A Night on Mont Saint-Michel
Combine every fairy tale you heard as a child, and add a dash of Harry Potter, bake for a century or so, and what you end up with is Mont Saint Michel.
In all respects, it exists outside of time, which becomes apparent as soon as it appears on the horizon of your approach, and then gets reinforced after you’ve experienced the change in tide.
When our travel plans for France were still in the infancy stage, my husband began his campaign to add this as a stop on our itinerary. Not aware of what it was before that time, it didn’t take much beyond a picture, to get me to sign-on to the idea of a visit.
Isolated monastery/village/fortress by day, and monolithic island retreat by night, the role that this architectural marvel has played in French history, is very unique. Historical significance aside, it’s just cool to see and will be the best workout for the ole backside, that you’ve ever had.
That said, despite all of the above, very few people live there anymore, and those that do, are for the tourists that swarm it each day. You’ll be hard-pressed to find much in the way of authenticity here, as pretty much every building has been turned into tourist accommodation, tourist-centric restaurant, or junky trinket store.
At the top, and just outside the entrance of the monastery, is a little artist studio and gallery. The woman that owns it is a painter and print-maker, and her work is actually fantastic and produced right there in her studio. Both my husband and I, as well as my mother-in-law, purchased prints from her.
Why would I suggest just “one night?” There are a lot of reasons why you’ll want to see this place, and an equal amount of reasons why you’ll thank me later, for limiting your stay to a single night. Let’s focus on the reasons why you want to see and stay on, this fascinating rock:
Duh, it’s cool, and looks like Diagon Alley… but seriously though, it’s amazing.
You have to experience the changing of the tide, where it goes from being a remote village to an island, in about 20 minutes. The water rushes in so loudly, that we had to run to the balcony of the restaurant we were having dinner at, to see what was going on.
The monastery is the only thing to tour here, and while it does take a substantial portion of the day, it’s not something that takes more than a day to see. Also of note, is that it is still a working monastery, and holds services which can be attended.
While this entire place keeps 10-6 business hours (because of the evening tide), the good news is that with the VAST majority of tourists gone in the evenings, the drama and charm of the place has a chance to stick its nose out. Keep in mind that everything will be closed, but walking around and taking in the views, are MUCH better at this time of day.
Per reasons 2 & 4, you’ll need to stay at one of the itty bitty hotels on the island, to take advantage of these experiences, which can be fun on its own.
With all that said, there’s no need to stay here for two nights, but if I can make one last suggestion… it would be to migrate your stay into a hotel nearby and schedule one of the horseback tours. They take you around the perimeter of the island, while the tide is out during the afternoon and looked fun, but I didn’t get the chance to do this myself, and I regret it.
Questions of Comments? Leave them below!
Baking My Way
I’ll admit, I have multiple books about baking. Beautifully bound hardbacks, full of photographs that make my mouth water, but don’t get used for baking. I might not be alone in this, and for all I know, the publishers never actually intended these publishing masterpieces to get anywhere near flour.
The Scent of Joy
My love of baking began as a child, memories of which are shiny happy feelings of time spent with my overly burdened mother, who despite being the primary caretaker of all eight of her children (which she also home-schooled), still found time to regularly make homemade chocolate chip cookies with each of us.
I don’t recall baking other things with her, at least not in the vivid way that I recall the cookies, but despite the overriding amount of noise I recollect from my childhood years, baking cookies with mom is a memory and feeling that all seven of my younger siblings and I share, that we each treasure.
Fast forward a couple of decades, and I still enjoy baking, but only in the past couple of years has it once again become the happy escape from chaos, that I remember it being with my mother. Somewhat “egged” on by shows like The Great British Bake Off, and more frequent travel to the pastry loving countries of Europe, I’ve become braver with my bakes.
What started with the classic Toll House recipe found on the back of their bags of chocolate chips, has grown to include French Macarons, Butter Croissants, Creme Brulee, Lemon Tarts, Swiss Rolls, and more. If I’m not baking to relieve stress, I’m probably watching a show about baking, or YouTube videos on how to perfect a particular baking technique.
My husband, while not having an avid sweet tooth like myself, has fully embraced my baking obsession. Living in an open concept condo, he has little escape from my baking shows and unending film of flour that coats our kitchen countertops. A beacon of patience and support, he recently purchased me a copy of a newly published book, that might just change my baking destiny.
Bread Between The Lines
I’ll admit, I have multiple books about baking. Beautifully bound hardbacks, full of photographs that make my mouth water, but don’t get used for baking. I might not be alone in this, and for all I know, the publishers never actually intended these publishing masterpieces to get anywhere near flour.
However, I read my copy of Poilane and was moved, deeply moved. How many times in your life do you expect to say that about a cookbook?!
After reading it, I felt a weird sense of responsibility, almost an obligation, to Apollonia Poilane herself, to use the recipes contained within the beautiful pages. So I decided to do just that, try and bake my way through it.
I Love Bread
While I’ve not had much success in the past, I’ve been working towards developing “bread” skills in recent months. Yesterday, a cool Sunday in November, I decided to try my hand at a breakfast recipe in my copy of Poilane.
I first posted this image on my Instagram account, and tagged the Poilane bakery in Paris. To my shock, they responded to it almost immediately with a heart emoji… a true modern love story.
I Read, You Saw, I Baked
I made one mistake in this recipe, which was that I didn’t allow enough space for the bread to rise in the pan before hitting the aluminum foil, leaving a slightly more compressed texture than it should have had. However, the texture was soft and spongy, despite my error, and left me feeling VERY impressed with myself for having made it. My husband and I sliced up some cheeses and cured meats, and ate most of it for dinner :)
My first attempt at black pepper Pullman Loaf!
Having only recently discovered the existence of this bakery, it’s now my goal to bake my way through the entirety of the book, prior to making my way to Paris, to actually visit Poilane Bakery. Over the next nine months or so, I’ll have to step-up my cardio game.
Have you read this book or something else that I should know about? Perhaps I should continue documenting my process of baking my way through this book?
Leave me a comment below!
Three days in Venice
There’s a lot of reasons the make Venice a special place to visit, and there’s a lot of reasons why you’ll probably only go once. Love it or hate it, it’s a very special city that is in rapidly escalating danger of disappearing due to climate change, so better go see it before it’s gone.
Like a right of passage, a visit to Venice should be on your to-do list.
There are a lot of reasons why Venice is a special place to visit, and there are also a lot of reasons why you’ll probably only go once. Love it or hate it, it’s a very special city that is in rapidly escalating danger of disappearing due to climate change, so better go see it before it’s gone.
The final train stop on our tour around northern Italy, Venice was one of my most favorite arrivals in all of my European travels. Arriving via high-speed train, we emerged from the Venezia-Santa Lucia station, and were met with immediate views of the magic that is Venice. As campy as that may sound, it’s how I felt. There’s no place like Venice, and it’s evident from the very first glimpse at it.
Venice, feels “reality adjacent.”
The island of Venice, is plagued by tourists arriving on large cruise ships, which drop anchor just off shore each day. Throngs of tour groups invade each morning, creating multi hour long lines to get into attractions like St Mark’s Basilica, the Campanile bell tower, and the Rialto Bridge. If you hope to see either of those attractions, which are also both located in the heavily congested St. Marks Square, I recommend that you reserve tickets in advance.
That said, around five o’clock, the sea of tourists begins to recede, as they return to the massive ships from which they arrived, as well the tourists that chose to stay on the mainland side of Venice, in the chain hotels. The world quiets down considerably, and the city takes on an heir of romance.
Speaking of the mainland vs. the island, there are pluses and minuses to each option, in terms of where you choose to stay during your time in Venice. Staying on the island itself is much more expensive than on the mainland, and the possibility of your stay turning soggy, is very high. Additionally, the island is NOT for night owls, as everything shuts down around 10pm.
However, the mainland is just a short water taxi ride away from the island, and there are more entertainment and accommodation options available at more affordable prices.
We were of the mindset that we were there to experience the famous floating city, and set aside the more familiar amenities for the few days that we would have the option of doing so. Always on the hunt for ways to stretch our dollars while still achieving our authenticity goals, however, we found a charming little (and I stress “little”) hotel just a short distance from St. Mark’s Square, called Hotel Lisbona that fit the brief.
It’s packed with tourists, the lines are super long, and everything shuts down early, so what do you do?
The good news, is that there’s still a ton of stuff to do, and it doesn’t have to cost a lot. Navigating the island of Venice is like being a marble in one of those puzzle games that you roll around, and you just have to be comfortable with being “lost” most of the time. However, wandering around the tiny winding paths is where you’ll discover the shops, craftsmen, and galleries that you’ll remember about your time spent there.
So try not to over plan your days.
