the UK, Edinburgh will charm your socks off.
Where to stay in Edinburgh
Having no shortage of accommodations, you can find everything from hostels, vacation rentals, historical boutique hotels, and familiar hotel chains here.
However, something to understand about Edinburgh is that having a car should be avoided at all costs. The charm of this city (particularly Old Town) comes at a cost to drivers, and parking is relegated to the outskirts of the city, but this is also where you’ll find most of the chain hotels. Fortunately, while hilly, the old city is very walkable and if you plant yourself centrally to the train station, you’ll not need a car.
My Recommendation For Where To Stay in Edinburgh
Old Town is lively, quirky, and highly accessible. If you don’t mind a little noise from the surrounding nightlife, the charm of this neighborhood will win you over. However, sidewalks are scant and the roads, while being very pedestrian-friendly, are largely brick or cobblestone and will do a number on your roller bags.
We stayed in a charming Airbnb and were in easy walking distance to shops, the castle, the train station, and everything else we wanted to do.
Three Days of Activities
This was my second time visiting Edinburgh and three days was still not enough time to see everything this city has to offer. However, if you’re limited on time here’s what we did.
Day 1 - Arrival
*As a general rule, regardless of what time of day you arrive in a new city, the process of arrival and accommodation check-in is often a considerable effort.
We arrived in the early evening, just as many of the shops were starting to close down for the night, so we grabbed some fish and chips and then checked into our nearby Airbnb.
Day 2 - Exploration
Probably the busiest day during our time in Edinburgh, I had drafted a list with no less than twenty-five different places that I wanted to checkout depending on how much time and energy we wanted to invest in exploration. Ultimately we didn’t hit everything on the list, but what we did achieve was a list of things that make for a great itinerary to share with you all!
Edinburgh Castle - Arrive first thing in the morning to avoid the crowds, we arrived as soon as they opened and had a wonderful experience with some of the staff working there.
2. Find the Heart of Midlothian - Located beneath your feet on the Royal Mile is a heart with a dark past. A heart-shaped mosaic set among the road bricks outside of the West Door of St Giles High Kirk, the heart is all that remains of one of the United Kingdom’s most heinous prisons, the Old Tolbooth. Local tradition is to spit on it as you pass, and if you read about the history of that prison you’ll understand why.
The royal mile is the stretch of shops and restaurants between the castle and palace
3. Walk the Royal Mile - Packed with tourists, and loaded with shops more than happy to over-charge you for mostly low-quality merchandise. The royal mile is also great for people watching and listening to local musicians.
4. Visit Victoria Street - Just off of the Royal Mile is one of the most charming streets you’ll find anywhere, and is also one of the most photographed. Walk down this uniquely angled street (which inspired “Diagon” Alley in the Harry Potter series, more for the diagonal angle at which it sets than for the shops it offers). However, some of the best shops I visited in Edinburgh were either on or just off of this street, so a visit is a MUST.
*For Harry Potter fans, a store called the “Museum of Context” is located about halfway down the hill, and is a place you’ll want to visit.
5. Buy A Hat at Fabhatrix - Located at the bottom of Victoria Street is an intersection of Cowgate and Grassmarket, where more shops and eateries worth visiting are located. So too is the Fabhatrix shop, where you can purchase a variety of different styles of headwear made right there in the shop. My husband and I both purchased wool caps that we wore throughout the rest of our trip.
6. Visit Greyfriars Bobby - Just up the street from Fabhatrix is a rather famous little cemetery called Greyfriars Kirkyard. A legend told by locals, is of a Sky Terrier named “Bobby",” who’s owner died and was buried in the Kirkyard, continued to visit his masters grave every day for fourteen years until his death. Various versions of this story exist, but what is agreed on is the love that this community had for Bobby. A pub named “Greyfriars Bobby” is located just adjacent to the kirkyard, and a bronze statue of Bobby is located just out front. Folks rub Bobby’s nose for good luck. We ate a late lunch here and had a lovely experience.
