Two Days in Zurich Switzerland
How We Maximized 50 Hours
There’s a delicate line to be found between “over-scheduled” and “maximized opportunity,” and I’m the queen of erring on the less desirable side of the two. It never fails that when I start planning a trip, I find far too many “once in a life-time” or “not to be missed” opportunities in one too many destinations to squeeze into a single trip, but how do you decide what to skip?!
Planning with Purpose
Whether you intentionally plan trips with a “purpose” or not, everyone does. For some, the purpose is simply to fulfill a vision of sleeping in, discovering what’s in a city as you walk past it, or to simply get a tan. There’s nothing wrong with simple plans like the above, and in fact, it makes it easier to demonstrate the following construct of purpose driven trip planning.
Example. If your goal for a trip is to simply wear sandals and get a tan on the beach, then some things to consider with this goal in mind, might be the following:
What’s the weather like at the time of year that you’re considering a visit to this destination?
How much time do you need to take to accomplish your tan?
If you’re traveling with a partner or friend, are your goals for the trip perfectly in sync, or does one of you desire to take a day to go shopping or take a tour, or both?
The moral of the story, is that trip activities can quickly runaway with you and at the end of it, you might leave without having felt like you got the tan that you wanted.
Our Purpose for Switzerland
Like many, my husband was unable to celebrate a milestone during the COVID-19 Pandemic in the way he would have wished. In this case, his 40th birthday had always been a birthday that we intended to celebrate abroad, but international travel in January of 2021, was not in the cards. However, things had improved by December of 2021 and we decided to take our chances and brave a trip to Europe.
What I’ve seen of Europe has all been amazing which can make it difficult to choose a single destination out of the many diverse locations available. However, I thought that this trip might be better spent focusing on things relevant to my husband, and in this vein, I thought it the perfect opportunity for a mini pilgrimage. A few years prior, he had inherited a wristwatch from his grandfather after his passing. The watch no longer worked, but was a luxury timepiece which his grandfather had himself purchased in Switzerland in the early 1970’s. Ding, ding, ding… light-bulb moment!
I contacted the manufacturing headquarters of the watch brand (located in Switzerland) and asked if we would be allowed to physically deliver the watch back to them for repair, rather than simply taking it to a local jeweler/dealer and having them ship it to Switzerland on our behalf. Fortunately, they said yes, and that they would ship it back to us when the work was completed.
With the central activity of our trip established, the rest of our adventure could unfold much more easily now knowing what we needed to work around. Ultimately, we decided to limit our time in Switzerland, and to focus solely on the delivery of the watch to the factory, then we would border hop to Austria in time for New Years Eve in Salzburg. The way this worked out was thus:
Depart USA December 28th
Arrive in Zurich Switzerland (approximately 9 AM) December 29th
Take a 2 hour - Old Town Zurich, cultural walking tour, starting at 2 PM December 29th
Depart via train to Biel/Bien Switzerland, 10 AM December 30th (location of the manufacture)
Deliver the watch to the factory
Return via train to Zurich, 3 PM December 30th
Depart via train to Salzburg Austria 11 AM, December 31st
If you do the math, we spent VERY little time in Zurich, but it was long enough to make the following observations:
Zurich is beautiful - Super clean, beautiful buildings, lots of greenery despite being very urban and cosmopolitan… hell, even the people are pretty!
Zurich is extremely expensive! I expected it to be high, but my expectation of high cost was wrong by about half. Our first evening there, we ate dinner at a vegetarian salad-bar and drank hot tea with our self-served meals, and it cost roughly $75 for the two of us. You’ve been warned.
It’s hard for me to know what the impact of COVID-19 may have had on the operational hours of the retail industry at the time we were there, but everything that wasn’t a restaurant or bar, would close by 6 pm, which made for an extremely harrowing experience trying to purchase a box of Swiss chocolates for my mother in-law before we left. Had I known that the hours would have been so limited, I would have arranged my shopping time differently in our schedule.
In summary, I probably wouldn’t go back to Zurich outside of just using the airport, it was just too expensive for me to enjoy. However, knowing what the prices in areas outside of the city are like, and knowing how beautiful the country is, I would 100% go see more of Switzerland.
The Sound of Salzburg Austria
The hills are alive in Salzburg Austria.
The hills are indeed alive in Salzburg and even if you’ve never seen the Rodgers & Hammerstein musical, you’ll still benefit from the musical education.
Sound of Music Tours
When planning our recent trip to Salzburg, booking a theme tour was not a “to-do” item on our list, let alone a theme tour for a film that was released in 1965. I also must admit that I was unaware that the musical tale of the Trapp family was a true story, not that knowing this detail would have changed my mind about booking one of the many film tours available. However, one of the things I dearly love about travel is finding myself in the state of mind to “go with the flow,” which opens me up to more spontaneous experiences, and this is where our trip to Austria took a musical turn.
Much to my surprise and delight, the COVID-19 pandemic forced a delay in both the starting and ending dates for the annual Christmas markets throughout Austria, which means that many of them were still operational during our visit in late December and early January. It was while investigating a glass tree ornament stall that I happened to meet a fellow American killing time while waiting for new years eve festivities to begin, he revealed himself to be an ex-pat who had been living there for several years and made his living giving Sound of Music tours. It was still a couple of hours before midnight, and he graciously offered to help us pass the time by giving us the portion of his multi-hour tour which covered the area of town we were currently in.
To make a very long story somewhat shorter, we took him up on his offer and then decided to take the remaining portion of his tour a couple of days later. He had generously offered not to charge us, but we decided to pay him anyway given the extensively detailed nature and level of effort he invested into his program. We learned more information about this film/family than I may ever know about anything else on earth.
Comparing Trapp Family Tours
As mentioned above, I didn’t bother to research the differences in the many Sound of Music tours offered in Salzburg, but if you decide to go, you’ll find no shortage of these themed tours available to book. However, once you’re there, you'll probably notice that most of these tour groups all look the same, and they all occur by the busload, generally go to the same places, and all seem to focus exclusively on film facts and less on the real Trapp family story as it related to the film.