If a tour is still on your to-do list, I recommend visiting the Doge’s Palace, which despite being located immediately next to St Mark’s Basilica, is not nearly the tourist destination that its neighbor is, and is also fascinating and beautiful. In fact, we were able to get tickets and enter within fifteen minutes of arriving at the entrance.
But wait, there’s more!?
Did you know that there are other islands neighboring Venice? I know I sure didn’t, but just a short water taxi ride away are the islands of Murano and Burano. *Tip: Water taxi drivers frequently go on strike, which can have a crippling affect on your plans while in Venice. However, the strikes are usually semi-scheduled. Be sure to ask the staff at your hotel or a local shop about any known dates regarding strikes so that you can plan your visit to these islands accordingly.
Unfortunately for us, the day we had set aside to visit both of these islands, the water taxi’s were on strike, which was a real kink in our slinky. But we were able to visit one of them the following day, prior to another previously scheduled event.
With only the option to visit one island, we chose Burano due to the transportation time it takes to get from Venice. Burano is a quaint little place with brightly painted homes, and is known for it's fishermen and lace makers. It won’t take you much time at all to see the entirety of Burano and while it was great, I would recommend visiting Murano to anyone that has the extra time.
If you still need something more, consider the Opera.
On our final night in Venice, we attended a performance of La Traviata, at Teatro la Fenice (Venice Opera House). The theater is stunning, tickets were reasonable due to having booked well in advance, and was truly one of the highlights of our time in Italy as a whole. I would encourage you to plan a special activity on every trip.
It was great while it lasted, but now it’s time to head home and start wedding planning!
Do you have questions or need advice? Comment below!
Italy - Part 4 of 4
The Shape of Barcelona Spain
One word, Gaudi.
After having visited Barcelona, I now think of it in terms of a single man, Antoni Gaudi. Before visiting some of his more famous buildings, I knew nothing about him and didn’t recognize how often I see references to his work in my everyday life. Architecture buff or not, his distinctive design style has a quality to it that everyone can find something to be interested in.
But first, the park.
Taking the lead on attractions to visit in Barcelona, was my dear friend, Lyndsey. She said, “we’re going to Park Güell,” and I simply said that I didn’t understand what she was saying, but onward ho!
*Park Güell - sounds like “Park Way”
Intended to be a “designer home” neighborhood with lots of dwellings, this pet project designed by Gaudi, was a flop, and only a few model units were built. However, it was later dedicated as a park, and it’s the best place for views of Barcelona!
Be advised, that they don’t allow food inside the park, so you’ll have to scrap that picnic lunch (as we discovered the hard way).
When in Rome, or something like that.
While visiting the grand cities of the world, we try to participate in activities that aren’t what you would typically participate in as an international tourist. Meaning, that if you’re a California resident, and you see someone swimming in the ocean in December, you know immediately that they're a visiting tourist.
To "do as the locals do,” we have attended a variety of different events and shows, and while visiting Barcelona, my husband, and his sister, attended a significant “football match,” called The Kings Cup.
If “sportsball” isn’t your thing, there’s MORE!
Barcelona is a big, busy, modern city, akin to places like Chicago or New York. If you’re looking for “romantic Spain,” this is not the city for you. However, not without charms of its own, there’s something for everyone here.
I recall the evening that Sam and Megan went to the game, Lyndsey and I decided to go to a champagne and crepe bar, just down the street from our hotel, which was a party of a different kind.
It’s like an onion, it has layers…
I think that the more time you spend here, the more things you find to do.
You can entertain yourself with just walking around and doing some shopping, or perhaps wander over to the Picasso Museum, hours and ticket info HERE.
If food is your drug of choice, you’ll be in good company, because there’s something for everyone here, even Gandhi! If you’re in a rush to catch the metro, you might stumble upon one of these MASSIVE vending machines, where you should be able to find just what you’re looking for.
If you go to Barcelona without visiting La Sagrada Familia, you’ve failed at Barcelona.
I’ve seen a lot of beautiful churches, and historical sites in Europe, but La Sagrada Familia is something fully, deeply, and uniquely it's own. I have to take my hat off again to my friend Lyndsey, as it was her initiative and forethought, that booked the tickets in advance (a MUST do, HERE) and booked us on an English speaking tour.
Maybe I’m just sensitive, but the experience of standing in the center of this place, amidst all the color… it moved me to tears. I was truly beyond words.
Before leaving, we agreed that we would be returning to see it when it is finally completed in 2026.
Feeling greedy?
Barcelona also has beaches! I found it funny that the locals think that the beaches are terrible and dirty, but we had a lovely experience.
Keep in mind, you’re probably gonna see some nudity. Boardwalk bars, or directly on the sand, people will always be nearby, ready to sell you cans of “Cerveza” (beer), or other items.
I think that’s about as much as could be packed into 16 days, so if you haven’t checked out the other posts in this Iberian Peninsula series, be sure to check them all out!
Questions? Leave them in the comments.
Time in Tarifa Spain
Tarifa, a refreshing departure from the hustle and bustle of large cities.
Not just a postcard stop
We didn’t spend hardly any time at all in Tarifa, but it’s a refreshing departure from the hustle and bustle of large cities. We came with the intent of taking a day trip to Morocco and only spent two nights in Tarifa to sandwich the tour.
Limited as it was, the charms of this little community, with all of the whitewashed buildings and narrow cobbled lanes, it still managed to make an impression on me. I had one of my most memorable pub experiences I’ve had in all of Europe, and all it took was a power outage and some strangers.
What the Greek?
As I mentioned, we spent VERY little time in Tarifa, but in the evening we arrived in town, we also discovered a great little tavern called the Moby Dick. Tucked away in the center of old town, we wandered into this rather elaborately themed bar and proceeded to make some great travel memories. For whatever reason, the power kept turning on and off, and rather than leaving all the patrons sitting in pure darkness, the staff lit candles on all the tables, which set a “mood” that helped to cement the evening in my memory.
Adding to the charm, was the fact that many of the other guests that night, all broke out into song, which while in Spanish, still produced a smile on the faces of everyone sitting close enough to the candles at our table, to be seen.
That same evening, we were joined by three, random Greek twenty-something men, that were wanting to practice their English skills. Being that you can hear Americans in Europe from a mile away (or at least you can hear me), they sought us out and we proceeded to have a lively conversation, mixed with a few shots of who knows what.
Ahh, travel memory magic.
Let's get old…
Typically when traveling abroad, we choose accommodations in the older parts of whatever city we’re in. Particularly in Europe, this translates to staying in buildings older than our own country (weird to think about)! We do this partly to experience the traditional culture and architecture of a place, and partly because it tends to yield a higher concentration of things we want to do.
While the little hostel (or Guest House) we stayed in during our time here was rather non-distinct, the Pensión Correo, was still a gem of old-world Spanish charm. If you’re ever looking for a little place to stay in Tarifa, perhaps to do some Kite Surfing, or to take a day trip to Tangier, you should book a night with them, HERE.
Croissant Baking Adventures
We’ve all seen them behind the glass, golden, flaky, rounded semi circles of goodness. Some with chocolate, others with shaved almonds, or the classic buttery friend that we all know and love. The croissant is truly an achievement of mankind.
Part One
You’ve seen them behind the glass, golden, flaky, rounded semi-circles of goodness. Some hide decadent chocolate centers, others have shaved almonds, but all buttery achievements of humankind.
Lamination
I’ll be honest, this is another example of The Great British Bake Off, manipulating me into learning new baking skills.
I’ve found the idea of making puff pastry (dough lamination) too intimidating to try previously, but I finally worked up the courage to give it a shot last night, as is evidenced by the photos above. Far from perfect, the texture was slightly more bready than flaky, the semi-circles lost their curves, and the layers were just overall too thick. However, despite those obvious issues, I was pleasantly surprised with how they turned out!
Lessons Learned
I think that most of my issues stemmed from not stretching out my triangles of dough, before rolling them into their final shape. While there are layers in the finished product (the lamination), the individual layers are just too thick, resulting in the slightly bready texture. However, I think that I’ll be able to correct this per the above.
Stay tuned for my second attempt in PART TWO!
Questions, comments, or advice? Leave them below!
A French Destination Wedding
France, one of the most romantic countries in the world, is also wedding ready.
Ask just about anyone with a desire to one day get married, and they will most likely have some sort of an idea about what they want their wedding to be like, what they want to wear, or where they want it to occur. Granted these things might change between the age of eight and thirty-five, but the having of that “ideal” for your big day, is there.
Fast forward a few years, and congratulations, you finally met the right person and got engaged! Sadly, if you’re like me, those once firmly held wedding ideals, have flown the coop, and you suddenly have no idea about what you want for this long-anticipated occasion.