7. Enjoy the Art Scene - There is no shortage of galleries and shops in the Old Town and Cowgate area, so take your time and check some of them out. A regret I have while in this part of town was not stopping at the “Elephant House,” which is a coffee shop in which JK Rowling wrote a large amount of the first Harry Potter books. The inspiration for elements of places and character names were taken from actual places around the coffee shop itself.
8. Eat a Deep Fried Mars Bar - It’s a favorite of the locals in Edinburgh specifically.
9. Take a stroll through the Princess Street Gardens and check out the monument to Sir. Walter Scott.
10. Music can be heard everywhere in Edinburgh, including traditional bagpipes! Follow your ear and go have a wee listen.
Day 3 - Take A Day Trip to St Andrews
With so little time in Edinburgh to begin with, I struggled with whether to take this side trip or not. Ultimately the opportunity to spend an afternoon in the romantic medieval town that had captured my heart ten years earlier won out. Just a short train ride with an easy bus transfer away, St Andrews is an easy place to spend a day. Home to the very first Golf Course, the University of St Andrews (where Prince William and Kate Middleton first met), seaside castle ruins, and shops that are largely catered to locals rather than tourists (we did a lot of shopping here), it's a great place to slow down and try some Sticky Toffee Pudding after a walk through the cathedral ruins.
Just getting started
On our final day in Edinburgh, we checked out of our Airbnb and made our way once again to the train station in Old Town, but this time it was to pick up our rental car. As I’ve mentioned, you don’t want to have to mess with a car while you’re staying here, but for better access to some of the more remote points of interest in Scotland, you’ll want to have wheels.
The rental car options are all located beneath the train station, and as previously mentioned, Edinburgh is very hilly and the data signal is spotty at best. We learned the hard way that depending on our iPhone GPS was a mistake because as my brave husband quickly learned while driving a manual (from the right side of the car) our map wasn’t working and we didn’t know how to navigate ourselves out of town. My recommendations are that if you’ve never driven on the right before, be sure to spring for the GPS package that comes from the rental agency… it was a very stressful hour of guessing our way out of Edinburgh while trying to learn to drive an unfamiliar car.
All things considered
Edinburgh was a delight for both my husband and mother-in-law and didn’t disappoint as a place for a second visit by myself. I would jump at the chance to return and see the large number of things that we didn’t have time to see during this trip. All in all, Edinburgh might be one of my top three favorite cities that I’ve spent time in while abroad, and I can’t recommend it highly enough.
Questions or Comments? Leave me a note in the comments!
Travel By Train From England to Scotland
King’s Cross Station
For Americans the idea of traveling by train is not what immediately comes to mind when planning our vacations, but when the opportunity presents itself while abroad, it should be taken advantage of as often as possible. Travel by train is not only more comfortable and economical, but it also allows for experiences to occur while en route, which aren’t possible while on a bus or plane.
As I mentioned in my previous couple of posts about our short stay in London, the main focus of our trip was to chauffeur my mother-in-law around the Scottish Highlands. Borrowing a page from a trip I had taken with a girlfriend of mine ten years prior, I decided that taking the train would be the perfect way to kick-off that leg of this trip.
What to do with extra time at King’s Cross
If you’re like most travelers and find that you have a gap of time between when you have to check out of your accommodation and when your train leaves the station, there’s a lot of things to do right around the station itself.
King’s Cross is the largest train station in London, with multiple trains departing for Edinburgh each day. The station itself is very easy to navigate and has been recently renovated.
We arrived about three hours early, and simply checked in our luggage at a ticketed passenger holding area. I don’t recall exactly how much it cost, but I want to say that it was less than $10 to securely stow our bags until it was time to actually hit the dusty trail.
Unencumbered by our luggage, we walked a short distance of just a couple of blocks to Granary Square and visited several nearby shops. An unexpected delight of this particular area was the longboats that dock here and open as little shops and eateries!
