Cruise Ha Long Bay Vlog
Two Day Cruise Aboard The Emeraude
When it comes to planning our trips, old episodes of the various travel shows by the late Anthony Bourdain are basically my bible. To that end, during one of his many visits to Vietnam, he cruised on the Emeraude when he explored Ha Long Bay, so we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to do the same. Fun fact, our cruise director served as part of the crew while he was aboard, and she was full of little details about what we would do around the ship and what he liked to eat and where.
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Chateau of The Loire Valley Vlog Tour
The Great Homes of France
Get a front row seat to a couple of the most beautiful chateau in the Loire Valley region of France!
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Tobermory and The Isle of Mull
Gem of The Inner Hebrides
Piggybacking on my previous post about our time Oban (click the link to read more), we underestimated the need to reserve ferry tickets in advance for visiting the islands from Oban. My advice to you would be to research the island options in advance and book your tickets early.
The Isle of Mull
As stated above, we did not book our ferry tickets in advance of our arrival in Oban and were shocked to discover on the day before our intended island excursion, that there were no tickets left to purchase. However, they did suggest that we take a chance and purchase standby tickets for the very first departure of the morning.
The next morning, bright and early, we drove our car down to the port and got into the standby line. The car porters are highly efficient and miraculously found a way to not only fit all of the ticketed vehicles but also one extra! We were very relieved to be on our way but would have to cross our fingers that we would once again get lucky with our standby ticket for the return trip that evening.
Getting Around
All ferries departing from Oban will arrive in Craignure, on the southeastern point of Mull, but the town that you’ll most likely want to visit is up on the north end. The Isle of Mull is not exactly a “bustling,” and taking the bus would not be the ideal way to see this place. I recommend that you take a car with you on the ferry, to allow you to drive yourself around on the island and be able to stop at any point that interests you.
Photo Opportunity
The roads on the island are narrow and rarely provide shoulders, so it helps to familiarize yourself in advance of your arrival for anything that you might want to be on the lookout for. I knew in advance of our arrival, of some wrecked boats on the shores of Mull that I would want to stop at, so each time we entered a stretch of road along the shore, I made sure to have my husband slow down and be prepared to park the car.
Tobermory
Nestled into a cozy little harbor and set against a rocky cliff in the picture-perfect postcard village of Tobermory. This quaint little place should be treated with leisure otherwise you’ll be done in five minutes, but if you take your time wandering into each of the little shops you can spend a very happy afternoon here.
At the top of my list is a coffee shop located inside of an old church building, called Toberymory Gallery Shop.
Tobermory Distillery
We had a lovely experience at this distillery, much less commercialized it felt like a special secret that we had discovered while there. Even more exciting is that this particular scotch is not available in the United States, so we were sure to snag a bottle to bring home.
Learning our first little bit of galic during our tasting, we came to understand that “Ledaig” is actually pronounced as “Lay-chick.”
Tobermory Bakery & Tea Room
I’ve already raved about my love of British Scones in a previous post, but here’s another bakery in which I couldn’t pass up on the opportunity to indulge!
Tobermory Cheese Company
Just a short drive from the village of Tobermory is a picture-perfect little farm called Sgriob-ruadh Farm. While the cafe wasn’t exactly open, it was still open for customers to enter and make cheese purchases on the honor system.
Craignure Inn
For the final stop on our Isle of Mull adventure, we ventured inside a little Inn & Pub located near to the ferry port. I kid you not, this place was like something out of a movie, complete with two locals seated at the bar after a round of golf and enjoying a pint. Making matters even more whimsical, the Bartender/Inn Keeper was truly an entertainer that performed magic tricks while we enjoyed a late lunch at a corner table.
Back to Oban
As I mentioned above, we purchased standby tickets for both our outbound and return trip on the ferry, but I want to reinforce how lucky we were to both be able to get there and get back with this kind of ticket. In the photo below you’ll notice our little blue rental car, which was able to be squeezed onboard for both trips, but just by the skin of our teeth!
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An Angelic Summer Cake
Summer Is Canceled
2020 is a year that I can’t wait to see in my rear-view mirror and not just because of the terrible things that are happening, but also because of the wonderful things that simply are not.
I’ve been extremely fortunate in that I work for a company that has taken the pandemic seriously since day one and has allowed those of that can, to work remotely since the middle of March. However, the decision to send us all home (which I’m continually grateful for) has frozen my mental calendar firmly to that date in an almost groundhog day fashion… causing me to continuously feel confused by the month shown on the calendar.