The tour we took was not one that you’ll probably find on the major tourism planning sites but is absolutely the one you should consider if you’re seeking a tour for either film fan or pop-culture reasons. My husband couldn’t remember if he had seen the film or not, but was fascinated by the factual elements of the family experience as it related to the war. You also see portions of the city that you probably would never notice or even take the trouble to go see, but that ultimately added to that coveted “off the beaten path” experience that all travelers crave but few achieve.
If you’re willing to invest in an education that doesn't require a student loan and that you wont regret in ten years, you should take a look at TrappFamilyBikeTours.com.
Hollywood Magic Meets Reality
I would be doing both you and John (the tour operator… he’s a hoot) a disservice by going into the nuts and bolts of what you’ll see on the tour, but suffice it to say that Hollywood magic and artistic license took HUGE liberties with the Trapp family story. One example I’ll give is that the Trapp family home (in the film) is a combination of multiple homes located in Salzburg as well as a set built on a sound stage in Hollywood. John, however, showed us not only the filming locations for pivotal parts of the film but also actual locations pertinent to the family. He went into great detail to separate fact from film fiction, which made for a very enriching experience.
If you’ve visited Salzburg and taken one of these theme tours, or have any specific questions, feel free to place them in the comments.
Historic Scottish Woolmill
Some Good Lookin’ Wool
As a follow-up to my post about the working sheepdogs of Leault farm and the sheep that live and are sheared there, here’s a post about the next step in the farm to product lifecycle of wool.
Knockando Wool Mill
Tucked away in the Highlands, this historical working wool mill was a delightful way to spend a few hours and finally answered some of the pesky questions (I’ve never asked) about how yarn is made. Complete with machinery in operation since the time of Queen Victoria, you’ll see and learn about what happens to wool from arrival from the farm to neatly tagged and folded in the gift-shop and many of their products are for sale online!
The Tour
A top-notch crew of volunteer tour guides conducts scheduled visits to the mill for a very reasonable rate and you can schedule and pay through the website.
In case you’re wondering, we purchased the pile of products in the last photo, two scarves, and a blanket. Fortunately for us, they shipped them for us so we didn’t have to figure out how to fit them in our luggage.
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The Working Sheepdogs of Scotland
Dogs With Jobs
Chances are good that you’ve probably seen a video or three on YouTube of border collies magically directing a herd of sheep into some sort of Christmas themed shape on a hillside somewhere, but I wanted to see them in person. After a brief google search, I was in contact with Leault Working Sheepdogs, a working sheep farm about an hour and a half from Inverness Scotland.
A family-run operation, I was more than happy to pay the small ticket price they requested to attend a demonstration of the dogs at work, a sheep being sheared, and getting to meet both a newly born lamb and some very new puppies. Information not known before our arrival, however, is that there are no bathrooms on-site and in the event of rain you can expect to get wet!
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Two Days in Denver
A Domestic Covid19 Vacation Idea
Pandemic fatigue is a very real thing and while unnecessary travel, while cases are spiking around the country, is not something I would recommend at the moment, planning a little getaway when things are a little more in hand might be just what the doctor ordered for addressing the stay at home blues.
Two Days In The Mile High City
Having not spent much time in downtown Denver in the past I was surprised to find that the downtown core is undergoing efforts at revitalizing itself. With a variety of creative little boutiques and bars, the amount of fun things to do is on the rise, making the need for a car to take you to the suburbs less and less necessary.
Le Meridian Hotel Downtown Denver
Once again utilizing our Marriot rewards, we parked ourselves in the well-located Le Meridian Hotel. With the majority of our time spent walking around downtown, we did make time to visit the rooftop bar at the hotel itself.
A Downtown Walkabout
On our second and only full-day visiting the city, we walked extensively and explored wherever our feet would take us. We grabbed brunch at this quaint historical cafe, walked by the museum of modern art, and poked around inside of union station.
The Dairy Block
The most surprising gem we stumbled upon during our time about town was The Dairy Block. Creative use of space, the project is a collection of mini restaurants, boutiques, bars, and bakeries all owned and operated by a collective investment group.
Heading Home
Our experience in the Denver Airport was great, well distanced, and made my husband and I feel safe as we traveled back home to the safety of our bubble.
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Scottish Highland Distilleries
Share With The Angels
Brown liquor is as varied as the people that drink them and when visiting a part of the world that’s known for something as popular as Scotch Whiskey, you owe it to yourself to devote at least a little bit of time to exploring it in its motherland.
Distillery Tours
Not a scotch lover myself, I do enjoy bourbon whiskey and am 100% on board with learning how to appreciate something other than my regular and more familiar go-to’s. That said, do yourself a favor the next time you’re in Scotland and visit at LEAST one but more like two or three distilleries and experience the variety of scotch being produced there.
With that in mind, we would have loved to have visited more than what we did but only had time for one full tour, but we visited four of them and either did tastings or just visited the gift shops and onsite museums.
Oban Distillery
Nestled within the seaside community of Oban in county Argyle on the west coast of Scotland, this distillery is convenient to visit if you plan to venture over the Inner Hebrides islands because Oban is one of the primary ferry port towns.
Be sure to reserve your tour in advance if that’s what you want to do, we didn’t and were only able to visit the showroom.
Tobermory Distillery
This little distillery was my favorite scotch experience because of the quaint setting. The village of Tobermory is located on the northern tip of the island of Mull, which will require you to take a ferry from Oban, but the extra effort is well worth it (for more on the Isle of Mull, click HERE). Bonus, the scotch made at this distillery (called LeDaig) is not available in the United States, so take the opportunity to try something new!
Glen Ord Distillery
Moving further north into the Highlands is the Glen Ord Distillery best known for making Singleton Scotch. We chose to do a proper tour here and we had a wonderful experience! I would definitely recommend booking this tour in advance.
Glenlivet Distillery
For our final “wee” dash of scotch exploration, we paid a visit to the tasting room for Glenlivet because it’s a favorite of my father-in-law. Probably the most elaborate showroom of all the distilleries we visited, you can even get a meal in their onsite cafe. There’s a large amount of merchandise and bottles available to purchase here, so did a little Christmas shopping while there.
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On Horseback In The Highlands
Scottish Pony Power
Perhaps sightseeing by horseback is something that is more easily equated with a visit to a more “Americana” locale, but it’s a unique way to view the rugged terrain of the Scottish Highlands as well!