Platform 9 3/4
If you’re an unashamed “Potter Head” like myself, you’ll be excited to know that King’s Cross is where you’ll find the famous platform from the Harry Potter series. Funnily enough, this isn’t where the films were actually shot but is where the platform was set in the books (a mixup that J.K. Rowling later admitted to). I couldn’t resist the opportunity to snag a picture at the staged platform here just as I had done ten years earlier.
All aboard!
When you’re all done dilly-dallying and it’s time to go, the fun is just beginning! Board your train, stow your luggage, and then enjoy the ride.
Questions of Comments? Leave me a note!
A Lot to Love About St Andrews
Lovely Seaside Retreat or Day Trip
Ten years ago I spent several days in St Andrews while visiting a friend from undergrad that was working on their master's degree at the university there. My travel buddy and I, both in our mid-late twenties, had never been abroad previously and St Andrews was our first stop of several in the United Kingdom.
St Andrews is exactly what comes to my mind when I imagine “old world charm,” but with just enough modern amenity to keep it comfortable, but is there to do in such a small place? Depending on who you talk to, St Andrews might be known for one of several different things:
The Old Course - The worlds first golf course
The University of St Andrews - Founded in 1413 and attended by royalty, is the most romantic setting for higher learning that I've ever laid eyes on.
The ruins of St Andrews Castle & Cathedral
In addition to the above, extra “cool points” must be awarded for the general vibe of this quaint village when visiting during the school term, when a youthful energy is added to an otherwise quiet (but friendly) setting.
Getting to St Andrews from Edinburgh
Simply put, the best way to get from central Edinburgh to St Andrews is by train. That said, typically when I’m traveling to a new place, I’m looking for transportation that is door to door without needing to make any changes in between. However, the train doesn’t go all the way to St Andrews, but instead requires a connecting bus.
Ordinarily, I would see the need for a further connection as a negative, however, I’ve now taken this particular train/bus combo to/from St Andrews a few times and I want to put your mind at ease by saying that it couldn’t be easier.
Starting out from Edinburgh
You’ll arrive at the train station on the day you want to travel, and just purchase your round-trip ticket right then and there.
*For an extra fee, you may also be able to purchase your connecting bus pass as well, so I would just ask at the ticket window.
Next, you'll just hop on the train bound for St Andrews by way of “Leuchars Station,” while en route, you’ll cross a bridge called the “Forth Bridge,” which crosses the Firth of Forth (you have to love Scotland).
When you arrive at Leuchars station (just 4 miles outside of St Andrews), you’ll be surprised to see that it’s just a tiny little station with a parking lot and waiting area. You’ll just get off of the train and walk to the waiting area by the parking lot, and every few minutes a city bus will come to pick up train passengers. These busses are comfortable and you’ll just need to purchase your ticket when you board the bus (remember to bring cash). Stay on the bus until you reach the bus depot, and from here you’ll have a very easy walk to wherever your heart leads you to go first in St Andrews.
A Day Trip to St Andrews
If you’re looking for a place to spend a few days relaxing, this is the place for you, but if you’re more ambitious in your desire to see and do stuff, I would suggest seeing St Andrews as a day trip instead.
We were here at the end of May, and most of the university students had already left, so the town had a somewhat “empty” feeling, as the permanent residents hadn’t quite gotten into a normal (sans students) routine yet. However, all the shops were open, the weather was beautiful, and golfers were out in force.
As I mentioned above, we arrived in the morning and spent several hours shopping here, as well as paying a visit to the edge of the Old Course, walking through parts of the University campus (it’s beautiful), touring the seaside ruins of the cathedral (both the castle and cathedral overlook the ocean), and walking along the harbor. We proceeded to have a lengthy, hearty lunch at a little pub in the city square, where I introduced my family to Sticky Toffee Pudding (yummy), and then we began making our way back to the train station to go back to Edinburgh.
Memory Lane
As we began our walk back to the bus station, I spotted the hostel which my friend and I had stayed at ten years prior. Being the nerd that I am, I had to take a picture under the sign. If you ever need a super inexpensive place to stay, you should consider a youth hostel, and I had a positive experience at St Andrews Tourist Hostel.