In a normal year, a series of events would have already occurred by this point in July, and a series of events would also be on my immediate horizon that, well… simply haven’t, and aren’t going to this year. Questions like, “what day is it” seems to be forever on my tongue as the days, weeks, and months have become strung together with no distinguishing events to catapult my measure of time further into the year.
The above is not news to anyone, we’re all in this together, but we’re all getting through it slightly differently.
Let Me Eat Cake!
On the subject of the pandemic, diet and exercise are topics not far from anyone’s mind. Like a pendulum, I have swung from one extreme to the other and then back again, all while attempting to establish a sense of equilibrium, a challenge considering that nothing is normal, everything is always changing, and let’s face it, eating cake is comforting.
If you're like me and had travel plans that were canceled due to a travel ban, you might be organizing your socks or some other mundane thing in place of dwelling on the disappointment of it all. Alternatively, if sock organization has already been completed, perhaps you're game to try something that you've always wanted to do but haven't?
For example, I’ve always wanted to make a classic Angel Food Cake. I’ve avoided attempting this cake because of the special pan that is required (cabinet storage is in short supply in a condo), but desperate times call for desperate measures. Throwing storage concerns to the wind, I bought the pan and took the plunge.
This is a blog post that documents my first attempt at making a cake that’s as synonymous with summer as is swimming pools and outdoor barbecues.
In Yummary… I mean Summary
This was easier than expected to make, separating the eggs was the only tedious part but you’re well supplied with yolks for making custard later ;)
I used the recipe from Bon Appetit but most recipe’s seem to be relatively similar.
I may not be attending backyard barbecues this summer, but I am enjoying a little slice of summer with this cake!
Leave me a comment below!
Top 5 Things To Do In Paris
Five Things Not To Be Missed In Paris
I don’t recommend trying to see Paris in just three days, but if that’s all the time you have then here are my top choices for things to see without eating up too much of your limited time.
Sacré-Cœur
When you think of Paris Notre Dame is probably one of the first three things to come to mind, but ever so sadly it might be a very long time before anyone gets the opportunity to set foot inside those beautiful walls. However, an often overlooked church (but very special in its own rite) is the Sacre Coeur, located on a hill top overlooking all of Paris in the coveted neighborhood of Montmatre. The view alone is worth the trip up the hill!
2. Cocktails at Bar Hemingway
Paris is a city known for luxury, elegance, and a dash of decadence and nothing embodies that better than the famous Ritz hotel. Tucked away in the back of the main floor is an itty bitty little bar made famous by Ernest Hemingway. However, be mindful that with all the luxury comes an equally decadent price, a cocktail here will set you back $30 euros so I would suggest that you start your evening with a single drink here and then you head off to dinner.
3. Dans Le Noir
My husband and I consider ourselves “foodies” and it’s no secret that the visual experience of food has an impact on your opinion of the taste of that food. That said, we jumped at the opportunity to have an entirely new eating experience in which you dine entirely in the dark. We had an amazing time and would highly recommend that you visit Dans Le Noir the next time you’re in Paris.
4. The Ultimate Souvenir
Nothing says “France” like the classic black beret, and while cheap versions made in elsewhere are plentiful, we found a great little shop in the heart of Le Marais called “Chapeaux Du Marais.” We purchased cashmere beret’s made in Paris and the quality was second to none.
5. The Eiffel Tower
As cliche as it may be, seeing this iconic landmark with my own eyes definitely made my heart do a little a dance. We saved this activity for the evening when it would be less busy, and it was totally worth it to see it sparkle! *The lights only run for a few minutes each hour, so be sure to both check the schedule and to time your viewing accordingly.
Questions or Comments? I love discussing Paris, so leave me a note below!
Hanoi Vietnam Vlog
Egg Coffee & Culture in Hanoi
The travel time is nothing to shake a stick at, but totally worth it. Hanoi will excite all of your senses and have you reaching for food that you never knew existed.
Leave me your questions of comments below!
Top 10 Reasons To Visit Northern Italy
Ten Quick Tips
Italy is not short on things to do, places to see, and things to try, but here’s my top ten favorite things about my time in Northern Italy.
#1. Lake Como
Romance.
#2. Duomo di Milano
Massive, majestic, and worth a viewing, the floors of this cathedral are some of my favorite of any of the cathedrals I’ve toured in Europe.
#3. Cappuccino
My husband was proud of NOT being a coffee drinker prior to our visit to Italy, however, the cappuccino’s in Italy brought him over to the dark side ;)
#4. High-speed Trains
Train travel in Italy is a breeze and help make visiting multiple cities a snap!
#5. Burano Italy
A small island off the coast of Venice, Burano is known as the “lace” island, but should be known for it’s picture perfect color pallet. Spend a day visiting both Burano and Murano, and don’t forget your camera!