Finding an outfit that offered pony trekking in the area that would make sense for our itinerary was a bit of a challenge and while it still required us to drive an hour into the middle of nowhere to a place called “Cougie,” the experience at “Highland Trekking & Trail Riding” was well worth the trouble. We learned more about the modern culture of the Highlands from our guide than from any other resource on our trip. Information such as that in the northeastern part of the highlands often gets several feet of snow at a time during the winter months, which I never would have guessed.
Our trail guide and one of the owners, Ian.
But There’s More…
We also learned just how seriously the Scotts take climate change, which might sound like an odd subject for a trail ride, but we saw it first hand and were fortunate to have someone there that could explain it to us.
As our merry band of pony riders entered a large treeless meadow (and when I say “treeless,” I mean full on Fern Gully land rape status), I had to ask what had happened to all of the foliage. Ian explained that before starting the pony trekking business just a few years earlier, he had worked as a second-generation logger in that very area. He went on to say that while the landscape appeared to be in a bleak state, it was done for a very good reason because over many decades as timber had been cut down and replanted, the natural ecosystem had been heavily impacted by the introduction of non-native tree varieties and wildlife. To combat the shift in the Scottish ecosystem, the Scottish government decided to rip off the band-aide (so to speak) and remove everything non-native at all at once and allow only native plants and wildlife to return to the area.
‘There’s History In Them There Hills’
Another amazing story we heard as we crisscrossed the hills, was that our guide (Ian) had stumbled across an old sword in the peat moss, a claymore to be more precise. Doing some detective work, he discovered that a skirmish during the Jacobite uprising had fought in that area and was most likely left hidden in the spot where it had fallen sometime around 1745. He donated to the local historical society, but I would have had difficulty not keeping such an amazing artifact.
“Whoa Nelly…”
An unplanned excitement during our ride occurred while riding through a moor (for an explanation of this please follow the link), which was very uneven land pocked full of shallow holes and piles of peat. Toward the front of pony pack was my mother in-law, a very accomplished western style horsewoman. Unbeknownst to her, one of these shallow but wide holes suprised both her and her pony (Spyder was his name), but Spyder rose to the occasion (literally) and decided to leap over it. Sadly my mother in-law was not as prepared as Spyder was and she breathlessly toppled right off! You might think that such an event would raise a ruccus, but Ian, our faithful but seemingly unconcerned trail guide, simply shouted from the back of the group in his thick scottish accent, “ya’ll right there girlie?”
The good news is that yes, she was just fine, and had landed on a soft and spongy mound of peat moss… natures cushion.
Home Is Where The Barn Is
Bumped pride and all, we greatly enjoyed our ride in the Highlands and our time with Ian. I can’t speak for what image comes to mind when you think of Scottish Highlander, but for me, Ian was very much it. Loud, hilarious, full of stories, and a beard that still holds a wee bit of a grudge against England.
Questions or Comments? Leave me a note below!
Normandy Coast Vlog Tour
History Comes Alive in Normandy
It may feel like a movie set more than a real place but I assure you that it’s like no other place you’ve been before!
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W Hotel Aspen - A Review
“A Little Place Called Aspen…” Part Two
If you read my previous post about our stay in Aspen (available HERE), this is the second installment and official review of our stay at the W Hotel in Aspen Village.
The W Hotel
I think a dream job for my husband and I both would be to visit and stay at hotels, at least hotels that put forth as much care and attention to detail as what Marriott does. From the moment we pulled up our car out front we were greeted with helpful, smiling staff, that volunteered information to questions that they knew to anticipate me asking, they make everything easy. Once inside the door, the front desk staff offered us chilled champagne and assistance with our luggage, and helped ease our transition from being “in transit” to “being on vacation.”
The Room
An advantage to loyalty member programs is the fact that when you hit certain milestones you receive hotel perks when available. In the case of this particular stay we were upgraded to a room with a “partial mountain view,” which in reality was just a peekaboo view above the roof line of the neighboring building, but sometimes can be a substantial improvement.
Outdoor Spaces
The reason for staying at the W Hotel is the combination of the rooftop and the physical proximity of the hotel to Aspen Village. The hotel offers two lovely rooftop common spaces, one offering pool/ hot tub and bar, and the other offering a more serene breakfast and cocktail environment. We made great use of the hot tub and ate breakfast in the fresh morning air each day of our stay and if afternoon treats are more your style, you’ll love the super cute little ice cream stand out front!
In conclusion
Aspen is a must and if you’ve got points, I recommend the W for quality and location but would still be open to staying elsewhere on future trips back.
Questions or Comments? Leave me a note.
The Jacobite Train Goes To Hogwarts
A Roundtrip Thrill Ride
I know you’ve been waiting on the edge of your seat for my much-teased post about my ride on the Jacobite train, and the wait is finally over!
Fort William
Made famous as in the Harry Potter films as the train that carries all of the young wizarding students from the magical Platform 9 3/4 in Kingscross station in London to Hogwarts, the Hogwarts Express is a beautiful steam train that travels between Fort William and Mallaig in the Scottish Highlands. Operating only part of the year and just twice daily, getting a ticket on the Jacobite train can be difficult considering that the two seated cars train has a very limited number of seats.
While planning our trip to Scotland this was one of the very first activities I looked into after purchasing our flights, which wasn’t a moment too soon. Three months before the date that would make sense for us to ride this train, there were not three seats (together or separate) available round-trip in either first or second class.
Something to keep in mind is that the cars which you would have seen in the films are the first-class cars, and while the second class is charming and nice, the first-class is what my fellow Potter-Heads are going to want.
However, determined to chase down every possible option, I discovered that a more modern commuter train also shares the same tracks as the Jacobite, so I was able to book three one way tickets on the Jacobite and three one way tickets on the modern train (this was also a massive cost-saver).
Something else to know when you arrive at Fort William station is that parking is a bit of a nightmare so be sure to arrive early enough to allow time to wait for a parking spot.
All Aboard!
As I mentioned above, there are just two cars with seating and three kinds of seating between them. Also mentioned above is that the seating shown in the Harry Potter films is what is only available in the first-class cars, and the two first-class cars owned by the rail company do differ slightly meaning that the actual car used in the movie might not be the one you get to ride in. However, you’ve got a 50/50 chance, and no matter what it’s going to feel special because some of the details shown in the film were digitally added and were never part of the train, to begin with.