It was a truly wonderful day and an awesome walk down memory lane, but for now it’s time to head back to Edinburgh.
Leave me a note in the comments :)
High Tea Fit For Royalty
The Goring Hotel
On our most recent visit to the United Kingdom, we found ourselves with 24 hours in London that also coincided with my birthday. With a desire to capitalize on the occasion, we chose to celebrate with a traditional High Tea service, but the question of “where” resulted in hours of reading TripAdvisor reviews as well as other travel blogs, to try and find a place not overrun with Instagramers and fellow tourists. Ultimately, I discovered The Goring Hotel, which perfectly fulfilled my birthday wish.
Searches By A Self-Loathing Tourist
When traveling abroad, there’s a certain level of “tourist stench" which can’t be easily escaped by American travelers. We're typically larger, louder, and for a variety of reasons, showing our teeth. However, careful planning can help to mitigate a certain amount of our "cliche" behavior and provide those of us that are aware of our "presence," a more authentic experience.
With a desire for a tourist-free, high-class birthday tea, several places rose to the surface in terms of popularity among travel bloggers and Tripadvisor reviewers. Fortunately, it quickly occurred to me that I was taking these suggestions from the same people I was wanting to avoid and that I would need to broaden my search. Changing gears, I decided to research significant places of business to the royal family and as a result, found options largely unmentioned in my previous searches. Eventually, I made my way through the list to The Goring Hotel and it was love at first click.
“The closest hotel to Buckingham Palace, The Goring has been a firm Royal favorite for many years, since it first opened its doors. The coronations of George VI and Her Majesty The Queen saw the hotel filled with royalty attending these great occasions from all over the world. The Queen Mother also famously enjoyed Eggs Drumkilbo – a lobster and egg-based dish that remains one of the most popular dishes in The Dining Room.
In 1990, George Goring accepted an O.B.E. from Her Majesty The Queen at Buckingham Palace for ‘services to the hotel industry’. This was followed by the appointment of a Royal Warrant to The Goring in 2013 - the only hotel to have been awarded a Royal Warrant for hospitality services. Royal Warrants of Appointment are a mark of recognition to those who supply goods or services to the Households of Her Majesty The Queen, His Royal Highness The Duke of Edinburgh or His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales. “
If having the warrant wasn’t cool enough, it’s also the hotel used by Kate Middleton (see HERE). Moral of the story is that if it’s good enough for royalty it’s good enough for me ;)
What To Expect
After choosing where I wanted to go, I turned my attention to details such as what the ideal time for tea is, what the dress code was, and if there was a set length of time per reservation.
Details to Know:
High Tea traditionally starts at 4 pm
Most high-end establishments (including The Goring) do have a dress code
Men are required to wear a sport coat or dinner jacket
No shorts or jeans
Reservations are 1.5 hours in length
Make your reservations in ADVANCE
High tea isn’t an inexpensive activity, and the prices typically vary by location and then there’s usually a range of tea service options. Our service was on the upper end of the spectrum, but the quality was worth every penny of the $70 price (per person) tag.
Happy Birthday to Me!
We had such an amazing experience during our time at The Goring, and despite the lack of photos (because this really wasn’t a place to act like a tourist), it was an absolute highlight of our time in London!
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24 Hours in London England
Timing is Everything
I’m a self-admitted over scheduler, but sometimes you’ve gotta do what you’ve got to do. Last May my husband and I jumped at the opportunity to take my mother-in-law to the United Kingdom, as she had expressed a desire to see to Scotland, and we relished the chance to show it to her.
At the top of my mind, was the very real possibility that this might be the first and last time that she will ever visit the U.K., so I wanted to make sure that the trip would provide her with experience, exposure, and memories that we could all treasure together. Which leads me to my most problematic part of planning this trip.
Flight deals proved tricky to come by in late May, as it is the very beginning of peak season, and we planned this trip just eight weeks in advance. If you’ve ever traveled to the U.K., I’m sure you’re aware of how expensive it can be. That said, our intended destination was Scotland, but we found a good flight deal into London, and given my experience traveling by train between England and Scotland ten years prior, I knew that the cost, time, and experience would be worth utilizing the alternative arrival airport, but I digress.