#6. The Cannoli
While available in lots of places at home, there’s something validating about having one in Italy.
#7. The Doge’s Palace
Infinitely easier to get into than St Mark’s Basilica, the Doge’s palace is history rich, and well worth a half-day.
#8. Cafe Lavena
Venice is packed with tourists during the day due to the cruise ship passengers, but sitting out in from of Cafe Lavena in the evening while listening to live music and sipping a beverage or eating a sweet treat as the sun sets… it doesn’t get much better.
#9. Le due Torri (The Two Towers)
Bologna is a hidden gem in Italy. Largely overlooked by tourists, Bologna is a slice of authentic Italian life, mixed with the energy of being a college town, and some of the best food we ate in all of Italy!
#10. Caprese Salad
Unlike the pasta heavy way that Americans approach Italian food, pasta was not the center of attention at any of the restaurants we visited. Consistently available was personal pizza, caprese salad, cured meats, and other delightful things. Given the heat, I practically lived on caprese salad while we were there, because it was refreshing and light.
Questions of Comments? Leave me a note below!
Barcelona Spain Vlog
A 3 Day Tour of Barcelona
Action-packed, follow us as we tour the Sagrada Familia, a Barcelona Soccer game, and find an enormous vending machine!
Tarifa Spain And Tangier Morocco Vlog
Join Us On Our Tour of Tangier
It was a short visit but definitely made our list of places that we want to return to.
Trip Planning During Covid19
Planning When Nothing Is Certain
We’re now half-way through 2020 and what feels like a lifetime of uncertainty related to Covid19. Regardless of your feelings or opinions about how to address the pandemic in your day-to-day, the fact remains that government-mandated restrictions remain. For those that had plans for big life events or experiences in 2020 holding our breath and crossing our fingers has become the only sport available to watch.
A New Set of Rules
Typically when I plan our trips abroad there are certain key factors that I just don’t challenge the wisdom of and that list starts with avoiding Europe in August. However, due to an unrelated scheduling challenge for my husband this year, the only window of time long enough to go anywhere in 2020 just so happened to be in August which I was NOT thrilled about at the start of the year. However, as everyone around the world is now used to saying, “then COVID happened.”
Trip Planning During Covid19
As much as I wish I could be an authority on the subject it’s simply not possible to build a house on shifting sands, so for those that keep asking me what is going on with my summer travel plans, this post is a chronicle of my experience while attempting to plan during a time of the unknown and unknowable.
Timeline
Back in January of 2020, we purchased roundtrip tickets on British Airways from New York to Athens Greece. As I’ve mentioned in a previous post we often purchase inexpensive flights from our hometown to more major cities offering more competitively priced international flights, so in this case, it was Southwest Airlines to the rescue!
January was a blissful time of new resolutions and nieve planning for the new year, but what it also did was to create a protective bubble around our newly booked trip to Greece which was done pre-COVID. That said, “then COVID happened” and put everything into flux. Our financial investment in both our flights and accommodations are safe because of our booking date, but then comes a variety of other things to consider and potential complications to tackle.
COVID Considerations
Government Regulated Travel Restrictions
Government-Mandated COVID Mitigation Rules
Above impact on desired activities
Travel Regulations
At the time of the writing of this post, I’m paying very close attention to International tourism regulations from Greece, the European Union, and the United States. Thankfully the EU is being very communicative about regulatory changes and making those changes available on various government websites.
As it stands the US is under a level 4 travel ban on non-essential travel, which doesn’t mean that we can’t leave but does mean that we can’t get travel insurance. The EU is slowly opening up, and fortunately for us, Greece is at the forefront of the relaxing of those regulations due to the low number of COVID cases they have been able to maintain. However, as of today Greece still requires mandatory COVID testing and multi-day quarantine of all arriving tourists. In addition to testing upon arrival, Greece is also heavily enforcing social distancing guidelines which at present is keeping indoor bars and restaurants closed, and has capped entry to many of the historical sites.
With that being said, the Greek Tourism Board has strongly implied that they expect the current restrictions to be lifted in July, and the EU is slated to release the updated guidelines July 1st, but they have not made implications such as what Greece has.
Travel Regulation Resources
The following list of websites is what I’m paying close attention to in terms of the probability of my trip, and my secondary consideration is checking with my airline to stay up to date with how they are complying with travel regulations in addition to being enrolled in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP).
International Flights
As mentioned above, a secondary thing to remain mindful of is how the airlines are reacting to changing regulations. A great example is one such change that has already occurred to my potential trip and the city of my layover.