First-Class on The Jacobite Train
In the first-class car, there are private cabins such as what Harry and his friends traveled in on the train, while the other two kinds of seating options are beautiful armchairs with tables and include tea service. This option comes as a non-facing and facing option (you can look into the face from sitting across from you, or not).
Second-Class On The Jacobite Train
As was the case in first-class, there are a couple of different seating options in the second car. There are seats that face forward, and there are seats that face each other. We purchased tickets that face each other with a table. Before you feel too disappointed about not being in first-class, you should know that the second-class car is still a historical car but has been retrofitted with modern seats and tables. Additionally, you still get the option to purchase tea and snacks prior to your ride, or from the concessions counter.
Other Things To Know About the Jacobite Train
Bathrooms
This was something that I never found an answer to prior to our ride, but yes, there is a bathroom between the cars, which they both lock and unlock during certain stretches of the journey.
Merchandise
There are exactly three cars in addition to the Engine and Coal car that make up the Jacobite train, the first of these additional three being the First-Class car, followed by the Second-Class car, and then the gift and concessions car. The gift stand sells both Harry-Potter merchandise and themed candies, but they also sell a limited selection of Jacobite Train collectors merchandise.
The Train Route
Taking off from Fort William, the Jacobite makes one stop at Glenfinnan Station before terminating at the end of the line in Mallaig.
Glenfinnan Station
Probably about 20 minutes is the approximate amount of time you’ll spend at this historical station. It’s just a small little place, but a great time to stretch your legs and take some pictures.
Glenfinnan Viaduct Photography
Beautiful by any observer but extra special for Harry Potter fans, the Glenfinnan viaduct is part of the iconic journey to Hogwarts, getting a photo is coveted and can be achieved with preparation. Here are the questions I had before I attempted to get the photo, as well as the answers that no one could give me.
Q. I want to be able to take a picture of the front of the train while going over the viaduct, so what side of the car should I be sitting on?
A. Technically you’ll want to be facing south, but the reality is that it’s not possible to choose your seats in advance and be able to know which way the car will be oriented, so don’t prioritize this.
Q. What point on the train gives you the best angle for taking the best picture?
A. Because the train will be on a curve, the further away from the engine you get, the better and more apparent that “bend” will be. The first-class car is closest to the engine, but taking a picture from the first-class car will be the least ideal. I took my photo from the space between the first and second class cars, and while I didn’t have to compete for window space at the crucial moment, the vantage point would have been much better from the back of the second class car, or the window space between the second-class car and the next further back car.
Q. When should I be ready to take the picture?
I couldn’t get any information about when the viaduct would come into play during our ride, so I stood at the designated spot that I staked out for nearly an hour before we arrived at the viaduct. Sit down, enjoy your ride, and after about 30-40 min, go find your spot to take your photo. The viaduct is a large clear area and you’ll see it coming. Also, everyone is going to be sticking their phones out the window to snap a pic at the key moment, but it takes long enough to go over the viaduct to allow for several shots to be taken and then allow others to take theirs…. share the space to cut down on the number of other phones you see in your pictures. Also, you’ll go over the viaduct right before you stop at the Glenfinnan station when heading west.
What To Do In Mallaig
First of all, there’s very little to do here and you’ll need to be prepared to kill some time before you make your return trip to Fort William. There’s a small art gallery that we enjoyed but spent WAY more time in than we would have done if there had been other things to do, but as was the case at the time, the alternatives where a small grocery store, an itty bitty Harry Potter themed alley shop called Hagrids hut (or something like that), an outdoor outfitter shop, coffee shop, and one small lunch place right by the train station. Visit all of those places and you’ll probably still be watching the clock until it’s time to get back on the train.
Questions or Comments? Leave me a note!
Top 10 Reasons To Visit Vietnam
My Highlights From Vietnam
We visited in early January, so the weather had both an impact on the activities we were able to do, as well as our enjoyment of those activities.
#1 - Street Food Tour
There’s no shortage of street food tours available on TripAdvisor and Viator, and there’s no need to spend more than $40 per person (on the VERY high side) to have an amazing experience. For more about our experience in Hanoi, click HERE.
#2 - Hoa Lo Prison
Part of going to a place like Vietnam is learning about not just the history of the country, but also the impact that our country has played on it. A visit to Hoa Lo prison is covered in another post HERE.
#3 Dong Xuan Market - Hanoi
Dong Xuan Market is housed within a four-story Soviet-style building on the northern edge of Hanoi Old Quarter. If you discover that you may not have packed a sweater or a pair of shorts, you’ll have no shortage of options here!
#4 Egg Coffee
Trust me, you want to try this odd beverage while you’re here!
#5 Location
A great advantage of Hanoi is lower humidity than what you’ll find in the south, but when flying into Hanoi you’re also very well poised for multiple side trips to either the coast or to the mountains! We so badly wanted to visit Sapa but the weather was not ideal in January.
#6 Ha Long Bay
Just a few short hours by bus or private car from Hanoi, Ha Long Bay is a beautiful UNESCO site that you don’t want to miss! Read more about our experience HERE.
#7 Custom Tailoring
If you find yourself in central Vietnam with at least three days available to you, you should get some custom clothes made! Read more about my experience HERE.
Aspen Summer Break
“A Little Place Called Aspen”
In this episode of “I have to get out of town but can’t go overseas because of COVID,” we’re visiting the crown jewel of Colorado luxury destinations, a little place called Aspen.
Taking just a week away to visit Colorado, we spent three nights and four days in what is my new favorite Colorado summer destination, but here are a few things you should know.
Getting There
There are a few different ways that you can get to Aspen, however the most obvious is to fly directly into Aspen, or to fly into Denver and then drive the rest of the way… I mean, who doesn’t enjoy a nice view while in the car? A less obvious alternative is horseback, but that might have been preferable to what happened to us.
We chose to fly into Denver, rent a car, and then drive the brief 3.5 hours west to Aspen. It was an easy drive, scenic, and validated our choice to save on flight cost by going into Denver rather than Aspen. That was at least until it was time to go back to Denver, in which case the Colorado wildfires and a couple of jack-knifed tractor-trailers forced the closure of I-70, sending us way out of our way with a nearly nine-hour drive.