As I mentioned before, London is expensive, so we decided to only stay a single night and therefore limit our time there to just a little over 24 hours. London is MASSIVE, so planning a once in a life-time London experience for my mother-in-law was a challenge that called upon all of my neurotic scheduling tendencies.
The Schedule
Arrival at London Heathrow - 8:00 AM
Catch the Tube and navigate to the general area of our Airbnb (approx. 1 hr journey)
Deposit luggage at reserved baggage nanny locker - 10:00 AM
We wouldn’t be able to check into our Airbnb until 2:00 PM and needed to unencumber ourselves for sightseeing.
Get back on the Tube and travel further east to see the Tower of London and London Tower Bridge, eat lunch and then get back on the Tube to go collect luggage from baggage nanny.
Arrive exactly on time to Airbnb at 2 PM, get checked in, take showers and change, leave by 3:30 PM to arrive at Hotel for High Tea at 4 PM for FIRM reservation.
Finish tea and proceed to Piccadilly Circus to meet Photographer reserved through AirBnB experiences, for a family photoshoot at iconic London spots - 6 PM.
Photoshoot ends at 7:30 PM - The rest of the evening is free.
The next morning, go watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard at Buckingham Palace - 10 AM
Checkout of Airbnb at noon
Deposit luggage at Kings Cross station 12:45 PM
Visit surrounding shops and get a new photo at Harry Potter 9 3/4 spot at the station
Board the train for Edinburgh Scotland - 2 PM
Relax on the four-hour scenic trip.
Plans Change
Rare is the case with a packed schedule, that something doesn’t go wrong, and the issues cascade from one to the next. Such was the case step #4 and getting checked into our Airbnb.
Located in the West End, the location was ideally located by a major metro hub and lots of cute shops and restaurants. However, unbeknownst to us, the building it was located in was a mirror image building of one located directly in front of it. Making matters worse, is that we were unaware that the entrance to the correct building at the same address, was accessible ONLY by foot, from the alleyway behind the building at the address we arrived at. As you can imagine, we arrived exactly on time, and without a moment to spare, only to find that we were unable to enter the building located at the corresponding street address. Two frantic phone calls to the host later, we came to discover that we had to walk behind the building to a separate entrance to a mirror image building…
Finally, in the correct spot, it’s 2:30 PM and unfortunately, the previous guests had not yet checked out. Our host was there to meet us and was very apologetic, but despite being aware of our very compressed schedule and need to get changed and back out the door, insisted on giving all three of us a tarot card reading before he would complete our check-in and remove the luggage of the previous guests.
3:10 PM, finally checked in and able to get ready for our reservation, but with just 20 minutes to spare, there was no time to shower, iron clothes, or style hair. Wash travel dirt off of face, brush teeth, pull back to hide hair-tie lines from wonky high bun, wear least wrinkled outfit, basic makeup and done!
Fortunately, despite being somewhat frazzled, we arrived EXACTLY on time for tea, and it was a perfect experience. Unfortunately, the peace was to be short-lived, as we would have to dash once again just an hour and a half later to meet our photographer.
Lesson Learned
While still an ambitious use of 24 hours, there are only two things I would have done differently.
Lesson One - Book a Hotel
We booked an Airbnb due to the cost of staying in central London. Not only is the average cost per night VERY high, but there’s also a strict limit of two adults per room, which in our case of three adults, doubles the cost. However, in hindsight, the day would have run MUCH better if we had been able to check into a hotel upon our arrival and would have been worth the additional $300 which we saved by staying the Airbnb. Sometimes convenience in the face of tight scheduling is worth more than money.
Lesson Two - Limit yourself to no more than two structured “to-do’s” per day while traveling.