My flight in August was scheduled to depart from NYC and then land in Madrid Spain before continuing on to Athens Greece. However, the partner airline that we were booked on (in this case Iberia Airlines) which then would have been departing from Spain, was canceled. The cancelation of the second leg of our flight was not a major issue, and actually was a blessing in disguise! We received the cancelation notice and immediately called customer support at British Airways where a representative immediately took our call, rebooked both legs of our flight on a British Airways flight plan through London, and had the whole process completed within ten minutes from the start of our call.
Where the above scenario becomes important, is that the cancelation of the original second leg of our trip is that it was due to restrictions between Spain and Greece, so it’s important to try and stay aware of the many moving pieces related to travel within the EU.
Needless to say, I'll be waiting with bated breath for the announcement promised for the beginning of July.
Want to join the conversation? Leave a Comment Below.
Visit Stirling Castle
The Scottish Struggle And Braveheart?
In addition to my love of all things Harry Potter, is a deep abiding enjoyment of Historical Dramas. Granted, history adapted for the screen is no substitute for actual study, as some directors take more artistic license than others. However, in my opinion, to gain exposure to significant events in history, making them come alive on the screen is an excellent place to start reaching the masses!
If you’re in your late 30’s or 40’s, chances are high that you’ve not only seen the movie “Braveheart,” but also that either you or a friend of yours, was obsessed with it back in the late ’90s or early 2000s. While I enjoyed the film, the guys in my college social circle at the time were obsessed with all things “epic,” so to say that I’ve "seen" the Braveheart and Lord of The Rings films is a gross understatement. That said, while much of the Braveheart film was not historically accurate, it was great at capturing the essence of the struggle that did occur.
Fast forward to 2019 and our trip through the Highlands of Scotland where we took a side trip to see Stirling Castle. Why all the Braveheart buildup? Well, if you recall the film (spoiler alert), William Wallace (Mel Gibson) dies, but the film ends with a setup for yet another surge of resistance by Robert the Bruce, whom in the film changed from supporting the English to that of finally taking up the Scottish cause. While not accurate in the film, the setup for Robert the Bruce to become a significant figure in Scottish history does begin where the closing credits of Braveheart end.
Enter stage right, Stirling Castle and Robert the Bruce.
Stirling Scotland
First off, the little village nestled at the feet of this castle is adorable. Second, it’s all on a hill, so don’t forget to use your parking brake!
I’ve been fortunate to have been able to tour a good number of castles around Europe, all from different periods of history, as well as levels of splendor, but this one is special. Not comfortable and luxurious such as what Walt Disney personified, but rather, cold and hard while being deeply rooted in cultural identity and struggle for survival. If there was ever a castle that was haunted, it’s this one.
Just outside the entry gates is a statue of Robert the Bruce, from here you can (on a clear day) also see the Wallace monument which was built on a solitary hilltop nearby.
Stirling Castle
One of the largest and most important castles in Scotland, which is saying a lot when you consider that there are more than 2,000 castles in an area that is roughly the size of the US state of Maine.
Most of the buildings that comprise the castle date from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, with a few even dating back to the fourteenth century, and the outer defenses facing the town dating from the early eighteenth century!
Before uniting with England, Stirling Castle was also one of the most used of the many Scottish royal residences, several Scottish Kings and Queens were crowned at Stirling, including Mary, Queen of Scots, in 1542.
There have been at least eight sieges of Stirling Castle, including several during the Wars of Scottish Independence, with the last being in 1746, when Bonnie Prince Charlie unsuccessfully tried to take the castle.
Largely destroyed by English forces to break the will of Scottish separatism sentiment, the castle has been fully rebuilt and lovingly restored to all of its former glory.
Questions or Comments? Leave me one below!
Top 10 Reasons To Visit Spain
Trip Planning Highlights
If you plan trips the way I do, you find a few things that you might want to see or do and then you plan a trip around those things. To hopefully save you some research time, here’s a short list of my top ten favorite things from my trip to Spain.
#1 - Granada
This city was hands-down my favorite city in Spain. Full of color, energy, and historical charm, Granada is somewhere worth spending four our more days.
#2 - The Alhambra
Located in the already lovely city of Granada, the Alhambra Palace is a visually stunning walk through history. Be sure to designate an entire day to walking though this place, because it’s massive and you’ll not want to miss a single square inch!
#3 - Traditional Flamenco Show
Taking a page from the late travel guru Anthony Bourdain, we took in a traditional flamenco show while in Granada. Shows are readily available, but decided to see one held in the historical cave buildings in the hillside above Granada.
#4 - The Sagrada Familia
I’ve been fortunate to tour some of the most beautiful churches in Europe, but THIS one will take your breath away. I recommend the guided tour as well as booking several months in advance of your arrival.