The moral of the story, cheaper isn’t always better, so drive Colorado at your own risk.
Stay
We’re big fans of utilizing hotel loyalty programs and with multiple Marriott concept hotels to choose from, we opted to stay at the W Aspen. The staff was very friendly and helpful, the location was perfectly walkable to everything in Aspen Village, and the amenities were excellent. I’ll share more about our experience at the W in another post.
Another hotel option that landed on our radar once we arrived, however, was the Hotel Jerome. While we did not see any of the rooms at this historical hotel, the lobby was next level. We did get drinks and some bites at the outdoor dining concept for the hotel.
Experience
With just three days in the Aspen area, I had to make an effort not to overschedule us as I’m known to do, so I wanted to pick a singular activity that would be memorable and fun for both of us. I chose Stand-up Paddle-boarding (SUP) at North Star Nature Preserve just outside of town. That said, due to a drought in Colorado, the water is very low, and use is somewhat restricted, but we still very much enjoyed the experience!
Shop
Hello, vacation! I’ll be the first to admit that Aspen is not what I would consider being a “budget” destination, although you can be frugal. Part of what I loved about Aspen was the high-end shopping experience that I don’t have back home, so you might say that window shopping is a favored leisure activity for me. That said, there are a variety of stores and if you look hard enough you might still find some solid gold nugget deals. I purchased a vintage suede jacket that I found at an antique store, and also splurged a little bit and got a custom Stetson hat from Kemo Sabe.
Eat
Come hungry and leave happy by taking advantage of the diverse food scene in Aspen. Since we're not made of money and in the interest of being frugal, we utilized a daily dining credit at our hotel which we used for breakfasts in exchange for declining housekeeping service, this saved us about $50 per day.
For lunches, we mainly stuck to budget-friendly sandwich shops and gastropubs, but what would a vacation be without the occasional spendy evening out? Not frugal by any measure, but worth every penny, we did treat ourselves at a French Pan-American restaurant called Betula. With a romantic/modern vibe, Betula is a great option for special occasions or date nights and is the perfect option for dinner or dessert and a nightcap, I highly recommend it!
Tips & Summary
Of the things I wish had known or done differently concerning the planning of our weekend getaway to this destination, I present you with the following list:
Don’t be cheap - Fly into the Aspen airport and save yourself time and potential driving headaches
Don’t rent a car - You do not need a car if staying in Aspen village and parking is both limited and expensive (particularly during the winter ski season)
Leave your nice high heels at home ladies - The brick roads and walkways will murder the material and caps of your more delicate spiked heels
Expect to pay 20% or more for everything, because it’s Aspen
Give yourself time to relax and take in the scene - Aspen was made for people watching so give yourself time to get bored of sitting at sidewalk cafes or in the hot tub while taking in the mountain views!
Questions or comments? Leave me a note below!
A Weekend Escape To Springfield
Vacation Close To Home
When you don’t have a ton of time or can’t afford to go very far, consider a weekend in exotic southwest Missouri, more specifically, Springfield Missouri.
Where To Stay
Hands down the Vandivort is the place to stay for a great change of pace! For a full review of the Vandivort Hotel, see my other post HERE.
Where To Eat
One of the best parts of vacationing is eating at new places and Springfield has a fantastic mix of startups, established eateries, and everything in between.
Starting with breakfast, here are two great options worth checking out that fall on different ends of the ambiance spectrum.
Gailey’s Breakfast Cafe
Located downtown and across the street from the Vandivort, Gailey’s has traditional breakfast foods served up in a classic Americana diner, the coffee is good and biscuits are warm, but you might want to call ahead as the wait for a table can get pretty long.
2. Tea Bar & Bites
This place is as cute as a button and is tucked away in the charming Raintree neighborhood (not far from downtown by car). Despite a limited rotating menu, this place will NOT disappoint, but get there early as seating is limited and the pastry items sell out fast!
3. Rountree
Located at the intersection of Pickwick Avenue and Cherry Street is a collection of eateries and taverns so tasty that you may find yourself going back day after day. With at least eight different places to choose from, this is a great option for anyone wanting a variety of different things to eat ranging from kimchi fries to kombucha.
4. The Cow’s Pajamas
This mobile frozen treat vendor is cute as a button, and while they do move around, we paid them a visit at the Route 66 Food Truck Park which was definitely worth a stop on its own!
5. Cafe Cusco
This delightfully colorful Peruvian inspired eatery will have you feeling like you’re a jet setter!
What To-Do
Having been built since I finished college, I’d never taken the time to visit the Wonders of Wildlife on any of my return visits to Springfield, but this being more of a mini-vacation made it feel like the time to go.
In Closing
There are a thousand other little things I could suggest, but at the end of the day, I have to bring this post to a close. With this in mind please feel free to ask questions in the comments below or shoot me an email!
Oban The Gateway To The Isles
Tour Argyll and Spend Time By The Sea
If you’re planning to do a semi thorough tour of the Highlands, a visit to the county of Argyle should be on your list for several reasons.
An Itinerary
We chose to rent a car and drive from Edinburgh to Oban and make a few roadsides stops along the way, but we didn’t anticipate the slowness of the roads in comparison with the more direct interstate system that we have in the United States. Knowing what I know now, here is what I would suggest as a better alternative:
Pick up your rental car in Edinburgh first thing in the morning
Stop at Helix Park and check out the Kelpies
Stop in Stirling and tour Stirling Castle (which closes in the late afternoon)
Drive through The Trossachs National Park and catch a glimpse of Loch Lomond
Then call it quits for the day and hunker down in a nice little B&B for the night
Continue the journey the next morning and make your first stop at Inveraray Castle and take a tour of the home still occupied by the Duke and Duchess of Argyll
Complete the remaining distance to Oban during the daylight and in time for dinner (things close early there).