Our mere 24 hours (in reality it was more like 30 hours) was bogged down with twelve to-do items which included necessary things like arrival, departure, accommodation check-in, etc. All of those necessary tasks take a mental tole while traveling, so when faced with such a narrow turn around time, limit yourself as to the number of structured activities and THEN if you feel up to it, allow other experiences to naturally be added to your list, that way you don’t always feel pressed for time to make it to the next pre-planned activity.
Lesson Three - Getting photos taken while on vacation is a MUST!
This was a game-changing experience for us in terms of trip photos. It was amazing to get images of my husband and me in amazing locations without it having to be a close-range selfie, or badly composed because you begged a passing stranger to take your picture. We’ll be doing this on all trips from now on.
Questions or Comments? Leave me a note below!
The American War Remnants Museum
We Should All Feel Sick
Nothing about armed conflict should be attractive for any reason, the military as a way of “seeing the world",” dismissed as the bad idea that it is. “The pen is mightier than the sword,” and “blessed are the peacemakers” should be the philosophy of all humanity, and desire to hurt and destroy those that disagree with us, be allowed to serve as historical lessons in the evolution of humankind.
However, the world we live in now is but a breath more civilized than it was a hundred years ago, the only difference being that we’ve developed technology to help us keep our hands cleaner during the crime.
Visiting the American War Remnants Museum did nothing to change my feelings about armed conflict, but it did further inflame my feelings toward those that treat the subject casually.
The museum itself is now known as the American War Remnants Museum but was once known as the American War Crimes Museum, a change that while helpful for international relations, is a less accurate description of what it represents.
The End is The Beginning
We arrived at the museum, which appears to be more of a military machinery showcase based on the amount of artillery on display out front. After purchasing our tickets and exploring some of the machines around the exterior, we mounted the steps to see what awaited us inside.
Inside the door is a glass display cabinet, the contents of which are letters written by veterans, as well as metals of distinction awarded to those veterans by the US Government. However, as it would turn out, both the letters and the metals, were from American service members whom had chosen to send the metals they had earned during their time in Vietnam, back to the country where they had been earned along with letters of apology for the things they had done on behalf of the American government. Welcome to the museum.
Shock and Awe
The many rooms of this museum cover various sociopolitical aspects of the conflict, rooms, and displays dedicated to the journalists from around the globe that lost their lives, documentation retrieved from both governments which outlines efforts made to conceal the realities of the situation both from the service members supporting the effort as well as to the citizens of each country. One cabinet in particular containing photographs of journalists that lost their lives also bears a sign which the exact phrase has eluded me, but the sentiment of which struck me as being very gracious. It read (in effect), “The massive loss of life resulting from this conflict was not the desire of each respective country, but rather the result of selfish individuals within the governments on each side.” The sentiment is both true, and gracious, considering the massive price which their country is STILL to this day paying.
Two rooms which I found most difficult to view were toward the end, one dedicated to the effects of Agent Orange, and the other to the Vietnamese prisoners of war which were captured and tortured by fellow Vietnamese opposition forces. Photographs of one such person who had disemboweled THEMSELVES in protest to the torture being inflicted within a South Vietnamese prison, literally required me to step outside and place my head between my knees for fear of becoming sick at the site.
See No Evil, Speak No Evil, Hear No Evil
In my travels, I’ve come to view people around the world as being less and less different than myself. Remove the flags, and we’re all just human with the same base needs, wants, and fears. It pains me greatly to look upon events in history where people killed, or died, because of the prideful desires of things related to a flag, which is nothing more than fabric. Even still today, we fight wars physically and verbally for the same trivial reasons, words either carefully or carelessly chosen, capable of dividing families and countries. I’ve been accused on social media of being the “tone police,” but I believe that words are the most powerful tool that humans possess. A word can elicit feelings of pride, inspiration, love, hope, and forgiveness, but they can also generate fear, hate, panic, and action. Something so simple as a word can send us to war or to end one, and if my efforts to remind people of the power they hold over the words they use is to be “condemned” by such a title as Tone Policing, then I guess I welcome the insult.