#5 - Day Trip to Tangier Morocco
As lovely as the southern coast of Spain is, the draw of Morocco was too much for us to resist. just a short boat trip away, organized day trips of Tangier are a great way to spend a day!
#6 - Chocolate Churro’s
As odd as it may sound, churro’s with chocolate are a favorite treat in Spain. We noticed a considerable number of churro places in Seville, so I would suggest taking the time to try one while there rather than waiting to try one in another city.
#7 - Plaza de España
You might recognize this place if you were a fan of the HBO series Game of Thrones, or have researched the locations of the Worlds Fair. It’s a beautiful place to walk around, doesn’t cost anything, and is surrounded by nice parks and gardens to stroll through.
#8 - Paella
Available all over Spain and in an endless number of different combinations and flavors, paella was a highlight of our food journey.
#9 - Helado (ice cream)
I’ll admit to having not been a big ice cream eater before this trip, but somewhere in the combination of the heat, the variety of flavors, and the appealing vendors everywhere you look, I got on board and haven’t looked back.
#10 - Park Güell
Barcelona has some of the most unique architecture of anywhere i’ve ever been, and a walk through this park in Barcelona is NOT to be missed.
Milan Italy Vlog
A lightning fast trip to Milan Italy
Serving as both our starting and ending location for our tour of Northern Italy, Milan deserves more time than we had to spend there. Take a look at what we were able to do while there, and tour the Duomo di Milano with us!
Questions or Comments? Leave them below!!
The Kelpies of Helix Park
Mystical Water Horses & Other Spirits
Something magical exists in Scotland and the people that live (and have lived) there, know it. Spiritualism, mysticism, and magic, or even just the belief in ghosts, are things you might expect to hear discussed among certain social groups here in the U.S., but the reference to these subjects is just part of a normal dialogue in Scotland. So the next time you’re chatting with a local while sipping on a glass of scotch in your hotel lobby and they start telling you about the ghost in the last hotel they stayed in, don’t immediately think of them as being “on the fringe,” think of them as being Scottish
The Water Kelpies of Falkirk
Less than an hour west of Edinburgh is the Helix Park of Falkirk. Not normally one to stop at roadside attractions, I would urge you to make an exception for this one. I stumbled across a picture on the internet, which I then sought out and added a stop to see in person, but if you find yourself driving west on the M9 from Edinburgh toward Glasgow, you’ll not be able to miss it!
A “Kelpie,” or in this case a “Water Kelpie,” is a shape-shifting water spirit that lives in the waters of Scotland. Most typically shown as a horse or human figure, the two kelpies at Helix Park are impressive both in size and design. You can read more about kelpies HERE.
Helix Park, just opened in 2014, is a canal connection between the Forth and Clyde Canal with the River Forth. Longboats traveling the canals can be found here.
Roadside Stops in Scotland
Ordinarily, we prefer to travel by train, but while Scotland does have train connectivity to major cities, a lot of the historical and countryside attractions can not be accessed via that method. For our visit, we picked up a rental car in Edinburgh and decided to take the scenic route.
Less than an hour away, and on our way to visit Stirling Castle, a visit to see the Kelpies is worth making a stop to see.
Questions or Comments? Leave them below!
Seville Spain Vlog
Video Diary Of Two Days Spent in Seville Spain
Follow our family tour of Seville and experience our first attempt at eating snails.
Hot British Buns
British Food Or Something Like It
Let’s face it, when you think of the United Kingdom, great food probably isn’t the first thing to come to mind. Tea, Haggis, Fish & Chips, and Shortbread aren’t all that is consumed there however, and not everything involves beans and sausage.
Man Can Not Live On Deep Fried Mars Bars Alone
When I’m traveling abroad, one of my favorite parts of the travel experience is trying new things, which includes the foods of whatever country it is that I’m visiting. Granted, traveling can sometimes be stressful and in those moments a familiar taste from home can go a long way toward calming anxiety, but as a general rule, I like to eat things that wouldn’t be typically available to me back home.
Enter the deep-fried mars bar.
On my very first trip abroad at the ripe old age of twenty-eight (I won’t tell you what year this was), my girlfriend and I flew to Scotland to visit a friend of mine that I had met while earning my undergraduate degree. Upon meeting us at the Edinburgh airport, the very first thing he did was take us to try a deep-fried mars bar. I was deeply skeptical at first but ultimately enjoyed this gooey goodness beloved by locals in Edinburgh, and while it wasn’t a very “high-brow” thing to try, it helped me to open the door to international food experiences.