Location
Local, or Destination?
First thing’s first, you need a location that will then set the stage for the other choices you’ll need to make. Unfortunately, this will probably be the most difficult part of the whole process, and everyone and their dog will have opinions, so keep in mind that this is YOUR day.
Aside from the above, by the time it was my turn to tie the knot (at age 35), I had attended a lot of weddings, and while I had fun at most of them (I think), they had largely faded into a blur of bridesmaid dresses, and vanilla wedding cake.
For better or for worse, I found myself armed only with a decisive nature, and a desire to do something “else,” by having a wedding that would be unforgettable.
*Side Note: If you ask my husband about wedding planning, he’ll climb onto a soapbox about what he likes to call, “the wedding industrial complex,” which I knew existed, but didn’t understand before planning ours.
The Wedding Industry Complex
When costs for products or services become inflated due to intangible forces, unrelated to the actual cost to make or produce that item or service. Example: Cake is not expensive to make, you can even purchase a custom sheet cake at Costco for 30 people, for just $18. However, the second you ask a bakery to have cakes stacked on top of one another, it suddenly costs $800 for a product made from the same elements as the $18 Costco cake.
But back to destination hunting.
The Venue
Somewhat desperate to avoid the costly trappings of a traditional wedding, and the obligations that invariably invade that special day, we decided that the only solution was to get out of town. I don’t just mean the state, because the same issues and obligations, would still be there. And let's face it, no one enjoys taking a whole weekend to go out of town to some random city they don’t care about, for someone’s wedding, or redeeming those hard-earned air miles, to fly for this purpose.
So, the “go big or go home” strategy, was born.
Did Someone Say Europe?
Already avid travelers, my fiance and I got engaged while abroad, and have made traveling the world together, a significant element of our relationship. What could be more natural, than to have a wedding that reflects who we are as a couple, and have our wedding be an experience that we can share with everyone, by doing it in Europe?
France, one of the most romantic countries in the world, is also littered with large palatial homes, resulting from its grandiose history. Many of these mini palaces are located on vacation rental sites, like Airbnb, with VERY reasonable nightly rates. With that in mind, what could be better than a large, beautifully decorated home, where you can provide accommodations for friends or family for several days, and also have your wedding for less than the cost of a few hours rental time in a generic event space?
*Side Note: Different countries have different legal requirements for getting legally married within their borders, so be sure to research well in advance. Alternatively, you can always legally tie the knot prior or post the ceremony, which is what we did.
We settled on a home built in the 15th century, located a couple of hours south of Paris, in a small village in the Loire Valley. The house itself was large, having six bedrooms, four bathrooms, two living rooms, two kitchens, and ample space for seventeen overnight guests. Located next to a church, it had plenty of space for additional wedding guests to park on the day of the wedding, and it had a beautiful back yard that abutted a tributary of the Loire river, replete with rowboats, and fairy tale charm. Basically, the home was the idyllic setting for a romantic wedding weekend.
*Side Note: Be sure to check or contact the owner of the property you’re interested in, and explain your plans, as not all homes will allow events. That said, the owner of the house we rented, was THRILLED to have us and even gifted us with flowers and champagne.
Party Planning
Okay, so you’re probably thinking, “great, you got a good deal on the venue, but what about everything else, and how the H* do you arrange that stuff in France!?”
I’m not going to say, “easy,” but in hindsight, it kinda was.
It was really important for us to have our day be focused on what was important about the occasion, and not the package it came in. After all, a “wedding” is simply an exchange of promises between two people, and not flowers and chair rentals. We were determined to keep that in mind and create an environment, that was uncomplicated, allowing the significance of the event to take center stage.
At times, it felt like we might still slide into the trappings we were going all the way to France to avoid, but I just needed to keep reminding myself that the more details we allowed to creep into the planning process, the more that the day would become about those silly details, and not us.
“Fire the butter mints, and burn the custom napkins!”
So… It was time to take stock and get creative with what was already at our disposal.
The Guest List
A couple of fundamental elements to any party plan is A) The size of your party and B) How fancy of an outfit do you want to wear. Mostly though, it’s the number of people, and it’s truly amazing how much easier this part is, when you place a hurdle like an ocean, into the equation. Not in any way to suggest that we didn’t want to share our day with everyone that we care about, and that love us, but more like giving many of those people an easy “out,” in terms of the feelings of obligation to attend.
However, we opened our wedding arms wide and invited everyone that wanted to come to France, to come join us on the day.
The above abandonment of the usual guest list protocol had three intended and resulting consequences:
The burden of provision was greatly lifted, as compared to a wedding at home, where we would have had somewhere between 100 and 150+ guests, and the increased responsibility and costs for each of those guests.
A destination wedding like ours becomes about more than just “attending a wedding,” and becomes a vacation for your guests. Memories of your wedding will merge into those of their vacation, and in general, become a positive and memorable experience that they won't forget.
The elimination of all but the most close of friends and family, in addition to all of you being removed from your normal setting, allows you the freedom to buck other conventions, without it being as noticeable.
*Side Note: We also planned a modest, afternoon reception back home, to invite the friends and family that we’re unable to come to France, which you can read a little more about, HERE.
Necessary Elements
Um HELLO, look at the house you rented, and the setting it is in! Yes, you could layer “stuff” on top of it, but it’s so beautiful just as it is, why not let the centuries-old stone walls, green mossy grass of the yard, fig-trees, and gently moving waters of the river, be beautiful enough?
Candelabras and draperies aside, with 40 people having purchased flights to attend, we needed (at bare minimum), food for that many, so working backward from 40, catering became the second hurdle.
Time to take inventory.
Any home that can accommodate seventeen overnight guests, has furniture, and a fair amount of it at that. I reached out to the owner of our Airbnb and got an inventory of what was already at the house, and it turned out that there were several large, iron, outdoor dining sets scattered around the property (all in good usable shape), that we could simply move around for our purposes.
Further, the owner recommended a local chef (Erik Maillard), that had previously prepared meals at the home for other large group events, and who was already stocked with the appropriate sized table linens and serving ware. Score!
With no desire for the formality of a seated service, we chose to forgo the rental of additional chairs, in favor of a short, standing service, set alongside nicely appointed tables in the yard.
Table linens and floral centerpieces for the tables was all that was physically used to decorate. Simple.
Never Wear White to A Wedding
As widely accepted as that rule is, I decided to go another way.
If you notice in films or advertising campaigns, guests at classy events, all seem to magically coordinate with the decoration and themes of the events they are attending, which to me, makes the whole affair look much more polished. Not wanting anything to distract from the “vibe” of our venue, I hoped to employ this same tactic to achieve a cohesive “look” for our wedding, and thereby the same idyllic appearance in our wedding photos. With this in mind, I told all of our guests to please abide by a specific dress-code.
White, shades of white or light tan were my marching orders, and I sent everyone images for outfit inspiration. This was by far, the best idea I had, because it truly enhanced the overall curated look of the event, with minimal effort on my part to decorate the space itself.
Bridal Flowers
When thinking about how and where to procure flowers while abroad, if I didn’t want to hire a florist, there wouldn’t be any guarantee of what kind of flowers I would have access to or any guarantee of being able to find any when I would need them.
Throwing caution to the wind, I decided that this was a detail that wasn’t worth stressing about (I don’t remember the flowers at any of the weddings I’ve ever attended, so why should mine be any different?), and to just deal with it when the time came. However, I did pack ribbon and a locket with a picture of my dad (who wasn’t in France for the occasion), in anticipation of whatever flowers I would find.
Food
I hired the chef that was recommended to me, and who turned out to be a LOVELY human. Sadly, my French is terrible, and he didn’t speak great English, which made communication difficult. However, through the course of several dozen roughly translated emails in Google Translate, we were able to establish that he would be making food for forty, bring wine from a local winery, would NOT serve any shellfish (my groom is allergic), and there would be a cheese course instead of cake. Beyond that, I wasn’t able to understand what it was that he would be making.
The breezy side of me had firmly taken hold at this point, and let's face it, he was a french chef and how bad could it really be?
Additionally, at some point in our broken conversation, we discussed how to set the tables (plated or buffet, and table linens or no), I had also mentioned that I wanted room for floral centerpieces. The stars all aligned, and he had a neighbor (or friend, I’m still not sure) that was a florist that he could contract for this purpose. He said that for an extra 60€ (about $73), he would bring tasteful flowers for each table.
So, with no idea what food we would be eating (other than cheese), what the wine would taste like, or what the flowers would look like, my wedding day was basically planned. Done!
Didn’t they turn out amazing!
It’s all about the dress
Oh gosh, the dress. Another wedding expense that steams my clams, is the cost of that silly dress. I mean, I get it, “it’s the most significant dress you’ll ever wear,” but to spend $2k (or more) on a dress you only wear ONE TIME… who am I, Marie Antoinette?