Saigon, A Tale of Two Ho Chi Minh Cities
Last Stop
During the planning phase of the trip, there was much uncertainty surrounding what the final city would be before our departure. Southern Vietnam is different than that of Northern, both in culture as well as climate. Eventually opting to visit Ho Chi Minh City to visit the War Remnants Museum, we were surprised by just how stark the differences with the North, actually are.
If cultural immersion had been our goal in Hanoi, comfort and air conditioning were the order of the day here. Using points, we stayed at a modern hotel on the waterfront, located in the heart of the hustle and bustle of the massive sprawl that is Ho Chi Minh City.
What To Do in Saigon
We had two objectives during our stay here, which is limited by time, were arranged in advance of our arrival. The first objective is a private cultural tour, which he had booked via AirBnB Experiences, which was facilitated by an American man from Montana, who had been living there for three years. Fortunately for us, I had arranged this tour with him first, and it was with his guidance that we arranged to start the tour early in the morning (6:30 AM), and again at his suggestion, decided to fulfill our second objective on the following morning.
The Cultural Tour
Rising with the dawn of our first full day, we made our way by taxi to the specified location to meet our tour guide (Matt). It was already hot despite the hour, so we were grateful for having taken his advice and gotten our butts out of bed.
Our guide was friendly and communicated facts and details in a way that as Americans, we would either find especially interesting or would be able to better understand by way of shared national identity. We were accompanied by a friend of his who was also visiting from the US and who also was nearly the victim of the only thing even remotely resembling “lascivious behavior” that we had observed during our entire time in Vietnam. That said, a man of a motorbike tried to grab his iPhone (which was in use) out of his hand as he drove past. Fortunately for our new friend, the attempted thief dropped the phone and chose to keep on driving, allowing the phone to be recovered without damage.
With belongings securely stowed, we continued the tour and arrived at a nearby park in time to watch a group of elderly women performing their daily morning practice of Sword Kata.
A City With Two Names
You may have noticed that this city is often still referred to as “Saigon,” instead of Ho Chi Minh City, and I was grateful to finally get some clarity on this point during our tour.
As you may recall, or even if you don’t, that the city of “Saigon” was the capital city of the briefly independent country of South Vietnam, which was backed by the United States. When the South Vietnamese (and us) lost the war, the communist leadership of the North, renamed the city in honor of their figurehead, Ho Chi Minh. That said, to this day the citizens of the north and south do not get along, and the citizens of the south have fully rejected the new name. To that end, while “Ho Chi Minh City” is the official name, to anyone that lives there, “Saigon” is what is used in the everyday.
It’s not the heat, it’s the humidity
If we had been surprised by the cold while in Hanoi, we were melted into a puddle of mush by the heat in Ho Chi Minh City. A local told us that they have two seasons in southern Vietnam, hot and wet, or hot and wetter, and I believe him.
I suggest doing anything outside, early in the morning, because by the time midday rolls around (and keep in mind that we were there during their winter, in January) it’s entirely too hot to move!
Fortunately, bubble tea is plentiful and provides welcome refreshment as often as needed.
Everyone Celebrate!
Tết, the Vietnamese New Year was going to be occurring shortly after our departure, but decorations were already beginning to appear around the city. We were fortunate enough to get to see some of them while out one evening after being advised to check out a VERY cool rooftop bar at the Hotel des Arts Saigon.
Final Thoughts
While the main purpose of our visit to Saigon was to visit the American War Museum (I talk about this in another post), the city, in general, was entirely overwhelming to me, and if I ever find myself in Vietnam again I would prioritize visiting smaller cities in the surrounding region. That said, the people are very warm, and were VERY happy to see Americans. Several older locals even asked to have their pictures taken with us because they hadn’t seen an American since they were themselves, young children, during the war, it was very touching.
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What's Cooking in Hoi An Vietnam
Eat it Now and Ask Questions Never
Traveling is so exciting, seeing and experiencing other cultures transformative, and then there’s the food. A bedrock of not only just a healthy daily routine but also of experiencing other cultures is eating the food. Traveling through North America or Western Europe is one thing, but Southeast Asia is entirely another.