Foods To Try The Next-Time You Visit The UK
Start with a cup of tea and all the yummies that typically come with a high-tea service!
Cakes, scones, finger sandwiches, and clotted cream…
Visit a Pub
I’m not really a beer drinker, but when in an actual English Pub… pass me a pint!
Pub Food Can Be Surprising
You MUST have Fish & Chips
I know it might sound weird, but don’t be shy with the vinegar!
British Scones
The scone has not traditionally been my favorite piece of pasty to consume with coffee, or really at any occasion. Dense, crumbly, overloaded with sugar or other fillings, my face gets tired of eating them after just a few bites. However, British scones are something entirely different, and are more like a buttermilk biscuit in texture, although slightly moister, and also slightly sweet without the addition of any sugar topping or extra “dressing.” I am obsessed with British scones and probably ate my weight in them while there.
Lunch is NOT optional
In the States, we’re used to being able to get what we want when we want it, but that’s not always the case elsewhere. On more than one occasion, we found ourselves immersed in a tour, or traveling from one destination to the next, and postponing in favor of a “late lunch.” Unfortunately, that’s not really a thing, at least not in Scotland. If you haven’t eaten by 2 pm, you’re basically out of luck and will have to make do with whatever you can find.
Sticky Toffee Pudding
Among my favorite things about Scotland, is the miracle that is Sticky Toffee Pudding. What an American would describe as a “cake sitting in a sauce,” is a very moist Date Sponge Cake, set in a custard sauce, and covered in a warm toffee sauce. I had this years ago when I visited, and it was just as good as I remembered.
Top 5 Foods To Try in The United Kingdom
Sticky Toffee pudding
Fish and Chips w/vinegar
Deep-Fried Mars Bar
Meat Pies (I recommend the haggis)
British Scones
Have you tried any of the things on this list, and if so, what did you think?
Did I leave anything off that should make the top five?
Leave me a Comment Below!
Lisbon Portugal Vlog
3 Days In Sunny Portugal
Watch our home video documenting our time in Lisbon while my husband does his best as a video tour guide.
A Harry Potter Pilgrimage
A Potterhead Visits the United Kingdom
My love of the Harry Potter franchise began somewhere between the second and fourth films, so sometime between 2002 and 2005. I wish I could say that I had read the books first, but the truth is that I was in college at the time, and let’s face it, ain't no one got time for elective reading.
Never the less, my young adult years of my 20’s and early 30’s were bombarded with the typical stresses of personal identity, romantic entanglements, and rigors of establishing a career track. Adding to the chaos, was the complications of the economic crash of 2008 and the ensuing hangover, many people of my age had just entered the workforce when it happened and had not yet established themselves with any particular employer. However, with a world uncertain and full of daily anxiety, there was Hogwarts to escape to.
In May of 2019, my husband and I took my mother-in-law on a two week trip to the United Kingdom. We started in London, where we stayed in an Airbnb that could have been lifted straight from the set of one of the films before we set off by train to spend the majority of our vacation in Scotland (read more about our experience here).
From London to Edinburgh by way of Platform 9 3/4
While the platform was set at Kings Cross Station in the books, the visual inspiration was that of London’s Euston Station, an embarrassing mix up which J.K. Rowling admitted to in a 2001 interview with the BBC (you can read more about this train experience by clicking HERE)
The Harry Potter Universe Exists in Edinburgh
Considering that much of the first book, and parts of the ensuing books, were written in Edinburgh, the city played no small part in influencing elements of the world that became home to Harry Potter. In the span of just a few short blocks, you see places that will immediately transport you to the wizarding world and where you’ll come face to face with the inspiration for many of the central characters in the story (more about Edinburgh here).
Must-See Places for Harry Potter Fans
The Elephant House - Spoon Cafe
This is where J.K. Rowling (then a very poor, single mother) would go while writing the first couple of books in the series. Many details in the books are places, names, and various other elements of the city directly located near or around this coffee shop.
The Greyfriar’s Kirkyard
More than one character in the series received a name from a headstone located in this grave yard.
Victoria Street
The odd angle of this downward sloped street was the inspiration for the name “Diagon Alley.” Full of life and color, the real-life “Victoria Street” is home to many lovely shops, at least two of which are nods to the Harry Potter series.
The Next Best Thing
Probably the closest thing to Ollivander's Wand Shop is the Museum of Context. The space itself, “No 40 Victoria St,” was formerly Robert Cresser, Brush Shop, founded in 1873, and made and sold paint brushes and brooms.
A step through the door is all that is needed to transport you to the magical world of J.K. Rowling, as the environment of the store is both a striking visual match for what you would expect to see in the world of Harry Potter, but the merchandise is also an array between officially licensed merch from the franchise, as well as actual antiques and oddities.