Nope, it wasn’t gonna fly with me (and I do mean that literally). I went wedding dress shopping at home and had the whole champagne experience with my mother and future mother-in-law, but while I found gowns that I LOVED, it didn’t override my reservations about the expense, or about hauling it to France.
Not only would keeping track of such an item be cumbersome for someone that typically only takes a backpack when traveling, but then the pressing and floofing of it, sounded like a pain. So, revisiting the goal of the whole affair… I was reminded that a simple wedding, would require a simple dress.
Happily, I’ve been very fortunate to have some extremely talented, creative people in my orbit, one of which is a gown designer (you can find out more about her, HERE). After crafting a list of my needs, she was able to make me a custom dress, that while still being 10X more expensive than anything else I own, was designed in such a way as that I’ve actually worn it four times since my wedding (five times in total), which has greatly mitigated my gripe about the cost per wear issue.
I’d also like to qualify my comments regarding the expense of gowns, to exempt those which have been custom made, rather than mass-produced overseas. Ateliers (such as my friend) deserve to be paid for their time, which is considerable when crafting custom goods by hand.
In the end, my dress needed to achieve the following:
Make me feel like a bride
Not wrinkle
Be slim enough to be rolled up and packed into my backpack (yep, I did it)
And not be so “bridal” in style, that it couldn’t be worn for other nice events
She delivered on all four points.
No pressing needed, it was simply UN-rolled and was ready to go!
The shoes
Honestly, the shoes were almost harder to figure out than the dress. I must have bought and returned four different pairs. In addition to my dress being tea length, and therefore the shoes being on full display, was the fact that we were getting married on grass, which posed a “sinking” issue, but I didn’t want wedges or flats.
Thanks to an eavesdropping co-worker who heard me complaining about my shoe dilemma, I was introduced to heel caps (like these, HERE). Acting as snowshoes for your heels, they prevent you from sinking in the grass. GENIUS!
With that dilemma sorted out, I soon visited UAL while visiting Nashville, and found my dream wedding heels. Always looking for a deal, these just happened to be on clearance for $80 (marked down from $1200). Thanks to the heel caps, and a recently repaired strand of my grandmother's pearls, I was now fully dressed and accessorized for the big day.
The Groom
We decided that there was no need to purchase a new suite for the occasion because he already owned a lovely powder blue one, which would complement the shades of white, cream, and pink, that myself and the guests would be wearing. I did, however, have a special pocket square made from the same material as my dress, as well as commissioned a custom lapel pin (not shown) for him to wear (another talented friend, that can be found HERE), which I gifted to him on the morning of our wedding.
The Bridal Flowers Cont…
Back to my breezy plan for flowers, which TOTALLY paid off.
When we checked into our Airbnb the day before our wedding (also the day to get wedding flowers), the owner/host, met us in person to get us checked in. She was so excited to have her home be the location of our nuptials (the first ever), that she gifted me a HUGE bouquet of white lilies and roses, as well as champagne. It was these flowers that I used to make my bouquet.
My mother-in-law had a brilliant idea to save some of these flowers after the wedding and pressed them between pages of a book which I purchased while in Paris. Most of them survived the process remarkably well, and are now framed and mounted on the wall in our bedroom.
As for the Groom, the property was lined with enormous lavender plants and using the handy dandy lapel pin that I had gifted him, we simply pinned a lovely sprig of sweet-smelling lavender, to his jacket.
The Wedding Day
In the end, we flew over (on an amazing flight deal we found with Google Flights), rented the house for a weekend, had a private chef, brought our photographer (whom if you couldn’t tell from the photos, is AMAZING and can be booked HERE), and had a beautiful service for less than the cost of renting a venue and tables for four or five hours, in Kansas City.
(Picks jaw up from floor)
Of the many memorable moments from that day, quite possibly my favorite is one that happened while alone, and I feel encapsulates the magic of the day as a whole. The morning of the wedding, in the stillness of my bedroom, I had just woken up and gotten out of bed. I crossed the room to open the powder blue window shutters, to look outside at the back yard (I was concerned about rain), what I saw will forever live in my heart.
The sky was clear and blue, morning bird songs were mingled with the gentle rustling of leaves in the trees, and scattered below my window, were white doves peacefully looking for their breakfasts. It was like looking at a painting, and I remember thinking, “Of course.”
In France, I guess scenes like this happen on your wedding day.
Wedding Video
There’s more? Yep, my husband has a step-brother that’s also a VERY talented videographer. He made us a short (at our request) 3-minute wedding video, which captures the essence of our day, in a way which I feel is lost in longer wedding videos. If you’re curious, I’ve included it here, and his contact info, HERE.
Questions or comments? Leave them for me below.
A French Countryside Vacation
If you want a place where you hear church bells on the hour, see white doves just casually hanging out in the back yard, and nothing else…this is a place where you can just, be.
3 Days in Saint-Martin-de-Sanzay
I’m a HUGE fan of historical docudramas, and Masterpiece Theater has filled my weekend calendar on more than one occasion. All that to say, I have a soft spot for “old-world charm.”
Visiting the larger cities of a given country (such as Paris) might be logistically easier, but you can learn and experience SO much about the people and history of a place by visiting the small towns and villages.
Why visit Saint-martin-de-sanzay, you ask? Equal parts random choice, regional location, and just the right amount of “unimportant to other tourists,” is what made it the perfect place for us to stay.
Where to Stay in the Loire Valley
Located in central France, it is best known for world-class wine and the stunning chateaus. I can’t recommend highly enough, spending some time exploring this area and sampling the many treasures that it has to offer.
Like anyplace that has wonderful things to see and do, there are going to be people that want to see all those wonderful things, and as a result, more touristy things invade the area. However, it’s possible to both see the things, and not so many of the “people,” by simply staying just off the beaten path.
The third part of this equation is the “random choice,” element. As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, we regularly utilize Airbnb when we travel, and in keeping with the “close, but not too close” guidelines, I simply opened up my search preferences to “Map View,” and started looking at properties in the general area of the things and places I wanted to see.
Voila, Saint-Martin-de-Sanzay yielded the result I was looking for!
Saint-Martin-de-Sanzay
Population 900, has a pub/convenience store and a post office. If you want restaurants and shopping, you’ll have to hop over to the neighboring village, which is just a few minutes away by car.
I adore this picture of my mother playing the piano, we were all laughing, drinking wine, and truly celebrating our time together in that house.
If you want a place where you hear church bells on the hour, see white doves just casually hanging out in the back yard, and nothing else…this is a place where you can just, “be.”
What “French Village” Dreams are made of
Want to open the shuttered windows and listen to some music on vinyl (we did)? Perhaps you just want to take a nap with the windows open? My father-in-law did, and when he woke up, a tiny kitten had climbed in through the window and curled up to sleep on his chest. I don’t know whom it belonged to, but I will forever affectionately call it, “le meow.”
Just a short drive to the many vineyards and chateau in the region, this countryside home has forever created a space in my heart, a space in which I mentally return to when I think of resting.
*Side Note: I also got married in this house, which I’ll share in another post.
The owner is an absolute sweetheart, and we have every intention of returning to this home again someday. If you want to reserve it for yourself, you can find the listing HERE.
Questions or comments? Leave one for me below!
Bologna, Not Just For Sandwiches
Bologna feels like a “slice” of authentic Italy
Ham or cheese, anything else is simply not Italian
What a bunch of Bologna
Neighbor to Florence, Bologna was a thoroughly delightful surprise and unexpected foodie haven. In many respects a college town, Bologna felt like a slice of authentic Italian life (pun intended), away from the tourist-centric stores and hoards of sightseers.
It was here that we rented a tiny Airbnb, which was located on one of the many streets restricted to foot traffic by day, but at night, transformed by cafes and shops. So surprising was the transformation, that we had difficulty finding our way back again on the first evening of our stay.
That said, this is a city that enjoys food, and was the natural place to have my first authentic cannoli, which did not disappoint.
Here’s a medium funny, “lost in translation” food story for you. One afternoon, we stopped at a random sidewalk cafe for lunch, and I ordered a ham sandwich (a staple item that I knew how to order). However, when the stated sandwich arrived (as shown below), I immediately had serious questions that I didn’t know how to ask in Italian. Turns out, we were at a vegan restaurant, and this was their version of a ham sandwich.
Friends that travel together, climb stairs together.
At least that’s the case when you visit Bologna. Among the things which this city is known for, are the leaning towers, and no, they aren’t like another famous leaning tower in Italy.
The “Two Towers,” or Le due Torri, are but two of multiple medieval towers of their kind, the Garisenda and Asinelli towers (named by the rival families that built them) are simply the most famous.