Plan to use Oban as a base for island hopping, and be sure to book your island ferry tours WELL in advance of your arrival. The only island we were able to book standby tickets for was the Isle of Mull, but we waited until the day before we wanted to go, to attempt booking the tickets. I recommend that you look into visiting:
Mull
Iona
Staffa
Where To Stay
There is no shortage of B&B’s or other small hotels here, but you’ll not find much in the way of larger chains. However, the Oban Bay Hotel is part of a small, local chain of hotels, and is ideally located on the water’s edge. Dripping with Victorian charm, the hotel common areas had been recently renovated to a very comfortable and charming standard, while other areas of the hotel were still closed (as of the time that we stayed in May of 2019) for renovation. That said, while we were very excited that they offered a small number of family-style rooms that were a lifesaver on our budget, the room was very basic, the carpet was threadbare, and the water in the shower was either ice cold or melt your face off hot. I would suspect that room renovation was probably on the “to-do” list for them and if so, would stay here again.
What To Do in Oban
As mentioned previously, there’s not a whole lot to do here, and most of the shops were very touristy. However the town is not without charm, and we never did take advantage of two of its main attractions. The most famous being McCaig’s Tower, an unfinished project resembling a Roman Colosseum. The second attraction, which we didn’t even realize was there until we were about to leave, was Dunollie Castle, which is a castle ruin overlooking the water and is open to the public.
We did, however, pay a visit to the Oban Distillery, which is both interesting and relatively unique among the plethora of distilleries in Scotland.
The Show Must Go On
Our time in Oban marked the half-way point of our time in Scotland, so there’s lots more to come as we continue our journey north, up the west coast of the Scottish Highlands.
Questions or Comments? Leave me a note below.
A Little SoHo in SoMo
The Vandivort Hotel Does Springfield Proud
Whatever you might think about southwest Missouri or towns like it, first-class boutique hotels probably don’t factor into your opinion, that might need to change.
With many folks making heavy revisions to their summer travel plans such as replacing a trip to Greece with something closer to home, now is the time to take a look at cities that have largely flown below the travel seekers radar. Springfield Missouri, home of Missouri State University, the birthplace of the comedic geniuses behind the viral “Instagram Husbands” video, and headquarters of Bass Pro is also home to a first-class boutique hotel called the “Vandivort.”
Boutique or Bust
2020 has been a year of disappointment and much anxiety for a lot of folks and even if illness or other financial concerns haven’t factored into your daily life, the general stress of changing regulations, social limitations and political upheaval has us all feeling a need to escape our everyday routine. If you also had your summer plans dashed by COVID19, it's still possible to take a break and get out of the house, in a place you might not have previously considered.
My husband and I love to travel and typically it's to places like Paris and New York, but sometimes a night in a nice hotel is just what the doctor ordered to scratch that "travel itch.” Just a short three-hour drive from Kansas City is the third-largest city in Missouri and what I would argue is the best boutique hotel in the state.
My Hotel Review
An issue I have with many hotels is that often the lobbies and common areas are beautiful and welcoming, but then you enter your room (queue the wah-wah trombones). Generic carpet, generic wall art, bed linens that feel like they are intended to last for the long haul, and is entirely devoid of the charm seen at the hotel entrance.
The Vandivort is different, it’s been thoughtfully appointed from top to bottom and from the inside out. The flooring and lighting fixtures are designer quality, and the decoration is carefully curated. Two buildings make up the entirety of the hotel, the original building which houses “The Order,” the in-house restaurant, the main lobby, and a series of bathrooms that have a surprising life of their own.
The second building referred to as “V2,” is a new construction building that was built to the same level of charm and high-quality finish of the original and historical main hotel. The bonus space in V2 is a beautiful rooftop cocktail bar known as “Vantage.”
Having stayed three times at the Vandivort, twice in the original building, and once at V2, I’ve had the opportunity to experience three different kinds of rooms from different price points. I can say without hesitation that regardless of the room, you’ll receive a quality room with first-rate amenities. The one thing worth noting, which is in no way a criticism of the hotel, is that the location of the hotel is in the heart of downtown Springfield and is near nightlife, so be prepared for a moderate amount of noise depending on the night you stay.
Vantage Rooftop Lounge
#Vandivortbathroomselfie
As I mentioned above, the restrooms located in the main hotel lobby have something special worth mentioning. Intended or not, these individual bathroom pods have PERFECT selfie lighting which has morphed into a “must do” when visiting the Vandivort!
Big City Dreams
Don’t get me wrong, I love coming to Springfield and reconnecting with my college days, but the Vandivort is a higher class experience than what you’ll find anywhere else in Springfield. So, if you’re itching to go to New York but don’t have the time or budget to get that far, try a visit to Springfield! Stay tuned for my post about suggested things to do during your stay.
Questions or Comments? Leave me a note below!
Tobermory and The Isle of Mull
Gem of The Inner Hebrides
Piggybacking on my previous post about our time Oban (click the link to read more), we underestimated the need to reserve ferry tickets in advance for visiting the islands from Oban. My advice to you would be to research the island options in advance and book your tickets early.
The Isle of Mull
As stated above, we did not book our ferry tickets in advance of our arrival in Oban and were shocked to discover on the day before our intended island excursion, that there were no tickets left to purchase. However, they did suggest that we take a chance and purchase standby tickets for the very first departure of the morning.
The next morning, bright and early, we drove our car down to the port and got into the standby line. The car porters are highly efficient and miraculously found a way to not only fit all of the ticketed vehicles but also one extra! We were very relieved to be on our way but would have to cross our fingers that we would once again get lucky with our standby ticket for the return trip that evening.
Getting Around
All ferries departing from Oban will arrive in Craignure, on the southeastern point of Mull, but the town that you’ll most likely want to visit is up on the north end. The Isle of Mull is not exactly a “bustling,” and taking the bus would not be the ideal way to see this place. I recommend that you take a car with you on the ferry, to allow you to drive yourself around on the island and be able to stop at any point that interests you.
Photo Opportunity
The roads on the island are narrow and rarely provide shoulders, so it helps to familiarize yourself in advance of your arrival for anything that you might want to be on the lookout for. I knew in advance of our arrival, of some wrecked boats on the shores of Mull that I would want to stop at, so each time we entered a stretch of road along the shore, I made sure to have my husband slow down and be prepared to park the car.
Tobermory
Nestled into a cozy little harbor and set against a rocky cliff in the picture-perfect postcard village of Tobermory. This quaint little place should be treated with leisure otherwise you’ll be done in five minutes, but if you take your time wandering into each of the little shops you can spend a very happy afternoon here.
At the top of my list is a coffee shop located inside of an old church building, called Toberymory Gallery Shop.