While there, a wand may have chosen me but I’ll never say which one.
All Aboard For Hogwarts
An absolute nerdgasm experience for me, came much later in the trip when we navigated our way further up into the Highlands. Operating for only portions of the year and running just twice daily, you can take a ride on the Jacobite train, otherwise known as the Hogwarts Express. I’ll go into more detail later in another post.
That’s All Folks
If you have questions or comments or let’s face it, just want to talk about your Harry Potter adventures, leave me a note in the comments!
How To Spend Three Days in Edinburgh
The Friendliest City in the United Kingdom
Edinburgh Scotland, the city you didn’t know that you always wanted to visit, is a delightful place for experienced and novice travelers alike.
A city with visually stunning architecture, lively mood, plenty of walkable attractions, and hands down the friendliest people in the UK, Edinburgh will charm your socks off.
Where to stay in Edinburgh
Having no shortage of accommodations, you can find everything from hostels, vacation rentals, historical boutique hotels, and familiar hotel chains here.
However, something to understand about Edinburgh is that having a car should be avoided at all costs. The charm of this city (particularly Old Town) comes at a cost to drivers, and parking is relegated to the outskirts of the city, but this is also where you’ll find most of the chain hotels. Fortunately, while hilly, the old city is very walkable and if you plant yourself centrally to the train station, you’ll not need a car.
My Recommendation For Where To Stay in Edinburgh
Old Town is lively, quirky, and highly accessible. If you don’t mind a little noise from the surrounding nightlife, the charm of this neighborhood will win you over. However, sidewalks are scant and the roads, while being very pedestrian-friendly, are largely brick or cobblestone and will do a number on your roller bags.
We stayed in a charming Airbnb and were in easy walking distance to shops, the castle, the train station, and everything else we wanted to do.
Three Days of Activities
This was my second time visiting Edinburgh and three days was still not enough time to see everything this city has to offer. However, if you’re limited on time here’s what we did.
Day 1 - Arrival
*As a general rule, regardless of what time of day you arrive in a new city, the process of arrival and accommodation check-in is often a considerable effort.
We arrived in the early evening, just as many of the shops were starting to close down for the night, so we grabbed some fish and chips and then checked into our nearby Airbnb.
Day 2 - Exploration
Probably the busiest day during our time in Edinburgh, I had drafted a list with no less than twenty-five different places that I wanted to checkout depending on how much time and energy we wanted to invest in exploration. Ultimately we didn’t hit everything on the list, but what we did achieve was a list of things that make for a great itinerary to share with you all!
Edinburgh Castle - Arrive first thing in the morning to avoid the crowds, we arrived as soon as they opened and had a wonderful experience with some of the staff working there.
2. Find the Heart of Midlothian - Located beneath your feet on the Royal Mile is a heart with a dark past. A heart-shaped mosaic set among the road bricks outside of the West Door of St Giles High Kirk, the heart is all that remains of one of the United Kingdom’s most heinous prisons, the Old Tolbooth. Local tradition is to spit on it as you pass, and if you read about the history of that prison you’ll understand why.
3. Walk the Royal Mile - Packed with tourists, and loaded with shops more than happy to over-charge you for mostly low-quality merchandise. The royal mile is also great for people watching and listening to local musicians.
4. Visit Victoria Street - Just off of the Royal Mile is one of the most charming streets you’ll find anywhere, and is also one of the most photographed. Walk down this uniquely angled street (which inspired “Diagon” Alley in the Harry Potter series, more for the diagonal angle at which it sets than for the shops it offers). However, some of the best shops I visited in Edinburgh were either on or just off of this street, so a visit is a MUST.
*For Harry Potter fans, a store called the “Museum of Context” is located about halfway down the hill, and is a place you’ll want to visit.
5. Buy A Hat at Fabhatrix - Located at the bottom of Victoria Street is an intersection of Cowgate and Grassmarket, where more shops and eateries worth visiting are located. So too is the Fabhatrix shop, where you can purchase a variety of different styles of headwear made right there in the shop. My husband and I both purchased wool caps that we wore throughout the rest of our trip.
6. Visit Greyfriars Bobby - Just up the street from Fabhatrix is a rather famous little cemetery called Greyfriars Kirkyard. A legend told by locals, is of a Sky Terrier named “Bobby",” who’s owner died and was buried in the Kirkyard, continued to visit his masters grave every day for fourteen years until his death. Various versions of this story exist, but what is agreed on is the love that this community had for Bobby. A pub named “Greyfriars Bobby” is located just adjacent to the kirkyard, and a bronze statue of Bobby is located just out front. Folks rub Bobby’s nose for good luck. We ate a late lunch here and had a lovely experience.