Not for the faint of heart, a climb to the top of the Asinelli Tower, will involve 498, narrow wooden stairs, which lead you to the rooftop. The views are truly memorable, but unbeknownst to us at the time we decided to make the climb, one of our friends was extremely afraid of heights and enclosed spaces. With that in mind, this activity is NOT for everybody.
What goes up, must come down.
Much to the relief of our elevation phobic friend, with feet firmly planted on the ground, celebratory drinks were in order.
On a train headed to Venice, accompanied by none other than a ham and cheese sandwich.
Do you have questions or need advice? Comment below!
Italy - Part 3 of 4
3 Days in Paris
Travel to Paris and get the most out of 3 days, and how setting expectations can be helpful.
Travel to Paris
Romance is truly in the air! Okay, well maybe not, but it could happen with more than three days. Simply put, three days in Paris is more of a tease, than it is a short trip. I left feeling frustrated about the volume of things I didn’t get to see or do, and I don’t usually feel that way after one of our standard 3-day visits to the cities of Europe.
However, we still did a lot, and the reality is that I fell in love with Paris before I had even been there, and once I was, everything I saw just made me want to see more. So, I’ll show you what we did, and then I’ll let you choose from what sounds good to you.
My sister and I taking cute pics out of the windows of our AirBnb.
Choosing a Vacation Rental in Paris
Location is everything, or sometimes, access is everything. Paris is SO massive, that it’s impossible to be in the middle of everything because the “everything” is EVERYWHERE! We decided to split the difference, and choose a place central to the city, but super close to a big metro interchange, so that we could easily get to other parts of the city.
The “BoBos” (Bourgeois-Bohème) of the 11th arrondissement
Given the size of our party (there were 10 of us), it was somewhat easier to find a large apartment in the BoBos, due to the history of that neighborhood.
Four floors up, our lovely front door.
The Churches of Paris
Our Lady, Notre-Dame…
*UPDATE: As I’m sure you’re aware, the world gasped, as it watched the flames engulf the beloved cathedral, in April of 2019.
Image taken from USA Today
Notre-Dame appeared out of nowhere, like a deer jumping out of the woods into plain sight. At least that’s how it felt to me while stumbling around, tripping left and right, because I was trying to see everything all at once. I rounded a corner (not really knowing where I was, or exactly where I was headed), and then BAM! There she was.
If you’ve never traveled, or even if you have, the first time you see something that’s 800 years old (or more), or exists (to you) only in the movies, your heart kinda stops. The world suddenly contracts a little bit, as your brain attempts to connect the concepts of things that are “otherworldly",” to the ground that you are currently standing on and living in the same immediate space with.
For me, when I meet antiquity in this way, I feel very small, but also very connected with the human story of the world. People, things, and places, once so far removed as to feel like they exist only in books and films, suddenly become real, and I exist alongside them. It’s a rush, it’s addicting, and you can’t go back to how you were before you saw it.
Sacré-Cœur Basilica
While not as widely recognized as Notre Dame, the Sacre Coeur is definitely worth visiting. Providing the best views of Paris, it sits atop a hill, gazing down at the city below. The day we chose to make the trek to see it, there was a wine festival happening, so the crowds were definitely in attendance. However, If you’re looking for a more peaceful experience, I’d be sure to check the activity schedule first, by visiting the website.
What would Paris be without food?
Any self-respecting European trip means that you’ll be eating every chance you get. Nice dinners, snacks, cafes, you’ll eat it all, and it will be magical. However, always in the mood for specific experiences, we decided to try something VERY different.
On a special “date night,” away from the rest of the family members, we visited a restaurant called “Dans le Noir,” or as the experience would indicate, Dining in the Dark.
You must lock your phone and camera up, so I don’t have any pictures of this experience.
Unlike anything I had experienced before, you enter a front lobby, where the staff groups people together (even if you don’t know them), and then has you place ALL of your belongings into individual lockers. Purses, watches, phones, it all must be locked-up because if you drop it, or it glows, it will either be lost or ruin the experience for everyone. They take this very seriously.
Next, your group is provided with a server, which at least at this particular location, all of them serve staff, were visually impaired. standing in a line, you place your hand on the shoulder of the person in front of you, and then you are ushered through a snaking hallway to eliminate any light pollution from entering the dining room. Your group is brought to a stop at a table, and you are told to wait. One by one, your server assists you with sitting down and orients you with where your drinks and other table items are located.
Eating is a whole new experience because you only roughly know what you’ll be having before it comes (Ex. Poultry or Seafood), so you get the opportunity to meet and experience the meal in a totally unexpected way.
We had an awesome time, and it was a great new experience for both of us. You should consider going the next time you’re in Paris! You can make a reservation on their website, HERE.
When “normal” is Amazing.
I’m not surprised that people think Parisians are snooty, they may live in the number one tourist city in the world, but the city offers plenty of reasons for people to be living there beyond the tourist trade. With that in mind, being surrounded by gawking, lost, strangers with the same dumb questions, would get old.
Being one of those annoying tourists myself, here are some pictures of our wanderings…
An Evening at the Ritz - Paris
Rapidly running out of time in Paris, we still managed to squeeze in a few memorable things. Thanks to an invitation by some friends of ours, who happened to be staying at the Ritz (not be confused with the Ritz Carlton), we went and had drinks at “Bar Hemingway.” Yep, named for the author, and located inside of the Ritz, this place is amazing, but drinks are VERY expensive, so be prepared to shell out at least 30€ per drink!
A Topless Cabaret
Taking in dinner and a show, we decided to pay a visit to the Lido, and see what there was to see. This being my first time to see a cabaret, and a topless one at that, I didn’t know what to expect, but I enjoyed myself immensely! For obvious reasons, there aren’t pictures allowed inside, but the production value of the show was far beyond what I expected, and I truly enjoyed the whole experience.
If you want to see it the next time you’re in Paris, you can book it HERE.
Visiting the Eiffel Tower
No trip to Paris would be complete, without seeing this iconic Parisian structure. I caught my first glimpse of it at night, just as the lights had come on…glittering in the night sky like it was kissed with magic.
I had aspirations of seeing it during the day, and visiting the parks that surround it, but it was a bit of a hike for us to get to, and time was an issue. However, I’ll be sure to prioritize a visit the next time I’m there, and will perhaps book a ticket to ride up to the observation deck. You can find ticket information, HERE.
We’ll always have Paris
The time was far too short, but Paris was just the starting point for our France Adventure! Next stop, the Loire Valley and our wedding!!
France Travels: Post 1 of 8
My Spanish Sleeper Train Experience
First of all, I want to go on record as having said how much I enjoy train travel in Europe.
It’s what old Hollywood films are made of…almost.
First of all, I want to go on record as having said how much I enjoy train travel in Europe. It’s cost-effective, it’s comfortable, and much more liberating than being stuck in your seat on an airplane. You could argue that even with the utilization of a high-speed train, it’s still not as fast as flying, but the main difference is that you can still create memorable experiences while on a train.
No matter what, you’re gonna have to pay to sleep somewhere.
Yes, a sleeper train might sound a little pricey at first glance, but if you then consider that you would have to pay for a night at a hotel or Airbnb, I think you’ll find that whatever that cost might be, coupled with the cost of a traditional train ticket the following day, it will ultimately add up to be the same or less money.
Further, a traditional train journey, during the day, means that you’re spending the day traveling, rather than on the ground exploring an area. What if you could kill two birds with one stone, meaning that you could sleep in a bed, and wake-up where you want to be? Sleeper trains for the win!
We booked the Trenhotel provided via the Renfe service, found HERE.
A train trip includes more than your cabin or seat.
After our journey got underway, and our lengthy cabin tour (shown above), we migrated through some of the other cars on the train, until we made our way to the dining car. I don’t know why I didn’t take any pictures, but we proceeded to spend an evening that the four of us argue about to this day.
In the dining car, we set up camp in a four-person booth and proceeded to bust out a couple decks of playing cards. I thought it would be a great idea to implement a rule, where whoever won the hand we were playing, would also be saddled with buying a snack for losers of the hand, that way even if you lost, you still won a snack and therefore everyone wins. Alas, despite having a wonderful evening of snacking and playing games, the ensuing arguments about my snack purchasing rule, have been a legacy that plagues me to this day.
All is well and good until the snacks run out.
We woke up in Barcelona
We were already in Barcelona when we woke the next morning, and with all the traveling already out of the way, we were free to spend the entire day exploring the city! Well rested, and without the typical anxieties associated with jumping from city to city within a day, taking a sleeper train is something I’ll definitely do again.
Questions or Comments?