Tobermory Distillery
We had a lovely experience at this distillery, much less commercialized it felt like a special secret that we had discovered while there. Even more exciting is that this particular scotch is not available in the United States, so we were sure to snag a bottle to bring home.
Learning our first little bit of galic during our tasting, we came to understand that “Ledaig” is actually pronounced as “Lay-chick.”
Tobermory Bakery & Tea Room
I’ve already raved about my love of British Scones in a previous post, but here’s another bakery in which I couldn’t pass up on the opportunity to indulge!
Tobermory Cheese Company
Just a short drive from the village of Tobermory is a picture-perfect little farm called Sgriob-ruadh Farm. While the cafe wasn’t exactly open, it was still open for customers to enter and make cheese purchases on the honor system.
Craignure Inn
For the final stop on our Isle of Mull adventure, we ventured inside a little Inn & Pub located near to the ferry port. I kid you not, this place was like something out of a movie, complete with two locals seated at the bar after a round of golf and enjoying a pint. Making matters even more whimsical, the Bartender/Inn Keeper was truly an entertainer that performed magic tricks while we enjoyed a late lunch at a corner table.
Back to Oban
As I mentioned above, we purchased standby tickets for both our outbound and return trip on the ferry, but I want to reinforce how lucky we were to both be able to get there and get back with this kind of ticket. In the photo below you’ll notice our little blue rental car, which was able to be squeezed onboard for both trips, but just by the skin of our teeth!
Comments or Questions? Leave me a note below!
Top 5 Things To Do In Paris
Five Things Not To Be Missed In Paris
I don’t recommend trying to see Paris in just three days, but if that’s all the time you have then here are my top choices for things to see without eating up too much of your limited time.
Sacré-Cœur
When you think of Paris Notre Dame is probably one of the first three things to come to mind, but ever so sadly it might be a very long time before anyone gets the opportunity to set foot inside those beautiful walls. However, an often overlooked church (but very special in its own rite) is the Sacre Coeur, located on a hill top overlooking all of Paris in the coveted neighborhood of Montmatre. The view alone is worth the trip up the hill!
Click HERE for more information about my three day tour of Paris
2. Cocktails at Bar Hemingway
Paris is a city known for luxury, elegance, and a dash of decadence and nothing embodies that better than the famous Ritz hotel. Tucked away in the back of the main floor is an itty bitty little bar made famous by Ernest Hemingway. However, be mindful that with all the luxury comes an equally decadent price, a cocktail here will set you back $30 euros so I would suggest that you start your evening with a single drink here and then you head off to dinner.
3. Dans Le Noir
My husband and I consider ourselves “foodies” and it’s no secret that the visual experience of food has an impact on your opinion of the taste of that food. That said, we jumped at the opportunity to have an entirely new eating experience in which you dine entirely in the dark. We had an amazing time and would highly recommend that you visit Dans Le Noir the next time you’re in Paris.
4. The Ultimate Souvenir
Nothing says “France” like the classic black beret, and while cheap versions made in elsewhere are plentiful, we found a great little shop in the heart of Le Marais called “Chapeaux Du Marais.” We purchased cashmere beret’s made in Paris and the quality was second to none.
5. The Eiffel Tower
As cliche as it may be, seeing this iconic landmark with my own eyes definitely made my heart do a little a dance. We saved this activity for the evening when it would be less busy, and it was totally worth it to see it sparkle! *The lights only run for a few minutes each hour, so be sure to both check the schedule and to time your viewing accordingly.
Questions or Comments? I love discussing Paris, so leave me a note below!
Top 10 Reasons To Visit Northern Italy
Ten Quick Tips
Italy is not short on things to do, places to see, and things to try, but here’s my top ten favorite things about my time in Northern Italy.
Lake Como, Italy
(Click image for more about my time spent around Lake Como)
#1. Lake Como
Romance.
Milan, Italy
#2. Duomo di Milano
Massive, majestic, and worth a viewing, the floors of this cathedral are some of my favorite of any of the cathedrals I’ve toured in Europe.
Everywhere in Italy
#3. Cappuccino
My husband was proud of NOT being a coffee drinker prior to our visit to Italy, however, the cappuccino’s in Italy brought him over to the dark side ;)
Everywhere in Italy
#4. High-speed Trains
Train travel in Italy is a breeze and help make visiting multiple cities a snap!
Burano, Italy
#5. Burano Italy
A small island off the coast of Venice, Burano is known as the “lace” island, but should be known for it’s picture perfect color pallet. Spend a day visiting both Burano and Murano, and don’t forget your camera!
Everywhere in Italy
#6. The Cannoli
While available in lots of places at home, there’s something validating about having one in Italy.
Venice, Italy
(Click the image for more about my time in Venice)
#7. The Doge’s Palace
Infinitely easier to get into than St Mark’s Basilica, the Doge’s palace is history rich, and well worth a half-day.
Venice, Italy
#8. Cafe Lavena
Venice is packed with tourists during the day due to the cruise ship passengers, but sitting out in from of Cafe Lavena in the evening while listening to live music and sipping a beverage or eating a sweet treat as the sun sets… it doesn’t get much better.
Bologna, Italy
(Click image for more information about my time in Bologna)
#9. Le due Torri (The Two Towers)
Bologna is a hidden gem in Italy. Largely overlooked by tourists, Bologna is a slice of authentic Italian life, mixed with the energy of being a college town, and some of the best food we ate in all of Italy!
Everywhere in Italy
#10. Caprese Salad
Unlike the pasta heavy way that Americans approach Italian food, pasta was not the center of attention at any of the restaurants we visited. Consistently available was personal pizza, caprese salad, cured meats, and other delightful things. Given the heat, I practically lived on caprese salad while we were there, because it was refreshing and light.
Questions of Comments? Leave me a note below!
Trip Planning During Covid19
Planning When Nothing Is Certain
We’re now half-way through 2020 and what feels like a lifetime of uncertainty related to Covid19. Regardless of your feelings or opinions about how to address the pandemic in your day-to-day, the fact remains that government-mandated restrictions remain. For those that had plans for big life events or experiences in 2020 holding our breath and crossing our fingers has become the only sport available to watch.