7. Enjoy the Art Scene - There is no shortage of galleries and shops in the Old Town and Cowgate area, so take your time and check some of them out. A regret I have while in this part of town was not stopping at the “Elephant House,” which is a coffee shop in which JK Rowling wrote a large amount of the first Harry Potter books. The inspiration for elements of places and character names were taken from actual places around the coffee shop itself.
8. Eat a Deep Fried Mars Bar - It’s a favorite of the locals in Edinburgh specifically.
9. Take a stroll through the Princess Street Gardens and check out the monument to Sir. Walter Scott.
10. Music can be heard everywhere in Edinburgh, including traditional bagpipes! Follow your ear and go have a wee listen.
Day 3 - Take A Day Trip to St Andrews
With so little time in Edinburgh to begin with, I struggled with whether to take this side trip or not. Ultimately the opportunity to spend an afternoon in the romantic medieval town that had captured my heart ten years earlier won out. Just a short train ride with an easy bus transfer away, St Andrews is an easy place to spend a day. Home to the very first Golf Course, the University of St Andrews (where Prince William and Kate Middleton first met), seaside castle ruins, and shops that are largely catered to locals rather than tourists (we did a lot of shopping here), it's a great place to slow down and try some Sticky Toffee Pudding after a walk through the cathedral ruins.
Just getting started
On our final day in Edinburgh, we checked out of our Airbnb and made our way once again to the train station in Old Town, but this time it was to pick up our rental car. As I’ve mentioned, you don’t want to have to mess with a car while you’re staying here, but for better access to some of the more remote points of interest in Scotland, you’ll want to have wheels.
The rental car options are all located beneath the train station, and as previously mentioned, Edinburgh is very hilly and the data signal is spotty at best. We learned the hard way that depending on our iPhone GPS was a mistake because as my brave husband quickly learned while driving a manual (from the right side of the car) our map wasn’t working and we didn’t know how to navigate ourselves out of town. My recommendations are that if you’ve never driven on the right before, be sure to spring for the GPS package that comes from the rental agency… it was a very stressful hour of guessing our way out of Edinburgh while trying to learn to drive an unfamiliar car.
All things considered
Edinburgh was a delight for both my husband and mother-in-law and didn’t disappoint as a place for a second visit by myself. I would jump at the chance to return and see the large number of things that we didn’t have time to see during this trip. All in all, Edinburgh might be one of my top three favorite cities that I’ve spent time in while abroad, and I can’t recommend it highly enough.
Questions or Comments? Leave me a note in the comments!
Travel By Train From England to Scotland
King’s Cross Station
For Americans the idea of traveling by train is not what immediately comes to mind when planning our vacations, but when the opportunity presents itself while abroad, it should be taken advantage of as often as possible. Travel by train is not only more comfortable and economical, but it also allows for experiences to occur while en route, which aren’t possible while on a bus or plane.
As I mentioned in my previous couple of posts about our short stay in London, the main focus of our trip was to chauffeur my mother-in-law around the Scottish Highlands. Borrowing a page from a trip I had taken with a girlfriend of mine ten years prior, I decided that taking the train would be the perfect way to kick-off that leg of this trip.
What to do with extra time at King’s Cross
If you’re like most travelers and find that you have a gap of time between when you have to check out of your accommodation and when your train leaves the station, there’s a lot of things to do right around the station itself.
King’s Cross is the largest train station in London, with multiple trains departing for Edinburgh each day. The station itself is very easy to navigate and has been recently renovated.
We arrived about three hours early, and simply checked in our luggage at a ticketed passenger holding area. I don’t recall exactly how much it cost, but I want to say that it was less than $10 to securely stow our bags until it was time to actually hit the dusty trail.
Unencumbered by our luggage, we walked a short distance of just a couple of blocks to Granary Square and visited several nearby shops. An unexpected delight of this particular area was the longboats that dock here and open as little shops and eateries!
Platform 9 3/4
If you’re an unashamed “Potter Head” like myself, you’ll be excited to know that King’s Cross is where you’ll find the famous platform from the Harry Potter series. Funnily enough, this isn’t where the films were actually shot but is where the platform was set in the books (a mixup that J.K. Rowling later admitted to). I couldn’t resist the opportunity to snag a picture at the staged platform here just as I had done ten years earlier.
All aboard!
When you’re all done dilly-dallying and it’s time to go, the fun is just beginning! Board your train, stow your luggage, and then enjoy the ride.
Questions of Comments? Leave me a note!