Lake Como Is Engaging
Did you ever watch that show, “Life Styles of The Rich and Famous?” Places and spaces so glamorous that they couldn’t possibly be real, or accessible to a regular person like myself. At least that’s what I used to think.
If it’s good enough for George Clooney, it’s good enough for me.
Did you ever watch that show, “Life Styles of The Rich and Famous?” Places and spaces so glamorous that they couldn’t possibly be real, or accessible to a regular person like me. At least that’s what I used to think.
Located in the northwest Lombardy region of Italy, just a couple of hours by train from Milan (and a very short bus ride). Lake Como is an upscale lake community, known for dramatic scenery, glamorous villas, and set against the foothills of the Alps.
Scattered along the banks of this stunning lake, are tiny villages which are largely UN-accessible by car, but are connected by a series of water-taxis. It won't take you long before you’ll notice the absence of car noise, and start feeling your entire body start to say, “I could get used to this.”
Travel by bus to Bellagio on Lake Como
Arrival in Bellagio, our home on Lake Como for the next few days.
Heaven on earth, or the home of James Bond villains?
The beauty of this place just doesn’t stop. We stayed in the aptly named “Hotel Bellagio” (try not to think about the hotel in Las Vegas), and spent our days eating gelato and boating around the lake to neighboring towns… you should checkout Varenna if you plan to visit the area. P.S. it is possible to see George Clooney’s house while crossing the lake.
Some things to know:
This isn’t the least expensive place to visit, due to its isolation. You’ll not find chain hotels to use your points at, and if you want to stay near the water, expect to pay a premium. That said, there is a range of prices, and you’ll spend very little time in whatever room you do decide to book, so follow your heart, but try to remember that you’re here for the lake and prioritize location over hotel amenities.
There aren’t cars in the lake communities for a reason. Hills. You will rarely have a flat piece of ground to walk on, so footwear needs to be chosen for practical use. Leave the cute shoes at home ladies, and opt for strappy sandals and ballet flats.
“I villa be back!”
Terrible puns aside, there’s no shortage of amazing homes along the shores, which are open to the public for tours. One of these homes (while we didn’t get a chance to go ourselves), is Villa del Balbianello, which was used as a backdrop in Star Wars episode ll, Attack of The Clones.
However, we spent an afternoon gazing in amazement at the Villa Carlotta, and surrounding gardens and didn’t feel like we missed out on anything.
My life changed forever…
During one of our outings around the lake, my partner of four years, finally popped the big question. I can’t imagine a more perfect place to have experienced that beautiful moment.
The ring is a family heirloom, which I’ll proudly be the third woman in the family to wear.
Cruising on our water taxi back to Bellagio, as a newly engaged couple!
Next stop, Bologna!
Do you have questions or need advise? Comment below!
Italy - Part 2 of 4
A Macaron and The Great British Bake Off
Watching the Great British Bake Off, is such a joy for me. It helps me unwind, and the co operative, pleasant attitude of the contestants, sorta recharges my introverted (i.e. People can suck) batteries. What it also can do to me, is make me brave enough to try making things I’ve never tried to make before.
When a show becomes an obsession
Usually, it’s a mannerism or a catchphrase, but sometimes it’s an over-inflated sense of confidence. Maybe that’s just me, and only in this one instance, but man… I dove in.
Watching the Great British Bake Off is such a joy for me. It helps me unwind, and the cooperative, pleasant attitude of the contestants, sorta recharges my introverted (i.e. People can suck) batteries. What it also can do to me, is make me brave enough to try making things I’ve never tried to make before.
Example one, the example of all examples, was committing to making french macarons for my wedding reception before I’d ever even tried to make them. I blame the show for making them look easy.
Lesson One:
Don’t believe everything you see on television.
This is a Macaroon, NOT a Macaron.
Lesson Two :
Get real excited and go buy a book WAY out of your league.
Lesson Three:
Spend HOURS in front of your oven, praying for silly things like “feet,” and glossy level tops, and then proceed to pitch your first three to five batches in the trash.
Lesson Four:
After buying stock in your local egg whites farm, determine to make at least two cookies per guest, and then suddenly realize that a single finished cookie, is TWO cookies, and you only get eight finished cookies out of each batch. Double your egg purchase, and start drinking a lot of wine.
Lesson Five:
Congratulations, you’ve achieved Ninja level macaron skills, and the neighbors that ate the multitude of practice cookies, now only see cookies when they see you coming. All future gifts will be macaron themed.
Give yourself a HUGE pat on the back, you made 300 macarons in four different flavors when you could have just gone to Costco.
Questions or Comments? Leave me a note in the comments!
3 Grand Days in Granada Spain
I distinctly recall an evening, probably our second day, sitting on the rooftop terrace of our Airbnb. The sun was starting to set, the colors of the city were vibrant, and birds were swooping in the air snatching up their dinners. Somewhere in the city, someone was playing a guitar and singing songs, and while I don’t know what they were singing about, I remember thinking that they must have been happy.
Dreams of Spain, are all made in Granada.
It’s a rare and beautiful thing when your hopes and expectations of what a place will “feel” like, actually materialize into reality.
I didn’t choose to visit Granada because I had any real experience with that particular city, but research seemed to conclude that it might be a nice place to visit. Little did I know, that Granada would prove to embody the experience of Spain as a whole, that I had hoped to obtain. Intangible to be sure, and different for everyone, but Granada was perfect to me.
Additionally, did I mention that it is customary in Granada ONLY, to provide a complimentary tapas when you order a drink? Yep, you heard me correctly, they just bring you something to eat, for FREE. That said, you don’t get to choose what it is, so it might be a bowl of snails, or it might be sardines in oil, but it’s all yummy, and part of the experience.
That lofty Airbnb life…
We stayed in the Albaicin neighborhood, in the central old town, which was the perfect home base, for easy walking access to all the sites. Not to mention, that if there was ever a place that you want to walk everywhere, lest you miss a single square inch of the city, it’s Granada.
Our Airbnb, while small, was super charming, and the host available to us whenever we called (we had trouble with the lock on the door). It had two lofted beds and a sleeper sofa, a cute little kitchen, and a rooftop patio that we GREATLY enjoyed. Not only did this place meet our needs in every way, but it was very cost-effective.
It’s a Flamenco way of life…
I’m a huge fan of Anthony Bourdain (R.I.P. Tony), and when planning a trip, I often refer back to episodes of one of his shows, for tips and inspiration. With that in mind, in his Granada episode, he visited a flamenco club set inside of a cave-dwelling, of which there are many surrounding Granada, and so I set my heart on doing the same.
Flamenco was born here, out of a cultural “blending'“ (people known as Gypsies) that were at the time, not well-liked. To escape some of the hostilities, they took to the hillsides, where they carved out whole communities into the rocky cliffs above the city. Gypsies are still prevalent in Granada, albeit more made up of young Europeans, even to this day.
Whatever the nationality, Granada is home to artists, musicians, and students, a recipe for simmering energy, which can be both seen and heard. Due to the landscape of Andalusia, which is very rocky and hilly, Granada sits in a bowl, providing natural amplification to the music being played by the gypsies throughout the day.
Gypsies and dancing aside, Granada is a vibrant place, filled with colors and pleasant sounds. The history is rich, and it’s reflected in the ornamentation of not just the historical sights and grand buildings, but also in the homes of the people that live there. Elaborate flower boxes, porcelain tiles or even plates, all show a love for the place they live.
The Alhambra
There’s very little I can say about the Alhambra which would do it any justice. The history is very interesting, but to see it in person…it’ll change you.
We were VERY lucky, we were able to scoop up some tickets by arriving at the entrance at the butt crack of dawn, but had I known, I would have booked well in advance of our arrival. We lucked out, but I wouldn’t advise anyone to try our method, rather, you should book several months in advance, and get an audio guide with your ticket, HERE.
Also, some people will tell you to budget 4 hours to tour it, but if you really want to see and appreciate it, take your time, it took us about 8 hours and I can’t imagine having done it in less.
About the Gypsies, a word of advice.
Unlike displaced people in America, you’ll encounter two distinctly different groups of transient people in Spain. Specific to Granada, are the gypsies. Gypsies are nomadic artists, seeking to earn income through the playing of music, selling jewelry, or telling of fortunes. The latter can happen without your consent, so if they grab your hand or arm, don’t hesitate to pull away with a firm “no thank you,” and keep moving, or they will demand that you pay them for the service they provide without your having asked for it. However, the jewelry is not bad quality (at least the jewelry that I purchased), and they are largely harmless.
The second group of people is more akin to what we call “panhandlers.” This group is much more aggressive than what we experience in the US. People from this group will come up to your table while eating at outdoor restaurants and shove a cup in your face. Typically the restaurant staff watches out for you, but sometimes you’re on your own. I’m not going to tell you what to do, in terms of giving them what they are pressing you for, but I am just telling you that it took me by surprise the first time it happened.