Snack Central
During our time in Hanoi, my husband and I took a private street food tour which we greatly enjoyed. The guide had helped explain not just what the food was, or the tradition behind it, but also anticipated what we as tourists would be most willing to try. I recommend this experience to anyone who might have food allergies or other aversions that they would rather not be surprised by.
However, by the time we found ourselves in central Vietnam, specifically Hoi An, we were not only much more confident in our ability to navigate the cultural differences but were also much more open to trying more of the unfamiliar and exotic foods presented to us. Being “open” to culinary diversity was never more important than during our time in Hoi An, as it was a relative cornucopia of new foods to try largely due to the popularity of the Night Market which draws a HUGE influx of street vendors.
One slightly confusing element to the food carts was the subtle use of french words that have woven themselves into the language. Knowing VERY little french myself, but just enough to recognize certain words, I found myself noticing the french word for "dog," which was enough reason for me to keep moving. While in Hanoi, I asked our street food tour guide about the practice of eating dog, and while he said that it has become rarer over the years, it hasn't entirely gone away and is still practiced by elder members of society that believe in more mystical properties.
Come Hungry
We often remarked at the end of each day, just HOW MUCH food we were eating while on that trip, however, we were never uncomfortably full due to the lack of dairy and wheat gluten in the cuisine. Given the extremely inexpensive nature of street food here (most items cost between $.50 - $1.00), we could eat all day long and not feel an ounce of guilt about the quantity of time being invested in eating!
After we returned home to the US, we approached eating Vietnamese food in our hometown very differently. We also realized that the Vietnamese food which is available in our area, is Southern Vietnamese food, with many of the dishes which we had while visiting the North, not being known by them or not being available.
Relax at An Bang Beach
Am I alone in thinking that vacations are exhausting?
Take A Break From Vacation
I feel a little silly admitting that vacations are exhausting, but the way my husband and I do them, they can be. Seize the day, or Carpe Diem might as well be emblazoned on our foreheads because we try to squeeze every ounce of experience we can get out of a place, while we find ourselves there, and leave little to no time to decompress from life or even allow ourselves to process our travel weariness.
Don’t Forget to Take a Break!
In previous posts about our time in Vietnam, I outlined a specific day to relax and maybe go to the beach. Not knowing in advance how wonderful they would be, I didn’t want to commit ourselves to this activity prematurely.
However, the day came and the hotel we were’ staying at, while not directly on the beach, offered free shuttle service to a private beach.
As a side note, I had initially intended to book us a hotel on the beach and then use a shuttle to bring us to the center of Hoi An each day, but we ultimately switched the arrangement and I’m SO glad we did! There’s very little to do out at the beaches.
An Bang Beach
Holy smokes, this place was just what the doctor ordered for two weary travelers! The sand is soft, there’s (oddly) no seagulls, and in general very little tourist development. It was quiet, the service was amazing, and as per usual, the food scrumptious!
Have a chat
If soft sand, warm gentle breezes, and refreshing drinks aren’t enough for you, you’re guaranteed to be entertained by your fellow beach-goers. In general, most caucasian westerners you see wandering around aren’t Americans (it’s a bonus in my mind), but native English speakers tend to gravitate toward one another almost as if by supernatural forces outside of our control.
It’s with this “attraction” in mind that we met several interesting couples visiting from England, one such couple we ran into a second time later on during our trip while in Ho Chi Minh City.
Conversations had while traveling abroad, are my favorite conversations, and rarely, do I walk away without a feeling of having been enriched by it. Getting outside of your everyday patterns, stepping back from your normal social circles, and discussing “life,” becomes a super-charged experience when you’ve put yourself in a place to truly listen to what others have to say. The magic of travel is actively stripping yourself of the barriers of opinion that we clothe ourselves in, removing the trappings of our security by way of total immersion within worlds of like-mindedness, and where different opinions have no oxygen to live.
Take a break, have a chat, and see how you grow and change as a result of fresh air, other opinions, new experiences, and allow your perspective to shift.