A New Set of Rules
Typically when I plan our trips abroad there are certain key factors that I just don’t challenge the wisdom of and that list starts with avoiding Europe in August. However, due to an unrelated scheduling challenge for my husband this year, the only window of time long enough to go anywhere in 2020 just so happened to be in August which I was NOT thrilled about at the start of the year. However, as everyone around the world is now used to saying, “then COVID happened.”
Trip Planning During Covid19
As much as I wish I could be an authority on the subject it’s simply not possible to build a house on shifting sands, so for those that keep asking me what is going on with my summer travel plans, this post is a chronicle of my experience while attempting to plan during a time of the unknown and unknowable.
Timeline
Back in January of 2020, we purchased roundtrip tickets on British Airways from New York to Athens Greece. As I’ve mentioned in a previous post we often purchase inexpensive flights from our hometown to more major cities offering more competitively priced international flights, so in this case, it was Southwest Airlines to the rescue!
January was a blissful time of new resolutions and nieve planning for the new year, but what it also did was to create a protective bubble around our newly booked trip to Greece which was done pre-COVID. That said, “then COVID happened” and put everything into flux. Our financial investment in both our flights and accommodations are safe because of our booking date, but then comes a variety of other things to consider and potential complications to tackle.
COVID Considerations
Government Regulated Travel Restrictions
Government-Mandated COVID Mitigation Rules
Above impact on desired activities
Travel Regulations
At the time of the writing of this post, I’m paying very close attention to International tourism regulations from Greece, the European Union, and the United States. Thankfully the EU is being very communicative about regulatory changes and making those changes available on various government websites.
As it stands the US is under a level 4 travel ban on non-essential travel, which doesn’t mean that we can’t leave but does mean that we can’t get travel insurance. The EU is slowly opening up, and fortunately for us, Greece is at the forefront of the relaxing of those regulations due to the low number of COVID cases they have been able to maintain. However, as of today Greece still requires mandatory COVID testing and multi-day quarantine of all arriving tourists. In addition to testing upon arrival, Greece is also heavily enforcing social distancing guidelines which at present is keeping indoor bars and restaurants closed, and has capped entry to many of the historical sites.
With that being said, the Greek Tourism Board has strongly implied that they expect the current restrictions to be lifted in July, and the EU is slated to release the updated guidelines July 1st, but they have not made implications such as what Greece has.
Travel Regulation Resources
The following list of websites is what I’m paying close attention to in terms of the probability of my trip, and my secondary consideration is checking with my airline to stay up to date with how they are complying with travel regulations in addition to being enrolled in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP).
International Flights
As mentioned above, a secondary thing to remain mindful of is how the airlines are reacting to changing regulations. A great example is one such change that has already occurred to my potential trip and the city of my layover.
My flight in August was scheduled to depart from NYC and then land in Madrid Spain before continuing on to Athens Greece. However, the partner airline that we were booked on (in this case Iberia Airlines) which then would have been departing from Spain, was canceled. The cancelation of the second leg of our flight was not a major issue, and actually was a blessing in disguise! We received the cancelation notice and immediately called customer support at British Airways where a representative immediately took our call, rebooked both legs of our flight on a British Airways flight plan through London, and had the whole process completed within ten minutes from the start of our call.
Where the above scenario becomes important, is that the cancelation of the original second leg of our trip is that it was due to restrictions between Spain and Greece, so it’s important to try and stay aware of the many moving pieces related to travel within the EU.
Needless to say, I'll be waiting with bated breath for the announcement promised for the beginning of July.
Want to join the conversation? Leave a Comment Below.
Visit Stirling Castle
The Scottish Struggle And Braveheart?
In addition to my love of all things Harry Potter, is a deep abiding enjoyment of Historical Dramas. Granted, history adapted for the screen is no substitute for actual study, as some directors take more artistic license than others. However, in my opinion, to gain exposure to significant events in history, making them come alive on the screen is an excellent place to start reaching the masses!
If you’re in your late 30’s or 40’s, chances are high that you’ve not only seen the movie “Braveheart,” but also that either you or a friend of yours, was obsessed with it back in the late ’90s or early 2000s. While I enjoyed the film, the guys in my college social circle at the time were obsessed with all things “epic,” so to say that I’ve "seen" the Braveheart and Lord of The Rings films is a gross understatement. That said, while much of the Braveheart film was not historically accurate, it was great at capturing the essence of the struggle that did occur.
Fast forward to 2019 and our trip through the Highlands of Scotland where we took a side trip to see Stirling Castle. Why all the Braveheart buildup? Well, if you recall the film (spoiler alert), William Wallace (Mel Gibson) dies, but the film ends with a setup for yet another surge of resistance by Robert the Bruce, whom in the film changed from supporting the English to that of finally taking up the Scottish cause. While not accurate in the film, the setup for Robert the Bruce to become a significant figure in Scottish history does begin where the closing credits of Braveheart end.
Enter stage right, Stirling Castle and Robert the Bruce.
Stirling Scotland
First off, the little village nestled at the feet of this castle is adorable. Second, it’s all on a hill, so don’t forget to use your parking brake!
I’ve been fortunate to have been able to tour a good number of castles around Europe, all from different periods of history, as well as levels of splendor, but this one is special. Not comfortable and luxurious such as what Walt Disney personified, but rather, cold and hard while being deeply rooted in cultural identity and struggle for survival. If there was ever a castle that was haunted, it’s this one.
Just outside the entry gates is a statue of Robert the Bruce, from here you can (on a clear day) also see the Wallace monument which was built on a solitary hilltop nearby.
Stirling Castle
One of the largest and most important castles in Scotland, which is saying a lot when you consider that there are more than 2,000 castles in an area that is roughly the size of the US state of Maine.
Most of the buildings that comprise the castle date from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, with a few even dating back to the fourteenth century, and the outer defenses facing the town dating from the early eighteenth century!
Before uniting with England, Stirling Castle was also one of the most used of the many Scottish royal residences, several Scottish Kings and Queens were crowned at Stirling, including Mary, Queen of Scots, in 1542.
There have been at least eight sieges of Stirling Castle, including several during the Wars of Scottish Independence, with the last being in 1746, when Bonnie Prince Charlie unsuccessfully tried to take the castle.
Largely destroyed by English forces to break the will of Scottish separatism sentiment, the castle has been fully rebuilt and lovingly restored to all of its former glory.