One evening in Granada
I distinctly recall an evening, probably our second day, sitting on the rooftop terrace of our Airbnb. The sun was starting to set, the colors of the city were vibrant, and birds were swooping in the air snatching up their dinners. Somewhere in the city, someone was playing a guitar and singing songs, and while I don’t know what they were singing about, I remember thinking that they must have been happy. This is how I will remember my time in Granada.
Questions or Comments? Leave them in the comments below.
From Spain to Morocco A Day Trip
I can’t stress enough, how odd it is to be standing on the beach, and literally be able to SEE Africa. A mere 45 minutes via high-speed ferry, the opportunity to set foot on the continent, was simply too good to pass up.
There and back again, a tale of two continents.
It’s a common misconception, that the Rock of Gibraltar is the southernmost point of the Iberian Peninsula. An oddity in it of itself, we were tempted to go see it, but instead opted for the actual southernmost point of Spain, Tarifa.
A lazy beach town, Tarifa is a popular destination for kite surfing, and ferry crossings over to Morocco. I can’t stress enough, how odd it is to be standing on the beach, and be able to SEE Africa. A mere 45 minutes via high-speed ferry, the opportunity to set foot on the continent, was simply too good to pass up.
With the assistance of the staff at our hotel, we booked a One Day Cultural Tour of Tangier, through FRS. It was very reasonably priced, at just €66, it included our passage via high-speed ferry, tour guide, and transportation, as well as lunch.
A few things to know about Tangier…
Morocco is a Muslim country, and while it is very welcoming to tourists, it is recommended that women wear conservative clothing, i.e. no tank tops or shorts.
The people of Tangier DO NOT like to be in photos, particularly in the bazaars.
Tangier has left its glory days behind it, so expect to see a lot of crumbling infrastructure and trash, as well as stray cats.
Shopping in Tangier
I did a LOT of research on “how” to shop for rugs, before our visit. That said, I still found it overwhelming when it came right down to it. The city of Tangier depends on tourism, and as most tourists are just day visitors (as we were), expect to be relentlessly hounded from the time you arrive, until the time you leave.
Adding to the stress of the rug hunt is the fact that we were only there on a cultural tour, and had only an hour and a half of allocated time for shopping. The rug situation is not an experience you can just breeze through, and very few of the shop keepers spoke good English, so finding the style of rug that I wanted, was even more challenging.
With all that said, I found a rug and commenced with the haggling process (not a fan). It’s important to consider a few factors when haggling:
Sellers inflate the prices to start with, and if they know you’re an American, they start even higher (this is true in a lot of places).
Yes, they are poor, but unless the product is truly of good craftsmanship, you saw it being made, or have a way to verify authenticity, don’t be a sucker for a sad story.
Discuss your haggling strategy beforehand with your travel buddy, so they don’t think you’re either a rageaholic or undermine you unknowingly.
Don’t be afraid to walk away.
My shopping summary
In the end, I purchased my rug at 45% below the initial asking price. I started at offering 50% of their asking price and had decided before starting, what my limit was. I’m glad I did because haggling can go ON and ON…
However, in some of the smaller item stores, it’s safe to say that everyone in our party got thoroughly ripped off. With all the same haggling strategies in play, we all still ended-up way overpaying for “silver” jewelry that quickly proved to not be real silver, and “handmade” carvings that we later found to have been made in China, and being sold at a fraction of the “good price” we had achieved during our haggle sessions.
While the stories and experiences ultimately made all that junk worth the price, I’ll know better the next time I’m in Morocco, probably for purchasing more rugs (which is hanging on my wall to this day) ;)
Highlight of Tangier
As silly as it may sound, our brief camel ride on the side of the road, was the M.V.M. (most valuable moment) of our time in Tangier. At just 3€, it was also the best money I’ve ever spent on a novelty experience.
Iberian Peninsula: Post 4 of 7
Questions or Comments? Leave me a note in the comments section :)
A Luggage Philosophy
If Instagram has taught us anything, it’s that having the perfect outfit for the already enviable locations that you’re visiting, is an added perk to traveling abroad, but who’s going to carry it?
Fashion show in exotic locations, or hassle-free travels?
If Instagram has taught us anything, it’s that having the perfect outfit for the already enviable locations that you’re visiting, is an added perk to traveling abroad.
However, those six pairs of shoes won't get themselves up the four flights of stairs in your beautiful, but historical, walk-up Airbnb rental in Italy. So, difficult decisions will need to made, and pairing down your ensemble is only half the struggle.
I’m a big advocate for using the metro/rail systems when traveling in Europe, which while often underground, requires climbing a lot of stairs to navigate to the appropriate platforms. In addition to the metro challenges, there are also the aforementioned stairs in your Airbnb.
The beautiful apartment buildings that we Americans all drool over in photos, typically don’t have elevators or have elevators too small to put your luggage in. Again, this results in hauling your luggage up a LOT of stairs. Even the smallest roller bag, can be cumbersome to carry when gripping a railing and ascending a mountain of stairs.
So, before you pack your bag, let's talk about what kind of trip you’re taking, and how much you’ll be changing locations.
My husband and I travel a decent amount, but I often joke with him that we’ve yet to take a true vacation in the seven years we’ve been together because our trips are marathons of activity. We typically spend no more than three days in a given location and typically travel between twelve and sixteen days, which results in a lot of jumping around, and therefore more stairs than I can shake a stick at. Therefore, I prioritize ease of travel, over Instagram ready wardrobe changes.
Luggage is a tool, and there’s an appropriate tool for every job.
As I mentioned above, I happily pack minimally, in favor of keeping my hands free when traveling. What this translates to, is using a backpack. No, not the backpack you carried in college, and no, not the backpack you’d carry into the wilderness, but an honest to goodness travel backpack. Usually in the category of luggage or travel bags, rather than as a “backpack,” these bags are sized for travelers that want to carry their bags onto their flights. Appropriately sized for most overhead bins, it’s yet another way to ease travel day stresses.
I’ve been carrying a bag from Osprey, since 2015, called the Porter. This bag has been upgraded a little since I purchased mine, but the basics of the bag are all still the same, and it’s still available on the Osprey website, HERE.
How do you pack enough for two weeks into a backpack?
Even when I’m not traveling, and have access to my entire wardrobe, I still do laundry at least once per week, so that I can wear my favorite pieces again and again. The HUGE advantage of staying in Airbnbs, in addition to the cost savings, is the access to a washing machine. Pack less, rewash, and your little backpack will become your best friend.
So serious is my belief in the above packing philosophy, that when my husband and I opted for a destination wedding, I chose a wedding dress that I could easily roll and pack into that backpack, and I have no regrets to this day.
What does a two week wardrobe in a backpack look like? That’s a subject for another post ;)
Questions? Leave them below!
Two Sweet Days in Seville Spain
If you’ve ever been to Kansas City Missouri, chances are good that you visited the Country Club Plaza, a treasured outdoor shopping district, modeled upon the one and only, Seville Spain.
Did you know, that Seville smells like citrus?
I’ll never forget the smell of Seville, either because I had just spent multiple hours on a bus and was desperate to be anywhere other than that bus, or because the city smelled as strongly of citrus as how I remember.
Arriving in Seville, was an odd mix of relief, excitement, and familiarity. If you’ve ever been to Kansas City Missouri, chances are good that you visited the Country Club Plaza, a treasured outdoor shopping district, modeled upon the one and only, Seville Spain. A mere shadow of the real thing, it still elicited a feeling of unconscious familiarity, walking past the actual structures themselves, for the very first time.
But back to the citrus. Lining the streets of Seville, are orange trees, oranges not for eating, but commonly used for making marmalade as they are considered too bitter for eating. The trees provide shade to the buildings and sidewalks, from the relentless Spanish sun, with the bonus of a sweet citrus smell wafting through the air.
Sometimes, less is more.
If you ever attempt to plan a trip for more than two people in Europe, you’ll quickly discover the challenge of finding multi-person rooms. Additional challenges might also be for stays of less than three nights, which was a hugely limiting factor for us while in Seville.
However, all things being equal, we opted for a four-person room at a hostile, in the area which we hoped to concentrate our limited time. Some rooms had private bathrooms, while ours only had communal, but all had access to laundry service and the location was AMAZING. If you need to save a few bucks, and still want that gold star location, I’d suggest giving them a try.
*Point of fact, we were still able to book this hostile room through Airbnb (HERE)
My experience of Seville, albeit limited by time, was very pleasant. Something I observed, was how clean the core of the city was, no trash or foul odors to be found. Trash was collected each day, and the trash trucks were followed by cleaning crews which would wash the dumpsters and surrounding areas. I’ve never observed something like this in any other place I’ve ever visited.
This is not a game.
But parts of Game of Thrones were filmed here.
Built for the Worlds Fair in 1929, the Plaza de España is a wonder to behold, and I can’t recommend it highly enough, taking the time to tour it.
Gotta get some of that church…
The Seville Cathedral, still a functioning church, regularly holds services which you might observe while wandering through its chambers. More than just a church, it’s also the final resting place of Christopher Columbus, which is available to view from an exterior entrance.
It was short but sweet, and I would consider returning to Seville. I would choose it again over visiting a larger city, such as Madrid.
Iberian Peninsula: Post 2 of 6
Questions or comments, leave them below!
Basque Piperade
Memories live in food, and Basque country makes for sweet sweet dreams in deed. Try this recipe that I’ve come to know and love, and let me know what you think!
Memories live in food.
Have you ever eaten a meal that can transport you to a specific place in your memory? This dish does it for me every time.
Full of savory, sweetness, I love this dish with toast.
The first time I had this, I was in Spain, but being that it’s a Basque dish, have also served with French dishes.
The best recipe I’ve found, and have used several times, can be found HERE.
Give it a try and let me know what you think :)
A Beginners Guide to Travel Planning
Believe me, I get it. Student loans, rent, credit card debt, there’s ALWAYS going to be a million reasons why it’s not the “ideal” time to take that trip to Paris, but you only live once, and I promise that a year from now you’ll find a whole new crop of reasons why it’s not the ideal time.
I plan to see Europe, after I…
Have you ever caught yourself amid that statement? I’m certainly guilty of getting caught up in the minutia of everyday responsibilities and obligations, often blaming my lack of action towards obtaining a goal, on my finances.
Believe me, I get it. Student loans, rent, credit card debt, there’s ALWAYS going to be a million reasons why it’s not the “ideal” time to take that trip to Paris, but you only live once, and I promise that a year from now you’ll find a whole new crop of reasons why it’s not the ideal time.
“But I don’t know how to plan a trip like that.” I believe this to be at the real heart of why people don’t travel, a feeling of intimidation about the distance, and culture. The good news is that this part isn’t as hard as you might think.
How to plan a trip to Europe
Selecting A European Destination
For your first trip abroad, I recommend that you start by making a list of all the places that you’ve ever dreamed of going to. Don’t limit this list for any reason (cost, language, distance, etc.), and make a note of why you’re interested in each place (I’ll tell you why, next).
*Personal Note: My first trip abroad, was to the United Kingdom, to visit friends.
Now that you’ve got your list (free of reservations and limiting factors), you should compare all the notes you made for each place, to see if there are similarities between places (it may reveal the experience you’re secretly hoping to have).
*I made a list a couple of years ago, containing five or six places, but three of which had similar reasons (climate and architecture). This group of three similar places revealed what I was seeking in my next destination, and made the narrowing process much easier.
With your first round of eliminations made, it’s now time to compare the nuts and bolts of each place. Using criteria such as accessibility, airport connectivity, weather at the time of year you plan to travel, and then ease of access to travelers (language and/or political openness).
If that all sounds like a lot, don’t stress, I’ll break it down.
Accessibility & Public Transport
If planning a trip to another country feels stressful, driving and parking in another country are on a whole other level. While some countries have similar rules of the road, dealing with a car in most big European cities should be avoided at all costs.
Unlike the US, light rail is a staple for most urban European cities and is an inexpensive, effective way to get around. I would advise that you choose a place not only with a rail system but also stay somewhere near a station for that rail system (you can use Google Maps to help you with this). If big cities aren’t what you’re wanting to see, perhaps choose a town that’s still on the rail line but is smaller and outside of the urban hustle and bustle.
Airport Connectivity
This can have an impact on the cost of your trip, so it’s something to consider. Let’s use Paris as an example.
Did you know that Paris has two major airports? When searching for flights, you may be tempted to search the route between your closest airport and the largest airport near your destination (makes sense). Let’s say that route for your dates, returns a price of $900 round-trip, for a standard coach seat. Alternatively, you could search instead, from your home airport to the intended Country, rather than the specific airport, and find that flying into the smaller airport costs much less! Another alternative you might discover is an airport in an alternative city, a few hours away, which maybe half the cost. *Tip - Flights to Europe from the US, typically have you landing in the morning hours, which allows you time to then connect with a train. Alternatively, stay the night in your arrival city, and head out to your target city the following day!
Ease of Access
A benefit of being an American traveler is that there are relatively few hoops to jump through when we want to travel. However, starting in 2021, Americans will need to register with the ETIAS system and pay a small fee, in addition to obtaining a valid passport. This new system is not the same as a visa but will remain valid for three years, regardless of the number of trips to Europe, taken during that time.
Beyond the EU, some countries do require a visa, which can be as easy as submitting a form online, or as complex as sending written forms by courier, to an appropriate consulate. Be sure to check on requirements before booking your flights, by visiting the official government travel site, HERE.
Lastly, don’t worry too much about language barriers, particularly in large cities in Europe, speaking English is something that most service industry people can do, as it’s a trade language around the world. As a rule, I think it’s courteous to keep a cheat sheet on hand, for saying basic things, such as “please and thank you,” in the native language.
Other Resources
Often when I’m planning trips, or even formulating ideas for future trips, I watch travel shows, from well-known guides, like Rick Steve’s or Anthony Bourdain. YouTube can also be an awesome resource, which can allow you to see a place as experienced by other travelers.
Google Flights, is a wonderful tool for finding flight deals as I discussed above, and you can even set alerts for routes that you like, and it will send you an email if the prices go up or down.
Scott’s Cheap Flights is an awesome resource for finding out about flight deals in general, even with the free level membership. The only downside is that it’s not airport specific.
Accommodations
As a rule of thumb, I advise booking a traditional hotel for the day that you arrive in a new country, and also for the last day in a country. I’m never “at my best” after getting off of an overnight flight, so navigating to some random Airbnb and then figuring out the check-in process, is just more difficult than I want to deal with. Book a hotel, where even if the country you’re in is not English speaking, they’ll know how to help you get to a hotel in that city. The next day, when fully rested and showered, migrate to the more affordable Airbnb option. Likewise, being in a hotel the night before your departure can save you a headache on the day you leave. Example - Checkout is at noon, but you don’t need to be at the airport until 3 pm? No problem, it’s usually fine to leave your luggage with the hotel staff for a few hours. Alternatively, you have an early morning flight and don’t want to deal with getting to the train station with all your luggage, have someone at the hotel front desk, call you a taxi. The cost is worth the mitigation of travel day stresses.
Do you have questions or need advice? Comment below!
Porcelain, and Pastry in Portugal
One of the best value destinations in Europe, Portugal should be on every travelers list.
A Best Value Destination, Portugal should be on every traveler's list.
Porcelain tiles cover the buildings of Lisbon, bold colors, elaborate doors, artfully designed stone walkways, and colorful graffiti, make exploring Lisbon a pleasure for the eyes and senses.
From the moment you arrive in Lisbon, you’ll be enchanted with all things Portugal. The landscape is hilly, streets winding and views impressive. Music drifts from the doorways of small cafe’s and tucked away restaurants, “Fado” (the traditional music of Lisbon) is a beautiful, albeit sad sound, telling stories of hardship and loss, which only a place as rich with history, can do. This place will endear itself in your memory.
Cork, port, and pastry
The primary export of Portugal is cork, which you’ll see in all shapes and sizes, and a variety of uses, being sold at tourist shops.
Perhaps a cork Christmas tree ornament as a little memento?
Seafood is also in abundance here, sardines caught fresh and prepared in innumerable ways, are a food of choice, alongside a small pour of another popular export, port.
Perhaps a particular point of pride for the people of Lisbon is a small custard tart by the name of pastel de nata. The most popular place to experience one of these tasty treats is the famous Pastéis de Belém, located near the waterfront and monument to the Explorers.
Home away from home
While in Lisbon, we stayed at a charming little B&B, by the name of the “Lisbon Rooftop Guesthouse.” The proprietor was beyond accommodating, and despite our arrival not occurring until well after midnight (due to delay), he met us personally, to help get us settled upon our eventual arrival at the door.
Breakfast was provided each morning, and the personal attention was exceedingly helpful with not just planning our daily outings, but in general, setting us at ease in the space.
At less than $60 per night, I can’t imagine staying anywhere else, if I should ever return to Lisbon. A true value among accommodations.
So much to see, so little time…
It’s safe to say, that it takes more than two full days to truly see a city, and two days in Lisbon is an injustice. Striving to make the most of our limited time (cut short by an entire day, due to flight delays), we still managed to fall in love with the city.
Iberian Peninsula: Post 1 of 6